Well heck y'all makin it to dificuult , jus carry 3 or 4 , 8" bridge spikes and a 4 lb sledge , drive'm in and put yo tether above it , it won't slip down !😊
Took the idea from the JRB channel. My tether has a standard figure 8 loop. With the other end, you just take a bite/loop and put it through the figure 8 loop. With a carabiner, clip it behind the bite/loop, but over both strands of the figure 8 loop. Pull tight against the tree. Doesn't move. Fast, and easy to do in the dark.
@@NatureRN2586 it's surprisingly hard to describe, but simple to do. I'm right handed so I toss the figure 8 loop around the tree, right to left. So now the figure 8/loop is in my left hand, and the rest of tether in the right. On the right hand side, fold the rope into a loop, or make one. Stick this loop through the loop formed by the figure 8 in your left hand. Now clip the caribiner over BOTH ropes forming the figure 8, but BEHIND the one formed and manually inserted. In short put one loop through the other and clip the caribiner in the gap between the two. Ratchet it tight to the tree. Done. Most simple and effective approach I've found so far.
@@NatureRN2586 You can rapel from it easily, but retrieval will be hard I think. I only use it to tie in the tether so it doesn't drop or move around when at hunting height. Which has been a nuisance in the past. Since I tend to half line/SRT, I'll rapel on that rope/system.
Thanks for the info I will have to look into some of those. Any suggestions on what you like best for the application of saddle hunting and being light and compact
Thanks but I hate the metal clamps that came with these. I use the same method to tie them in as the wild edge steps. Works a 1000 times better. Maybe try looking them up you will probably like them better. Better made and less metal to add noise in the woods.
Im just getting into one sticking and it has just seemed too expensive! This makes it wayy more feaseable. Not everyone can afford $300 for repel equipment on top of everything else in saddle hunting. Thanks for the awesome video!
You are most welcome. I agree it is super expensive to start. However you can use what you have and once you get your rappel gear you will not be disappointed. It is really the fastest and safest option to get out of the tree. Just remember to check your equipment and always backup. If you have any suggestions on anything else you would like me to show or help with please feel free to reach out.
Cool rigging, but Talking about simple- Munter or super Munter or modified Munter with ONE carabiner, nothing but your rope and a carabiner, but I always have my ascender friction hitch above it for a back up, use the jrb 5-2-3 in soft bridge mode for climbing with a Garda hitch using two carabiners
I have tried the munter it works well but can be a little confusing in a pinch. I like to keep things as dumbed down as possible. Thanks for the tip and suggestion
Howdy Jacob, Speaking of massively cheap getting down safely systems...I came up with one about 25 years ago. Thank goodness I never needed it. I had tested it a couple of times and and put a friend with it as well. Worked every time until today. My son broke it. Jeez. What we discovered was that I and my friend had eased into it for the test, whereas my son, up in his treestand kinda bounced. Turns out the bounce overcame the safety aspect. Here's how it works.... My treestand safety harness comes in two pieces. The strap that goes around the tree and the short strap on the harness that hooks to the tree strap via a carabiner. So, well, IF you completely disconnect the two straps, and then hook one end of the harness strap onto the carabiner the regular way... and then you tie a knot into the end of the tree strap, and pass it through the carabiner on the other end and wrap it around exactly twice, using this rig you can let yourself down using only two finger if you wish. The two wraps act as a pretty darn good brake. It's just that darn simple. The trick is how to fix the gizmo so you can hang in it until you get ready to come down....and disengage somehow. Thought I had that whipped....and I did until today. You came up on my scream as I search for a getdown version 2.0. Plan B. (Never even heard of saddle systems until last week. I have always used a climber.) Norm
Hopefully this will help. Nothing too expensive but it sure has great implications. Like you I had hunted from a climber for years and about 3-4 years ago I started saddle hunting. A cheap rappel system is the best most effective way to get to the ground safely. Not hard to learn but I highly suggest practicing that way you know and understand what you are doing. Best of luck this season
Luv the HangFree stuff!!! I have the Ultimaider and it works great but it costs a little more. However I didn’t know what I wanted to do for aiders so ability to change configuration was awesome. Went with two step 16in step to step on 1st stick and single step 16in on 2nd stick. None on next 2 sticks. This was only aider that would allow me that much adjustment but now that I know what I need and want I ordered a new two step from hangfree and the amsteel platform hanger with the prusik. Best ever platform and stick attachments in my opinion.
Great video!!! I use 8mm oplux and not many options for mech descenders so I’ve tied a repel ring on with the JRB common jamming compact hitch and a munter to repel. This allows me to ascend and descend with that hitch as my backup so $5 for rope and secondary bridge and $20 for quality carabiner and up and down I go!!! Again great video!
Thanks for the comment. I also have tried the JRB method I just found to be to much when storing in my pouch if I ran a backpack it maybe what I use but I like being able to control without the extra weight on the end and really like just keeping a ring in my pack as a backup as there isn’t any extra weight. Just in case I drop something.
@@NatureRN2586 Ya I definitely get it for sure!!! I like the hitch so I can not use a tether and that’s the carabiner I use for my Munter. The JRB allows me to ascend and replaces an autoblock on the decent but it’s above the Munter. I use a secondary bridge like you but that’s where I hook up my Munter. I use my linesmen belt for my secondary bridge too so using something multiple times and taking away more stuff. Now if I was goin from scratch I’d probably buy Canyon CIV and a mad rock and carry a repel ring as a backup cuz I think that’s necessary evil and one most guys don’t think about. Shit happens when hunting and you don’t wanna get stuck at top of tree with no service and no way to get down if you do drop something. I already had 38ft of oplux so a total of $30 between 6ft of 6mm rope for the JRB, a repel ring and spare carabiner and I’m in business. All fits in a TrophyLine pouch I got with bonus points so all set up now. Again I think all saddle hunters and one stickers should watch a video like yours to have a backup in case of emergency!!!!
Thanks for reviewing our pack. I would like to make a suggestion. I noticed you we’re having issues removing the G hook while wearing it as a Fanny pack. There is a small tab on the G hook itself. If you file down that tab that issue will go away. This is something we’re looking to improve, unfortunately these changes take time. Thanks again.
@@NatureRN2586 All the way thru. If your going to shoot with distance between you and the camera then you need a wireless mic like a rodeII where the mic sits on your shirt. Now you could run a very long cord mic which is fine if your not moving around much. But if you plan on making more videos like this then a RODEII might be a good investment. Been using mine for over 5 years
I tried all that and now use a plastic clothes pin, the tether locker got tangled up with the pull down and I had a mess getting the rope out of the tree cuz the tether locker string was tangled up with the other ropes
Did you try the hook method it does away with the string. A lot better than a gear tie and cheaper than the innovation outdoors option. Only down fall is you have to unhook before going down.
Nice video. And as the owner of UltimAider I couldn’t agree with you more. The metal on our Aider is our biggest downside. That’s one reason we created the pack n play. It helps with packing the Aider up without hitting the buckles on the stick. Only thing you messed up on was the price. Lol. A 2 step ultimaider in under $40.
