As we journey through life we continue to learn everyday. This channel was created to share not only some of my experience but idea's to help with your own projects. I'm by no means an expert so please use the information provided for entertainment purposes only. I'm always open to doing things a different way but please be respectful in your comments and suggestions.
If you enjoy things like camping, cars, tractors, garages or pretty much anything outdoors then go ahead and subscribe as I’m sure something interesting to you will eventually get added.
RU-vid to me is just another hobby of mine however I’ve learned so much from others that share their content for free and I feel its just another way to pass along knowledge.
Do you move this thing around or is it stationary? I work with a buch of techs nd probably 20 of them have problems with the box cracking at the corners, and the rails bearings failing they move them daily though and probably are not very gentle with them
I’ve only moved it a few times. I definitely don’t have it loaded heavy like others I’m sure. Since I don’t use it everyday I hope it will last me a decent while and if anything breaks I’ll give an update.
Thanks! It took awhile to label but they come with lots of them when you buy them. I was only hesitant because they are plastic but I can pick up the whole rail of deep impact sockets and still feel sturdy. It does flex a little but definitely doesn’t feel like it will break.
If you lower the tail wheel a notch or 2 and get it riding on the ground while setting the height with the front it will help. Your front should be about 1" lower than the rear. It will cut and discharge easier and not load up near as much.
I have this video where I cleared out some brush and small stumps. I need to use it more though as it really is a great attachment. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iIbetUO8YO8.htmlsi=6XB5vP5pI9I2lam0
Appreciate the compliment. I’m in NE Ohio. We do have a lot of Amish builders here which can be a little cheaper but still have to watch as not all are quality builders.
@@journeys-with-joe Pioneer Pole Barn is out of Pa and uses Amish builders. My quote for a 30X40 with garage doors, with a 12'X40 lean-to, no concrete, no insulation, no site prep, $58K
Still working great! It ran everyday this past winter and made a huge difference in moving the heat. Right now I only turn it on when needed but works every time and really makes it comfortable when it’s hot out and I’m in the garage working. No regrets on the purchase or cost. Appreciate you asking and thanks for checking out the video!
My garage build is in progress(SE Ohio) it's a 24x36x15, 8x24 loft, all metal with wainscoting a 20x24 pad out front and a 120' long driveway. They're doing everything dirt work included plus no access for a concrete truck $49k didn't seem too bad to me.
Yes the dealer fixed but it took awhile. I have the fix detailed in another video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-072a22yndz8.htmlsi=mOErT5obynk_JvJ7
It’s been a few years ago since I bought the grapple but it was around $2000 then. I’m sure they are a bit more now. Definitely a cool attachment that I need to use more often.
Excellent install! I'm getting ready to install the same heater. Is there a requirement for the horizontal vent pipe to be a certain amount of feet below the eaves on the outside? I have the same eaves/building as you. No windows or openings nearby. Thanks!
Thanks appreciate the comment. The directions say vent termination must be 4’ below or 4’ horizontal from any soffit vent. Mine is a little over 3’ which is as far as I could get away. I think the main point is to keep the flue gasses from being drawn into the soffit vent. I put a CO2 detector in the attic for a little while and never had any problems.
@@journeys-with-joe that’s what I was thinking too. I’m the same in that I can’t quite get 4 feet from it. My eaves/soffits do not vent inside the building so I assumed there’s no issue. My plumber wants everything inspected after they do the gas line so I’d hate for the inspector to get picky about this when I’ve already cut a hole in the wall for thimble/vent 😂. I’m thinking of just having the plumber run the gas line and cap it, then I’ll install the heater afterward
Hey there Joe, nice timing on this video, My interior metal is getting finished up this week and looking really nice. Next week I will be having the epoxy floor coating done, taking them all week to complete. Take care and don't work too hard!
That’s awesome! I bet it’s starting to look a lot different inside now. Not too long and you”ll get to move in! Appreciate you checking in and giving me an update.
Looking really nice Joe! I'm still stringing wire throughout the shop, also running pex for my water and air couplings. I got four out of the six air conditioners (mini splits) hung. Hopefully they can get the ceiling installed next week. Take care and don't work too hard!
Sounds like your getting things done! It takes time but you’ll get there. Weather is starting to warm up here so on to some outdoor projects for me! Thanks for the kind words and update on your side.
Garage is 34x50 with 14’ ceilings which you have to account for when heating. This past winter I was working in it a lot finishing the interior out and in the worst month in Ohio it may have added $20 to my bill. I kept it around 56-58 when out working in it and around 45 at night. Thanks for checking out the video!
Looking very nice Joe, good idea to lay down some plastic on the floor before painting all the panels and really nice to have some help! Those adjustable electrical boxes are very nice, I'll have to look into those. I got my garage doors installed the past couple of days and man are they nice and really quiet! I also got my interior lumbar package delivered today so I'll be starting on that tomorrow. Take care and don't work too hard!
Sounds like your garage is coming together nicely! You’ll love it once you get the interior done. As you saw I recruited a good friend to not only help me pick up the panels at the store but he helped paint this round and also another round so saved a ton of time. Thanks for checking out the video and best wishes as you work on finishing yours!
You can find them on Amazon by searching Lithonia Lighting CPHB 15LM MVOLT 40K Compact PRO LED Bay Light, High Bay, 15000 Lumens, 4000K Light. No issues at all with them. Great even light that isn’t blinding.
You did things right we learn as we go in life in time you will look back and see and glad you did it . Material is very expensive now but in the end you have a nice building . 😊
Thank you! I actually don’t know since when I had the shell of the building built it was all part of a package. I didn’t think it was that bad honestly and hope to do a video on all the material costs once I’m done. I do know buying from a local metal former saves me hundreds vs buying from a big box store.
It's looking really nice Joe! I just got the spray foam completed on my shop, now time for a real good cleaning before I start installing the steel, as I have to install all the gerts first.
Lots of work ahead of you but sounds like you’re on your way. The spray foam is very nice just too much $$ for my budget. You’ll love it when it’s all done though.
I probably didn’t mention it much but no I don’t have a vapor barrier between ceiling trusses and steel. Based on everything I’ve found it’s not required or recommended in my climate zone and blown fiberglass doesn’t chemically react with the steel so no issues there either. I have been in the attic a few times this winter and no moisture or condensation issues even when digging out some insulation when I installed the ceiling fan wood bracing it was completely dry. I do have dripstop on the roof metal. Hope this helps!
I just finished my metal ceiling and the insulator guy who is gonna blow in the attic said that it’s not required in my area as well. Interesting how requirements are different. I’m in NE WA state. Thanks for your reply Joe!
Those work well. You should now look into Snirt Stopper weather stripping to complete the seal. Great combination. I’m not affiliated with either company but it’s what I have done and together it really stopped all the air infiltration ( and light) coming in from around my doors
I’ve heard of Snirt Stopper but not many reviews on how well they work. I’ll definitely have to look into them as well based on your experience. Appreciate the comment!
Adjusting the rails is certainly an option if they are just misaligned. Mine were not and the springs keep everything from binding which is very important for a shaft driven opener. My 12’ opening isn’t perfectly plumb either which I’m sure is why the rails can’t be perfectly aligned either. Thanks for checking out the video!
I say your furnace is doing a pretty good job in low digit temperatures. The garage door is an issue with the draft, I have one 12x12 overhead door and although I've minimized the air flow there's still a little there. I have a 30x80 pole barn with a 14ft ceiling and on a 15-20 degree day two 36,000 BTU mini-splits keeps it at 60 degrees with no problem which is the temperature I like. Most of the time I shut one off and the building will stay at 55 degrees. Insulation is a big factor of course.
It’s a little warmer now in the mid 20’s which is more common for winter in my area and it will keep it at 60 no problem and runs every 20min or so. Yours is a bit bigger building but sounds like you’ve done your homework on insulation and heating as well. Thanks for checking out the video!
