If you tighten the impeller by hand you risk tightening it too much and stalling the pump. When that happens the pump overheats and the thermal protector kicks in. After you tighten rotate the impeller and make sure the rotor rotates freely.
I just replaced my pump motor and kinda forgot where that wear-ring was positioned; I guessed where it went, almost counting on taking it all back apart, but after watching your excellent video I know I got it right! Thank you for helping me verify the location of that ring. You did a great job on this video, and I really appreciate being able to view it. Sincerely, and with Best Regards, Dave Russell.
#1thning missed ..... large o ring goes in wide ,not flat will leak and you have to do it all over again That and you will curse like a sailor if you try to do this in the area of the filter. I guess I could have pulled the power off but I like to live on the edge of 240v.hahahab
You didn't even show us how to replace the large seal, I've been trying to replace that large seal on the pump housing and it keeps falling out of the square Grover I've been using silicone lube
The impeller removes easily once one knows how. You simply need to grasp the gold colored weighted flywheel under the motor connection housing with a vice grips, or other wrench. My impeller came off quite easy with this small resistance. Remember to have the ceramic portion of the inner seal facing out. And take some time to clean the copper part of the inner housing to allow that inner seal to seat cleanly.
This is the old version of the PB4-60 as it has straight radial reinforcement ribs on the Volute. The new version has curved radial reinforcement ribs on the Volute. The seal is also different with a different diameter. The old version uses the PS-1000 from U.S. Seal.
Removing impeller in reality is probably much harder. You will probably need a strap wrench. Locking the hub on the motor is also harder than shown. 12mm or 7/16 wrench has to be inserted under start switch on motor which is tricky. Maybe you could show that stuff in detail so people don't get surprised and frustrated when the impeller does not just come off as easily as you show.
Mine came off by hand, the impeller that is, but I did remove the capacitor hold down to make room for the 7/16 wrench. But spanner is recommended and I was worried I might need one. Also my impeller was worn out pretty bad, best suggestion to buy a new one.
Great video, unfortunately the pumps are installed in some Godawful places and it's a pain to work on them, like mine lol Have to be a contortionist to get the wiring landed. But, this is a great pump and I enjoy rebuilding mine to save some time and $$$. Have to be careful when you order parts online to make sure you get OEM Hayward parts. Lot's of 3rd party parts that are garbage.
how do you secure the shaft? taking channel locks to the odd thing in the back? what tool should you use to turn the impellor? it wont come off using bare hands
Amount of water in a cubic ft. But majority of people, including books by pool manufacturers round up, using 7.5. Rectangular (not square) pool. 16x32 3.5 shallow 8 deep end 16×32×5.75×7.5= 22080
you dont want to touch the ceramic part on seal and you can use a 1 inch coupler to bang it out. most diyer wont know to bang so lightly and can damage the plat every easily these dont always come out so easily .
There was no O-RING replacement in this video..... it was assembled without even the old one on the shaft..... & thus will leak like Niagra Falls..... This video needs to be taken down and corrected.....
Worked like a champ sir and thank you. You also helped me identify that the previous owner did not have mounting bracket as you've shown. Surely it caused diffuser to be canted which caused the meltdown and the reason I had to replace all housing components.
Hi, i have same model pump and have run in to an issue. When i screw the diffuser down my impeller can no longer move. Any ideas what can cause this? All new OEM parts going on being installed. Thank you
Thanks for the demo -- as I have a Super2 that needs some attention. Although this is a bit long in the tooth now, I'm wondering if you'd still be monitoring this for DIYers like me to bug you. You make the impeller removal look SO EASY - I suppose it's all in the wrist? For one thing, I can't put a wrench on the other end of the shaft - it's just a slot for a size LARGE screwdriver - and a screwdriver is one of the least efficient tools one can use: almost NO leverage! So I tried my impact driver with the biggest straight screwdriver bit I could find, but that would rather tear up the slot in the shaft than break loose from the impeller! So my question goes to the handy-dandy special tool you showed at the beginning of your video. Is there likely a place hidden somewhere where I could insert such a thing, if I had one, to hold the shaft??? (Don't you sell rebuild kits for these pumps? Mine's 14 years old, and this is the first time I've had to open it up, surprisingly!)
Thank you for all your help. As a woman things can be difficult. Your guidance allowed me to replace my seal with very little/no problems. Thumbs up!!!!
I noticed you did not use the Pentair Seal Plate Insert Sta-Rite (C3-186). I took apart my pump (looks the same as your in this video) and my pump does not have this part either. However, I am confused because when I look at the schematic for this pump it is in fact there. Please confirm if this part is needed or not. Thanks and be well.
