Welcome to Black Lab Garage…where being poor is nothing to be ashamed of, it’s just unhandy as hell lol. We work on a little bit of everything here so stay tuned! You can email me at blacklabgarage@gmail.com. Follow us on Instagram at instagram.com/blg_2023/
Ported the correct way too. Biased the cylinder side of the port. Narrowing and shaping the valve guide boss:) Raising the port just a bit. Staying off the floor You got to watch Andy Wood Leaning about (Area Ruling) Working in the combustion chamber. De shrouded the valves. Flow ball technique You did good man you did good:)
Nope…that’s. Ferguson TO-30. Look at the engine. It’s overhead valve and the distributor is on the left side of the engine. Not to mention you can see the spark plugs on the left side of the engine
@@DanNichols-e4g well yes and no. The 1978 and 1979 Bronco are basically an F-150 from the doors forward so sheet metal and stuff will interchange. You have to be careful when it comes to the front axle and steering because there was some changes made thru the years. The front axle had king pins until 1977 which is when they went to ball joints. Then in the steering they had the inverted T and inverted Y steering systems. You can interchange them but you have to have the whole steering setup and swap it. Things like that is where you have to be careful on trying to interchange parts between the 1973-1979 trucks.
doesnt look like at all like my 76 F150? where the rag joint?BUT my truck does wander quite a bit AND no signal lights whatso-ever so maybe mine is gone?maybe thats why i already have a fancy smaller steering wheel, the previous owner was trying to fix something and stuck it on while he was at it OR the new steering wheel install caused the signal lights to fail?
@@WilliamMunny-d8s most of the time changing to an aftermarket wheel will cause the turn signal cancel to not work but I haven’t heard of it causing the electrical part of it to not work but they could have damaged something installing it I suppose. I had removed the rag joint from the steering shaft when I did this video
At 3.20 comment. the p.t.o. shaft looks wonky but you know that. Uni joints rooted or bent tube. it ate the weeds and look likes a alien space vessel!!!
@@MsKatjie it may have a slight bow to it. Which I think part of that jumping is caused by the angle that the front pto has to run at. Look at the video at 2:20 and you can see the angle the front pto has to run at. But the carrier bearing yoke is adjusted as far down as it can go
Great video. Interesting equipment. Also Would like to see a video on adjusting upper and lower stops on mf-35 hudraulics using the nut on back of the hyd pump as per Manual not One on YT i can find lots of Pull and replace or top lid but nothing on setting up the stops on the hydra levers
@@bamadave6324 that nut adjust the movement of the control valve if needed. The actual upper stop is controlled by the quadrant stop on the lift quadrant. By not setting it properly is how so many people bust their lift covers. I can make a video of that
Hello! Could you do a video on how to swap your front brake calipers from a 78-79 F150 to the Thunderbird calipers? And also what parts are needed. Love your videos. Very helpful and informative.
Your videos have helped me tremendously on my 1979 Bronco. The series on the Dana 44 axle seals, porting 460 heads, and now this. I have a Redhead steering box, a Borgeson shaft, new rag joint and will be picking up that bearing from JBG. I too have bought a lot of parts from JBG. Thanks again. Appreciate you brother.
@@mikecarignan7002 a 1985 model 460 would still have the retarded timing set and the low compression pistons. You would be amazed at how much difference the straight up timing set by itself will make. Get the compression up to 9:1 plus a straight up timing set and it becomes a totally different engine. Plus you get better fuel economy. The 352 is a good engine. Far better than the 360 that replaced it in the trucks. People think that I don’t like the FE engines but that’s not true. I even built a 390 and put in my 1974 F-350 and it was a great engine and I got 13mpg out of a ton flat bed dually. But the 385 series engines (429/460) are much cheaper to build and you get more cubic inches which equals more power cheaper than you can building the FE engines.
Did all of this to my truck back in December. I took the column out since its tilt and went through the tilt U joint as well. All 3 bearings replaced. The lower bearing on mine was plastic but had a sealed bearing in the housing and I think if I put gravel from my driveway in it, it would have been smoother. My tilt U joint was slightly loose but it comes apart with just a single bolt and nut so I cleaned and greased it and reset the tension, been great ever since. Definitely way more than worth the effort!
@@MattsRageFitGarage usually the tilt columns are shot. Mostly cause people tend to pull themselves up into the truck by the steering wheel. I had a friend that had one and every time you shut the door the steering wheel would fall down😂
@BlackLabGarage ,I have a few questions, 1, my wife's 79 Bronco, it's a automatic, C6, What's the best kit for, Pan seal 🦭 n filter?? 2.on my 78 Bronco, iam putting in the 460, it's a manual NP435 4 speed, u know the tork Is specs on the manual fly wheel? 3. On pilot bushing on 460, which in u option is better? A solid bushing or the ones that have the pin type Bearing ??
@@JasonBackes I imagine you are using a 390 flywheel to install the 460 in the bronco? If so the flywheel to crankshaft is 75-85ft lbs. the pressure plate bolts are 25ft lbs. I know when you look online like Summit Racings torque chart says 35ft lbs for the pressure plate bolts. Those pressure plate bolts are 5/16” bolts and they are not grade 8 bolts from Ford. If you try to torque them to 35ft lbs they will snap. ARP does make a replacement bolt for the special Ford bolts. Their bolts might take 35ft lbs but the factory Ford bolts will not. Of course I use loctite on both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I have used the the needle bearing pilot bearings and the bronze bushing type pilot bearing and both work well. The bronze bushing will take more abuse and is better if your input shaft is not perfect where it goes in the pilot bearing. Generally I use the bronze bushing on trucks and needle bearings in cars. Now if you use the bronze bushing before you install it, soak it in engine oil for 12-24 hours. Ford put out a technical bulletin about that. They said those bushings would dry out some from sitting on the shelves for long periods of time. That’s why they recommended soaking the bushing in oil before installing it.
@@JasonBackes as far as the transmission filter Wix makes a good one. The main thing is get one that uses a cork rubber composite gasket. The pure cork gaskets always end up leaking after a while.
Jason ❤ here, another great video brother, I've always thought alot of Steering was from that rag joint also , what do you think ? about adjusting the / My uncle in iowa on his 2wd F100 , would losen top nut n rotate top worms screw on top of the gearing box, just a little. He had rebuild the upper n lower ball joints n replaced tie rod end, if still issues he would miss with worm gear ⚙️ on box, but in the 80s not alot of farmers replaced rag joint, the world tightn the bolts a little , but lol your talking old cheap farming Folks that live through the depression and more to.They wouldn't spend a dollar on anything. I was raised up with that generation . They Would even use old engine oil 🛢. Use old newspaper n old coffee ☕️ can to Strain and clean up the oil . For, Is house door hinges ect ,when the Iowa state snow Plows would come out and spread all the salt. They Woodbrush that old oil on the underside of their trucks to keep them from resting out. I rember seeing 👀 Fairly new cars only about five years old with rust holes them, now I live-in Kansas not alot of snow lol.😅keep the videos coming, yo always try to talk to other about u n your channel. GOD BLESS YOU 🙌, JASON, WICHITA KANSAS.
@@JasonBackes all that screw on the steering box does is tighten the mesh up between the gears in the steering box. Tighten it too much and your steering box will start binding up
@@JasonBackes as far as the rag joint, I’ve driven these trucks and broncos with everything from 31x10.50-15’s to 40x17.50-15 tires on them with the stock tag joint and I’ve have no problems with them. Which I always kept a good rag joint installed on them. Sure a solid Borgeson would be better if you can afford it but I haven’t had any problems with the stock rag joints.
Hello Danny Ray, Very interesting video. Never knew of that rope trick. Very cool. Would love a sliding back window on my 2015 F-150. Gonna do a little research now. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Michigan.
@@robertclymer6948 I’m pretty sure those model trucks the back glass is glued in with urethane. I haven’t changed a back glass in them but I’m pretty sure they are glued in with urethane and would have to be cut out and then the new one glued back in with urethane
@@BlackLabGarage depends on the setup man I have a 460 efi with obd1 and that shits garbage but I’m running a torque storm supercharger and I’m going to try Holley’s super sniper.
@@TheRossillini multiport fuel injection will always be better than throttle bottle fuel injection. My biggest gripe with aftermarket fuel injection is it takes very little to make it go haywire or not run at all. But you don’t hear that much about it on here. It’s only the success stories that you hear about mostly on here. But what are you really gaining with aftermarket fuel injection? Fuel economy? The difference between a properly sized and tuned carb and aftermarket fuel injection would be negligible and could go in favor of either one on a given day. One of the FE groups that I’m in, some of them running aftermarket EFI can’t get the fuel mileage I have with a carb. You can let the EFI control the distributor but I recurve my distributors and adjust the vacuum advance so there isn’t a big advantage there either? I just don’t see where there is a $2,000 advantage of aftermarket EFI over a properly set up carbureted engine.
@@MattsRageFitGarage I hate to hear you was sick. Feeling better now? When I go to swap the 460 into my white F-350 I’ll have to rebuild the NP435 transmission. The second gear synchronizers are going bad
@@BlackLabGarage Yeah I feel better but still low on energy. I was doing some drywall work and came into some mold, started coughing real bad from it, tore the drywall out and mixed up bleach and water to treat the mold and the fumes took me out, but I think I was already getting sick. Pretty sure it was that new rona variant, but I got a bit of a chemical burn down to my lungs with it as well. I had a better time doing the C6 than finishing the new engine lol.
@@MattsRageFitGarage glad you’re feeling better now. They was actually telling us at work about a woman who died just from bleach fumes! Not counting the mold and everything else you breathed in but bleach fumes themselves can kill you apparently
@@BlackLabGarage Yeah I wasn't around the bleach that much after I sprayed it but man is sure is nasty. I wound up losing my smell and taste for most of that week and I gotta say standing over the parts washer washing everything especially the transmission parts wasn't bad, throat was sore like swallowing razor blades for about 5 days though.
@@MattsRageFitGarage definitely sounds like you had the Rona! That was the worst thing when I had it was the sore throat. I’ve never in my life had a sore throat that hurt that bad!
@@user-vl6yl2hk9n it’s a slow go trying to do everything right as I go. Like pull the engine and install the floor pans. Modify the steering shaft, etc…before I can set the 460 in
I just bought the same loader. I need to see what the brackets look like that attach the loader to the bottom of the rear axel. I might have to fabricate them. My loader is a F-32.
@@MrjackieG I had to fabricate mine as well. I just used steel tubing that fit over the ends of the loader frame and welded it to angle iron that attaches under the axles where the stabilizer bars would normally attach under the axles
I have used J-B weld on my car radiators in the past. It works. But if that's too runny, there's the JB weld steel stick. Just take a piece of that and mush it up in your fingers and stick it on the radiator like you're sticking chewing gum on it.
@@BlackLabGarage it ain't that hot here in the UK. So far we have had a very wet summer. The temperature has been quite low for the time of year. The land is very wet also. A lot of grassland as gone to seed. So feed won't be as good this year.
@@danthurman9076 I said $1000 in hay equipment. I didn’t count the tractor because a lot of people have a tractor and bush hog that they keep their fields mowed with but no hay equipment because they’ve been told they need a big hp tractor to bale hay. According to Vermeer which is who built that baler you need 35hp to operate it. The mower and rake will run fine with 25hp
@@dalepete2854 Thank You for the kind words and your subscription! I have actually started a second channel that will have more farming stuff on it than this one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rgJ0c5dhia0.htmlsi=d2jEg5GLPD3k9MGD
@@itllrun6030 I’ve found that’s the best way to work on a dentside Ford is to pull the radiator out and stand between the motor and radiator support. Only downside is the water pump snout is in your belly button😂
@@BlackLabGarage ever damned time somebody tries to tell you video maker something you try to shit on it like you know everything about everything I've forgotten more about fe engine than you'll know
@@paulpruitt2776 I never said it wasn’t a spacer and seal. I was just saying it also keeps the oil off the valve stems and redirects it to the oil returns
I’m 81 and the only farm I remember never had any tractors , just work horses! I remember riding up on the hay wagon while the grown up’s threw the hay up with pitch forks . That was in Indiana around the St. Mienrad ,Fulda area🙂 A lot of German folks around there.
@@user-py3ex2ym9f they are just too handy and too good of a tractor to let go. They can do the jobs of smaller tractors but also do the jobs of bigger tractors
I'm trying to do the same thing. I have the same rake as you have but would like to find an old square bailer. I think I'm not that far from you. I"m in east Tn.
@@fgpriceinc there are still lots of square balers out there. I have six square balers😂. I bought one last year at an auction for $75. I bought a nice Massey Ferguson #9 for $400