It's taken me eight years to find this video.. The series is very easy to understand and the code solves a number of problems I was having with Arduino MIDI. I have been using an Allen Heath ZEDR-16 that has excellent MIDI capability - or did until the Firewire board died and A&H have no stock. I need to build a 16 fader channel with 32 buttons. I reckon I can add a routine to flash an LED on detecting MIDI activity, but extending the buttons to 24 by adding another mux is probably beyond me. Maybe I can build two of these with 16 buttons, set them to different MIDI channels and have the DAW buttons respond to the different incoming channels.
I followed your great step-by-step process to get a quote on my board that I built in Fusion 360. All of the part orientations were wrong, despite being correct in the F360 library and board layout. The 5 boards were cheap at about 7 Euros but assembly had a lot of fees, bumping from Economical to Standard due to the ESP32 module, and then the parts for a total of 137 euros. And they didn't have stock on 3 connectors that I selected from the LCSC catalog... I've decided to order the raw parts for 2 units, wherever I can find them, and have JLCPCB just fabricate the boards. At this point, it's the first go at a brand new design so I'm sure it's full of errors! When I finalize it I might order 5 assembled.
Amazing project !!! i don't find the code 1.4 on your website (only the 1.2 is available). Could you please share the code and the PCB conception file? you don't talk about the mux lib in your video, this is works with MCD74HC4067 also?
I want to make an Arduino midi conyroller like this. There are 2 GM sound modules like vs1053 or MT 32, but the second one is specifically for drums/percussion, Cistom Sound for playing back Midi songs. The sound module uses Channel 10 custom Midi sampler, the other uses GM Synth vs. 1053 controller uses Arduino. mega, esp32, or rp2040 pico which has 2 serial pins for these 2 midi and 2 midi out can you add code to the midi filter that you made thanks in advance best wishes tedy
Following @edipciftic, your project is really beautiful and really perfectly functional... this is exactly what I was looking for... it would be great for me when xy pad is added to it....
Teacher: whoa who are you and how did you get here!??? Me: I am the future version of that pesky little stinky child right there. (Points to child me) Teacher: okay I’m calling the cops, but first, since you actually look like him, I will entertain this… why are you here from the future??? Me: to tell you that in the future I learned math! Teacher: (laughs) okay well you’re definitely not helping your case cause that would be impossible! One last chance, who taught you math? Some crazy mathematician like Terence Tao?!!! Me: nope!!!! My pal Dave. Teacher: (dials 911)
You can find the code in the blog post linked in the video description. The code is designed to be custom configured for your needs. I did a live stream where I build this from start to finish - you can find it HERE > ru-vid.comellhUszaMZs?si=vMERkbTmbXUFdkV6
I am under the impression you can only read one pot at a time with a mux. This means you can't turn two pots at the same time and get them to send data. Is this correct?
This is great but i feel like all the steps you take are unneccesary.. i probably would just use photoshop and pick mm as unit of measure and design the entire thing in one step.. then import to kicad.. all those hole and alignment things are easily accomplished and redundant.. just a perspective from a graphic designer engineer.. but great video and great idea
I have sometimes very special questions about vst drumming. And there is a guy who created great patches and fixes for several DAWs but he only sells them. You have to book a Zoom meeting and he will set it up and explain it to you etc. Which is great. But also expensive. I don't know... is this an option? If not for a single person than for a small bunch of interested guys. Kind of a workshop, paid of course. For me, the biggest problem is not coding or electronics! It's the stupid case. I need a 4 to 5 slider midi fader box....but how to build that case, especially the slits for the faders. 😢
OMG FINALLY!!!!! I knew it had to be this easy, but I keep running into vids and tutorials that pile on the complexity. This is EXACTLY what I need to build a set of bass pedals for my Hammond XK-3. I love that I can just set the pin number, command, note, channel, and debounce IN ONE PLACE :-O I owe you a beer...or a coffee...or even a steak...whatever you want :-)
Would all this muxing work with FSRs? and what about latency? Is it possible to avoid it and have real time readings and conversion to midi? I am planning on building fsr matrix with around 64 inputs, converting it to midi. So far i've bought arduino and make 5 of fsr work on analog inputs. Struggled as it is my first project ever, but it was a good day!
This worked for me at first, when I dropped it down to 54%. But now the noise is back and I need to drop it to 9% to get rid of the hiss, and I can't compensate for that on the board without peaking. Any help?
Absolutely mint face plates and a supremely comprehensive tutorial but I have to wonder why the process is so convoluted as face plates have been around as long as the stuff behind the face plate.
A few questions regarding the front panel artwork. I tried this process for a guitar pedal I’m building and noticed that the lamination is lifting up around the holes for potentiometers and other components. How do you prevent that from happening? Could it be due to the fact that I was using regular printer paper and not matte photo paper like you did? Cheers!
I've been trying to build mine, with two knobs, nine phaders, a 12-way switch-turned-potentiometer as a channel selector and a button switch to invert the phaders. I failed miserably! The readings are chaotic, values are inconsistent and the invert button doesn't work. I already revised the wiring and I can't solve it. I wasted time and money. Maybe I'm not cut out for electronics.
So does the Tx have to be 5V? Could it be, say, 3V and work? I was thinking about using an ATtiny for MIDI out (@ ~3V) - I guess I'd only need one output pin for control? Excellent video, thx so much!
I've been using the iOS app "MIDI Link Sync". which works similarly to the app you are suggesting. But I think the app is no longer available. This is great! Do you know if you can sync link to a MIDI clock also? Thing I loved about the older app is that I could use my hardware sequencer as a master clock which is awesome.
For iOS users: this app is sadly for Android only. On iOS, you can use a similar app called “Link to midi”, but in my experience the stability is not great.
Hey man, I laughed so hard ! It's like you were sitting next to me as I failed with the steel wool. Many thanks for the tutorial. My aluminum bracket turned out exactly as I imagined. Thanks again !!😂
Hi again Dave. Another question - having built the thing, have you interfaced it to a DAW or any music program? I've got all the right MIDI data, but not being recognised by my DAW. Any thoughts?
just curious. What is the overhead time in case I grow 64 pairs of fingers and twiddle all of them at once? ;-) also, how difficult would it be to have some sort of 'learning patterns of behaviour' algorithms built-on in order to match certain POB so the individual pot has the appearance of being there all the time by the controlee? Thanks!
@@NotesAndVolts does that mean that if I'd substitute the pots with pressure sensitive resistors I'd have a 64 key keyboard with velocity and aftertouch capability? that would be something!
