I started commuting by bike after medical issues left me unable to drive, temporarily. I didn't want to depend on family and friends or public transportation. I now ebike about 350 miles a month and found that I prefer it over driving, although, there is an ugly side. I'm trying to promote ebiking and show some of my bikes and gear but also my commute and what happens.
I got mine on 07 26 2024. I am having problem after problem. It's currently stuck on the side of the road with error code 30. Bike won't move. Dealing with Eahora is amazing! They are giving me the run around.
@@simonjames3190 This was my first Eahora but I have read some reddit threads about bad customer service, so I’m not surprised. It’s unfortunate because I, personally feel like customer service can make or break whether I’ll get another bike from a company.
I had originally ordered a Nireeka Mega, waited 3 months and decided to cancel that order. During that time, I had been looking at the Luna and it had gone out of stock and back into stock at least once, so it's hard to say. I suspect they are just out of stock because it's summer and everyone is out.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi an yet you didn't use them. I feel you're a mouthpiece for sales without any mechanical knowledge as a bike user from that video. Anyone with quality tools don't just use the wrenches that come with the bike. After you said that, I knew u were a phoney
@@coryschlegel5705 This was just to show how to put the bike tire on because their instructions suck. It doesn't in, any way imply that I like the bike. I haven't done my review, yet.
@@epicgametrailer1760 I’m going to do a review but wanted to put some miles on it and try different settings. In the review, I will go through the best that I’ve found.
Great video due to your videos. I recently did well today getting my worrior today. But I do have questions about battery charging dose, and don't 🔥 is a concern that you actually own this bike. How should I charge it? Beautiful bike, thanks
Charging depends on your use case. Generally speaking, if you are not going to use it for a while, leave the battery about 70% charged. If you are using it every day you can charge it higher. Charging a battery to 100% shortens its life. I like to take my battery out of the bike to charge it, except when I'm at work. There I just move it into a corner and leave it plugged into the wall.
Nice video. I'm having troubles installing a bar end mirror on mine, the bolt just spins and the end cap is still stuck in pretty solid. Even without that, I have to know how to remove my throttle to replace it with one EAhora will be sending me. Any chance on getting some tips or a video on how to remove the end caps?
Possibly, but I'm not fond of bar end mirrors so it'd probably just be a "how to take of the end cap," video. I prefer under bar mirrors because they are less likely to be broken by cars or if the bike falls, are easier to install, and I feel like I can see better with them.
I suspect it is similar to a motorcycle throttle and end cap. Maybe look for a video on installing bar end mirror on motorcycles and see if they are similar. I know there are many out there, already and they might give you an idea of what is going wrong. It will be a few days before I would have a chance to look at it.
Hey man, I love your videos. I just liked and subscribed! Could you help me? I have a problem with mine. When I turn it on, it stays stuck on the key/card logo... I tried everything (touching the key/card over the display and pretty much on the whole bike)! Then I managed to turn it on using the Key Disp phone application (by connecting it to Bluetooth & pressing the headlight button in the app) it will turn on & work, BUT then I can't power it off even by holding the on/off button... It stays stuck on the same key disp logo and can only turn it off by removing the battery... May I please get some help to understand if I'm doing it the wrong way, or is it simply a malfunction of some kind? (Maybe with the card/key, key display screen, or the controller... ?) Thanks a lot in advance!
I don't wear a full face or dirt bike helmet so I keep the camera on my chest. That's why I try to direct the camera where it can get the front screen plus front view. It's mostly about the bike's performance and not what I'm seeing, anyway.
Thank you so much for this video! Received mine today! Wish I would have searched for it earlier today - would have saved myself time and frustration. Only thing with mine that I didnt realize was the caliber for the disk break came with a plastic tab inserted (brake spacer?) - so I could not figure out why I could not slide it in. Once I removed - worked just like you demonstrated. Cheers!
@@bestead I removed it earlier. It didn’t dawn on me to put that in the video until after I had already posted it. I did put it in the description but most people don’t look at the description.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi heck you can speed away from any bike path security staff with those duel motors, and then you can flip'em the bird as you leave them in your dust trail.lol
@@billstock3663 yeah, there’s no security where I ride. Just unhoused people, families and hardcore street riders. It’s actually quite entertaining but I have to be careful to not run over the homeless people sleeping in the middle of the trail 🤷♂️.
@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi yeah it's very unfortunate that there are so many homeless people now. once upon a time I remember thinking the U.S was a terrible place to live because of the many homeless but even where I live in Canada there are also so many homeless. I've had my sights set on a duel motor ebike and it has come down to between the Boombike Zeegr S1 and the Freesky that you have,the Freesky 8s approximately $450 more expensive than the Zeegr however I prefer the Freesky's hidden battery arrangement compared 5o the exposed battery on the Zeegr. I have a tough choice to make within the next couple of days. Thanks for doing a review on your bike btw.
I think I'm going to get a cheap mount meant for a different model display and try to make it fit or try to 3d model it and 3d print it. I haven't decided. I refuse to buy a new one when the display works perfectly.
I did that at 22:50. First, I removed and replaced the battery and then checked all of the the connections. When I got home; I confirmed the battery's charge. I removed the motor cover and checked all of the internal connections. Removed the battery and cover and checked those connections, too. Although, that isn't in the video.
I'm sorry you got hit but I'm still seeing e bike reviews that people are going 15 to 30 plus through stop signs when you get your ass hit you might think about slowing down before going through not knocking your ebike review people are cracking down on ebikes and the more they see reviewers blow through stop signs the harder they will try cracking down on ebikes
My new X2 broke down too. I made a popular video about it. Since owning one I have learned a lot. They came with a faulty chrome battery turn off switch. I had to rewire the battery so the switch wires were disconnected. That switch is only so you can turn off the battery from losing charge for long time storage. Or you can just take the battery out when storing. Luna was helpful with support without too much delay. I actually wanted to see if I can convert mine to 60 volts. I think it's just a matter of rewiring the battery and getting the controller. But then again, I do like the performance of my X2 with ludicrous as it is. If you like to pedal like me, you'll have a blast with it. You'll be able to haul ass.
Apparently the switch was causing a lot of problems. Mine came with a sticker noting that it wasn’t connected. I have gotten to go 32ish, throttle only and pedaling, but I have kept it in trail mode. I have had problems with the heat causing it to restrict power fairly quickly into rides.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi I had tested the limits myself on mine. But after that I just ride it like it is supposed to be ridden. It doesn't get hot or tear up the drive-train any longer. I want to say that there is a misconception sometimes related to electric mountain bikes. Especially with all the hype Luna gives you about the voltage and specs. I tell people if you just want an electric bike with a throttle and don't intend on 'Enduro' mountain bike riding much, get something other then an X2. It's purpose built and does that very well. I have mine set with full throttle voltage with a slower response and when I go riding I put the power to only 2 out of 10 in the trail mode. That gets me the right balance of exercise with speed. But I can at any time tap the throttle and add all the power I need to pretty much show off at any time. lol
Unfortunately, there's not too much information. I think the base is going to be 1500 watt mid-drive up to 3500 watts. I'm not too sure about the battery. They are saying up to 2000+ watt hour extended range batteries but they'd be huge. I'd like to see 19+ Ah available, but with mountain bikes you're really trading weight for range. A 19 Ah 60v battery is 1140 watt hours.
The engineers said that it looked like the controller. They sent me a replacement and I’ve already switched it out and it’s back up and running, well. I’ll use it mostly as a street bike, just because I commute a lot and mountain biking requires more planning and traveling.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi I bet you were glad it was full carbon on the way home. Beware that maximum wattage of the Ludi controller is not sustainable. You’re riding a 700W motor supercharged to 2000W. For sustained street riding at higher wattage you’ll need the G620 motor from the Z1.
@@Zetler Good point. I don't plan running it sustained 2000+ watts. Thankfully, the app allows for fine tuning while street riding so I can keep to around 1500 watts while on the streets except for when I want to have a little fun or need a little extra.
That was one of the first thing I checked. The techs saw an error code in the video that showed a power surge suggesting a controller issue. Either way, I've switched out the motor and controller with a new one and it is back up and running well.
So was it the controller? It definitely seems like something was defective hopefully the replacement parts will fix the issue. Looking foward to an update. And keep in mind that while it may be heavier than some other bicycle brand e-mtbs it is a high powered bike and also has components that are on the heavier side compared to the 8 to $14,000 emtbs by the bicycle companies... You can literally buy a top of the line race ready dirt bike from an Italian manufacturer, even for less money then a specialized turbo levo SL in top trim! It kind of bothers me that most e-mountain bikes are more expensive than dirt Bikes just doesn't make sense to me. I'm interested to see what happens. Ill be watching for updates because i was looking at the x2 2.5 just not sure about the geometry, i want an enduro style emtb with lots of power to "shuttle me up" so i can have fun on the down hills. That's enough rambling from me. I hope Luna takes good care of you best of luck.
I've already received the replacement parts. I should be able to get them installed, soon. I was looking at alot of other mid-drive mountain bikes but most were limited to 28 mph. I had ordered a Nireeka Mega 1500, back in February, but never received it and gave up and cancelled the order a few weeks ago.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi wow that sounds pretty terrible ordering something and not getting it... I don't mind 28 mph so much because that's enough speed to get me moving pretty fast. Off-road but I want more power than most regular e-bikes are able to give.. been interested in the LMX 64 and The frey beast but they're really expensive. About 7,500 pole makes a really nice looking bike as well, but that's got one of the Bosch motors. So you're looking at what 500 watts? The virus e mythique Lt looks like a good deal too but idk low power normal bike company style emtb... I really wish that I could ride a bunch of the different ones. I don't want to spend $7,500 on a bike that I can't try before I buy it. It just seems insane to me
I haven’t weighed it but, with the battery, I would assume the large frame would tip the scales around 63 lb. That’s really not bad for a fully adjustable suspension front/rear e-bike. The Mokwheels obsidian is about the same size but with 26” fat tires and hub motors and is 88lb. As far as refund, as long as they fix the bike, I will be happy.
I haven't weighed it but, with the battery I think it's about 63 lb. The shipping weight was 66lb. It's the large frame. For comparison, the Canyon Spectral CF is 54 lb (medium frame). So it would also be about 60 lb for the large frame. As for the partial refund, as long as it is fixed per the warranty; I'll be happy.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi My bike came in on Sunday and I love the bike. The torque is so crazy it almost throws you backwards. My only issue isn’t is I can’t figure out how to program the clock on the top left of the screen. Any tips?
Hey guys, can anyone of yall help me, I have a problem with mine? When I turn it on, it stays stuck on the key/card logo... I tried everything (touching the key/card over the display and pretty much on the whole bike)! Then I managed to turn it on using the Key Disp phone application (by connecting it to Bluetooth & pressing the headlight button in the app) it will turn on & work, BUT then I can't power it off even by holding the on/off button... It stays stuck on the same key disp logo and can only turn it off by removing the battery... May I please get some help to understand if I'm doing it the wrong way, or is it simply a malfunction of some kind? (Maybe with the card/key, key display screen, or the controller... ?) Thanks a lot in advance!
For what you're describing .. Riese & Müller Homage 4 GT Rohloff HS, it costs around $15,000 with every conceivable option and extra. Otherwise if you want a motorcycle then buy a motorcycle.
Riding in the street is very dangerous for ebike riders, especially at night. Thats why I ride on the sidewalk or bike lane with plenty of lights on my ebike and my helmet. Good luck and stay safe.
Top speed averages 34-35 mph (dual motor) on level ground either pedaling or throttle only. It'll go a little faster downhill. It tends to drop to about 32ish on a moderate hill, with pedaling. Single motor, it's the same as any 48v single motor, 27-28 mph dropping to 24ish on hills.
I'm really interested in this Bike. Mostly cruising old logging roads pretty hilly in the mountains. How would this bike perform you think? Any info would be much appreciated
This bike should be able to handle the gain, fine. The dual motors provide plenty of torque and it can go up prettty steep grade with minimal loss of speed. The main consideration is to consider your distances. Two motors require more electricity, especially if used hard. You may need a 2nd battery if you want to cover long distances.Comfort wise, it should be good. @@merlo105
I have a bad back and have been looking for a full-suspension dual-motor Ebike under $2,000. From your videos, it looks like the Warrior suspension isn't providing much of a smooth ride even on minor sideway cracks. I know you fell in love with this bike but can you give an honest summary of how well the Warrior handles small and large bumps and potholes? What else can you say where it is lacking?
Are you referring to the gutters at the intersections? The suspension is fine for small bumps. I frequently jump off curbs without problems and I keep the tires at a pretty high psi. The rear suspension is not adjustable, though, so you are pretty much stuck with it as is. You could always add a suspension seat post, depending on your height. I wanted it more for the power, though. I was looking for top speed, especially on hills. The dual motor set up is perfect for that. Where you pay the price, though, is range. I think in dual motor on level 5, even with pedaling, the range limit is probably about 25-30 miles. For the price it really is pretty great.
Dude, it's supple. The thing is, you will not care about the suspension. The only thing you'll be thinking about is the power. It drives like a car. Scary acceleration. It isn't like a bicycle at all. It's a motorized vehicle.
Do you also have one? Could you please help me, I have a problem with mine? When I turn it on, it stays stuck on the key/card logo... I tried everything (touching the key/card over the display and pretty much on the whole bike)! Then I managed to turn it on using the Key Disp phone application (by connecting it to Bluetooth & pressing the headlight button in the app) it will turn on & work, BUT then I can't power it off even by holding the on/off button... It stays stuck on the same key disp logo and can only turn it off by removing the battery... May I please get some help to understand if I'm doing it the wrong way, or is it simply a malfunction of some kind? (Maybe with the card/key, key display screen, or the controller... ?) Thanks a lot in advance!
Good video. Just one thing, I noticed twice that you shifted gears while being stationary before taking off. This isn't a good thing to do. I could hear your chain crunching along the cassette to get to the gear you chose while the chain is under stress from your pedal power. Not good. Always be in motion and pedaling when shifting. Your cassette and chain will last longer.
I know. It's a bad habit that I've got to quit, pronto. I think it comes from motorcycling, where that doesn't matter. I have a mid-drive coming where that can snap a chain, though.
@@EbikeCommuter-gu6qi mid drives are even more sensitive to gearing as the motor power goes through your drive train unlike a hub drive. Always downshift before coming to a stop. Never try to pull out in high gear or try to go up hills in high gear. You'll put major stress on your drive train and motor. You could even fry your controller. Mid drive motors like to spin at higher rpms, they don't like to be lugged. Being in the right gear for different terrains is very important. Pretend you're on a motorcycle or stick shift car. You wouldn't try to pull out in a manual stick car in 4th gear right?I've got a 750w mid drive bike and even through I'm doing what I'm suggesting you do, after 1,300 miles my cassette is shot, I need a new one. A typical bicycle drivetrain isn't really designed to handle the kind of power that mid drive motors put out, so you always have to be conscious of your gearing. I'm sure plenty of people have ruined their cassette and chain quickly because they think they can ride a mid drive like a hub motor e-bike. You can't. Or you shouldn't.
I've tried external mics and a wind cover over a go pro. In the end, there's not much to do about road noise, other than omit it and dub over. The best I've found is the gopro with a wind cover but big tires make big noise.
Can you comment more on the suspension please? All the adjustments frt and rear, how supple is it? Stiction? Soaks up sharp bumps well? Psi in tires when testing suspension? Thanks.
I believe the rear suspension is only lock/unlock. The front suspension has damping and lock/unlock. There are springs under the seat that the manufacturer touts as part of the suspension, although, I don't know that they are of substantial help. I've set the dampening a little softer than factory and have the tires about 15 psi. I'm about 175ish pounds and find the ride pretty comfortable. I regularly go over curbs and bumps.
If you're if rear wheel, only, and level 3, that'd be about 750 watts 😉. My state seems to have copy and pasted California's ebike laws. I travel over 100 miles a week on very bike unfriendly, high speed roads and through some bike friendly areas. The stickers are in case I have an encounter with an angry somebody that, actually, knows the laws.
If I'm commuting, my goal is speed. For this reason, it's dual motor the whole way. I also have a fair number of hills on my commute. I will change the power level down to 3 while in smaller neighborhoods (20 mph limits) but keep it in 5 on most faster roads. If I'm riding trails for pleasure and not rushing or going for distance, I like the rear motor, only. It just feels more natural.
I have this bike and it's like having two vehicles in one...ebike and edirtbike (obviously not quite). It is a powerful beast compared to most single motor ebikes and climbs hills like a knife through butter. Only negative for me would be not having a PAS mode that really makes you have to bike (too easy even at lowest setting). You can't beat the fun factor of this ebike as you'll find yourself smiling a great deal.
Could you please help me, I have a problem with mine? When I turn it on, it stays stuck on the key/card logo... I tried everything (touching the key/card over the display and pretty much on the whole bike)! Then I managed to turn it on using the Key Disp phone application (by connecting it to Bluetooth & pressing the headlight button in the app) it will turn on & work, BUT then I can't power it off even by holding the on/off button... It stays stuck on the same key disp logo and can only turn it off by removing the battery... May I please get some help to understand if I'm doing it the wrong way, or is it simply a malfunction of some kind? (Maybe with the card/key, key display screen, or the controller... ?) Thanks a lot in advance!
I'll post a full commute with a voltage afterward. I usually charge after each one way, which is 15.1 ish miles.My commute is really sketchy; high speed roads, no bike lanes, dense traffic, aggressive drivers and a mixture of dangerous neighborhoods and wealthy neighborhoods. I usually drive dual motor and full speed for most of the drive and still end with about 50% charge.
@@silentangel1011 From what I can tell, it has a torque sensor. Even with dual motors and at 35 mph, there's still some feeling in the pedals. I rarely use throttle only, personal preference.
I put on 62 miles going PAS 1 & 2 with 12% battery left. I'm assuming I could get about 80 if I used just PAS 1. This was using just the rear motor. Probably about half that using dual motor mode. If you want to crush hill climbing and rough terrain this is hard to beat especially at the price.
