in various forms i illustrate a hands on approach to handcrafted wood furniture, stairway projects, general home repair, auto repair and vintage automobile modification. offering you the insight for you to attempt in successfully completing your own projects. ALSO periodically including a special music performance to spice things up. Thx for watchin,😊 ROD
There was several aspects that I left out.... but figured most could figure them out. I wanted to focus on some essential extra notable things. Glad it helped
This video is great. Thank you. I'm about to tackle converting mine with a kit from Speedway. Did you find another video detailing the whole process? It's my first time tackling a complete brake system change so I'm a bit nervous going into it. I have a 57 Bel Air with factory treadle-vac power brakes and 4 drums. New kit came with master cylinder, booster, front disc, rear drum setup.
Hey man I just wanted to say thanks for uploading this, was having trouble with the wiring harness and didnt want to break it but you showed me how to do it. Keep uploading!
This is such a Kool comment. Exactly what I want to be and contribute... solid good help.. as opposed to views like "notches on a gun". I struggled to find a GOOD video about what I was getting into... so I made this one... to "pay it forward" the the help I've had on other projects. Big thank you
You call that squashed up? Anybody can take a look under the hood if they want to see squashed up. Eight hours to change out the starter. I saw one of the "designers" bragging in a YT comment about how they designed the body to suit their tastes and then watched the engineers make everything fit inside. Great 3.5L engine though---very peppy.
Thank you for the videos it’s been amazing to see the transformation of this truck and to see your creativity and artistry in doing it your way. You are definitely an inspiration to many…
Just a tip to the video creator. Use the bottom left corner of a print as a reference point for the holes. It's difficult to get a square measurement when only measurements the distance between the holes. Side note I'm in the midst of modifying my own shifter. It goes in 2,4, and reverse but won't do forward gears. Going to flip it backwards and try it again
Man I really appreciate you and this video!! Idiots couldn’t figure it out at the tire shop and wanted to use glue!!! Thank You Brother!!! 🤝 #WeThePeople
thanks brother, my mother gave me her 99 300m as she no longer needs 2 cars, this one is low miles (78K) and garage kept in arizona. the blend door took a dump just as the weather was getting cooler, so needing A/C in november living in coastal Georgia isn't a must. but that's going to change in a few weeks. i can find almost no (HOW TO'S) on this car, probably do to age and the fact that these cars just weren't built with quality in mind. i'm not going to get rid of a car that was well maintained by the same dodge dealer for the past 25 years. so i'm fortunate enough to have all of its maintenance paperwork as well. i'm an auto tech and have done my fair share of mode and blend doors. this chrysler is a first for me and i just as soon get it right the first time. thank you again for the video.i subbed your channel.
Thx... the lack of info on this model car is EXACTLY why I put up videos. The car has since been sold, so I will no longer be posting any videos on this car
Just took delivery of my ‘55 Nomad and can’t get the tailgate open. Somehow a previous owner got the lift gate out of the car with the tailgate stuck. I pulled off the chrome cover plate and tugged on the rods but can’t seem to get the to clear the latch (mounted to the body). Any thoughts or advice?
That’s OK. Are the spring loaded latches (in the tailgate) kind of a “bear jaw” type mechanism? I know there’s a loop style bracket that screws to car body and I’m wondering if latches have “fingers” that clamp around that loop on the body.
Got my gate open today! I ended up buying a pair of forceps at Harbor Freight. I clipped one those on the release rod, pried off the little clip then switched to a needle nose vice grip. Repeat on the other side. I pushed on the vice grips, they pulled the latch jaws into place and VOILA! I pushed the gate open. I went ahead and took the latches off the tailgate (they need cleaned/lubed) so the gate doesn’t get latched again as I work on the car.
@@johnkelly6942 congratulations, thx for letting me know. Are you on any tri five fb groups?? My fb is rod Austin. I have a 39 truck on there currently
Smart man! I have an issue. I have a 1994/5 S-10 4.3 NV3500 but the shifter gasket internal (plastic i guess) are gone. Change ok but leaks. I cannot stand a leak. How can I fix this? I ordered a shifter assembly from Allstategear but I guess is a long throw. Will this work for my setup?
Should have my ‘55 Nomad this coming Tuesday. I know the latch will not open the tailgate and will have to conquer that first. I now have an idea of what I might up against on the hinges. Thanks for posting.
So many times I drive past old houses that are falling down and overgrown. It fascinates me to wonder when was it built? Who built it? Who lived there and what were they like?
Does not work for the 2.2. at least not my 97. Good video tho Edit: did some research, some 2.2s come with the nv1500 trans, doesn't work with that trans
Great video and technique! One question. Some reviews on Amazon talk about the white wall turning brown in a few months, AND not being able to be cleaned. Have you experienced this? I use Bleach White cleaner. The original Porter wall from years ago stated on its box, that the white wall not turning brown, so I'm wondering if the new material of today is inferior in that way.
My experience is the brown is NOT on the surface only. The brown staining permeates all the way through... I read that it is a chemical reaction to a particular substance used in tire manufacturing... some don't have it. Some do.
Great video and technique! One question. Some reviews on Amazon talk about the white wall turning brown in a few months, AND not being able to be cleaned. Have you experienced this? I use Bleach White cleaner. The original Porter wall from years ago stated on its box, that the white wall not turning brown, so I'm wondering if the new material of today is inferior in that way.
Hello, I too have had experience of the whitewall inserts going black with the bossed printing on the tyres coming through clear as a bell onto the outside surface of the whitewall. This happened quite soon after running the car at 60 plus MPH for only short periods for over a period of just a few days. In my case the air temperature was around 30 deg Celsius in New Zealand. I found the cause to be friction. There was no sealant or anything else used to mount these inserts. It was simply caused by overheating due to friction on the bulging shape of the radial tyres. There is a solution to prevent this. I have had great success by using rubber-grease to act as a lubricant for the inserts to slide over the bulge of the radial design especially the old school sizes in 13 to 16 inch The method is to to put generous handfuls of fresh white rubber grease behind the inserts. Push the surplus out by pressing the inserts by hand. Use the surplus for the next tyre. Wash the whole side of the tyre assembly with a light detergent and water to remove the surplus. Drive the car and no damage to the white wall will occur. Streaks of grease will centrifuge onto the tyres during the first run. With practice it will be found how much grease is needed for minimum clean up. Periodicly feel how much lube is still present behind the inserts. If it seems to be getting dry and sticky!, a small amount of fresh grease will keep things going. I have gotten long life out of whitewall inserts without concern of my speed or the temp of the day. Hope this helps. PS I the inserts are run dry enough to cause the inserts to be marked....there is no way that I know of to remove them because it occurs on the outside of the whitewall but starts from the inside.
That was some great info on the seals and clips so I appreciate the help, just starting a 39 project and being new to the older trucks I need all the insight I can get, thanks again
That's exactly where I'm at. I found no info about this on RU-vid.... and not much on internet. So I figured i should put some out there from my perspective. Thx, glad I could be some help.
If you take that stepped/ counter sunk black, disc,and install on the shaft with the sunk part on the nut you may not have to modify the other disc to act as a spacer.
Using this tool I got to measure push rod. This damn booster I got 8” dual is touching the master piston when it’s screwed all the way in. So basically the only option you have is to have a little bit of preload.
Well I guess we’ll see how the brakes are after I get this disc kit on. Originally I couldn’t bolt on the master due to rod being too long like yours was. So I turned it all the way in til it’s touching the little jam nut. I can get my master on now but according to this tool it’s not correct. We’ll see. This is the second master and 8” dual booster that has done this. My old one did so I order a Complete kit for 55 Chevy and it’s the same so maybe it’s off the master piston enough. Idk.
