Do you remember the price for that upgrade? I know it’s been eight years ago so I’d have to add the current inflation, just curious it looks like something I could use down here in south Texas.
Hi, your video helped me a lot. Thank you. If I have multiple roof top units, do I wire them in series or one by one ? Like from one smoke detector to another ?
Is that 24V AC or DC? The info I have is 24VAC. My Transformer is making a humming noise (like an old transformer) and I would like to verify that before I order one.
I'm getting the 24v proper throughout the ignition control except for the MV, my pilot is working fine and the blower is working too, for some reason when the wire is connected onto the gas valve the voltage drops to 15v but when you disconnect it from the valve it goes back up to 24, any idea why that would be happening? A vlog I read describing the same issue said he had to replace the ignition control?
Boss! Thank you so much. Your video so straight forward, simple and clear.... Despite of my being just a home owner, I could do it so easily. I wired and tested. It's shuts thermostate fully. No need to think of any blowers furnace or AC... I subscribe right now
on a roof top there is typically a jumper on the board that you remove and wire the 2 normally closed contacts to. i just run a 4 wire line from RTU to the smoke detector. R and C to the 24v input and 2 other wires often green and white to the NC contacts from the removed jumper terminals on the board. save you a wire running to the stat that can often be very far away.
That won't pass inspection in my area because the fan must stop immediately. Brake the power with 6 & 16 between the board and the transformer instead of R. 'SYSTEM SENSOR' DUCT DETECTOR: 1 & 12 are the interlock wires that go from detector to detector. If using interlock you must power all duct detectors from the same transformer. All duct detectors must be the same brand. An isolation relay is required if you have an X-13 style fan motor because you must break 120v to the fan. - 9 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (WHITE) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer - 10 - 24 v AC/DC ~ TRANSFORMER (RED) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors from 1 transformer - 1 - detector 1 ~ DETECTOR (YELLOW) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors - 12 - detector 12 ~ DETECTOR (GREEN) If interlocked, daisy chained to all detectors - 6 - 24 v ~ transformer hot (ORANGE) local transformer - 16 - 24 v ~ board hot (BLUE)
I would have liked the video but i couldn't listen thru you smacking your lips and snorting your buggers up your nose, you sound like a 10 year old trying do describe simple math fukking annoying listening to you, i feel sorry for your wife or boyfriend.
I think testo built the 310 like that to just make mo ey on a consistent basis. Dont sleep on these tool companies. They are not our friends. Tbey just want to make money off tbe techs back. You buy a tool then the certificate is soon expired. Looks like a trap.
High pressure lock out fault and found compressor would come on but condenser fan would not. You are awesome!!!! Had a HVAC contractor come out and said the control board was the failure. They said it would be around $2000 to repair and recommend replacing the whole system due to age. Needless to say I did not trust them. I followed your troubleshooting video and found the condenser fan motor failed. Yes the motor is expensive but I purchased myself and replaced. Works like a champ and took about an hour to replace. I would like to send you a tip. Do you have paypal?
1) What are the size of the Returns? You need two 18" Returns to ensure you have "Adequate Air" to interact properly with the refrigerant. 2) Do you know for sure, the Quality of the initial install, did they pull a Vacuum to 500 Microns??
Thank you for take the time and effort to make this video. You helped me diagnose a bad ECM motor. My model was slightly different but... contactor pulls in, 240VAC to the motor. Motor starts to spin, getting pulsed with 16.2V between PWM1-PWM2 in high speed mode, then after about a minute or two the fan lags, then stops spinning, 240VAC still at the top of the contactor, the DC control voltage starts pulsing more rapidly trying to get the fan back up to speed and then eventually the contactor drops and a CODE 84 - High pressure lockout code fault appears on the thermostat. Now the challenge of finding a part source as it appears the model number of the motor I have is obsolete. BTW, for everyone's info, my ECM motor has failed at 8 years after install, Atlanta GA, so it gets run pretty hard June-October.
Had some one install a new fan motor what appears to be possible generic fan motor. Or maybe bad wiring/set up? Now my infinity system won't cool as fast, takes an hour and half to go down 3 degrees. Any ideas what it could be?
Is there any optical where the smoke detector can keep 24 V off of the terminals on the panel? So as to not having twenty four volts coming off the r terminal
When using Honeywell Redlink, Thermostat gets power from thermostat wires. If power outtage, receiver AND thermostat both shut off, so they reconnect when power back on. With Mitsubishi, the thermostat has batteries, so it stays on when receiver is off. Wire thermostats with 3V battery eliminator, so it goes out/comes back on when main power does?
I purchased mine and I only used 3 times in a period of 3 years. It was out of warranty and those sensors cannot be replaced apparently like on the more expensive Testo analyzers. Very disappointed
Hey I just purchased the testo 310 unit and having a problem charging the battery up been on charge 8 hrs and not showing a full charge will probky send it to testo to repair not happy so far.
