Here's the correct Moog tie rod #ES3198RL. It fits the steering knuckle properly without redrilling. You just have to cut the long threaded shaft off before welding it onto your hydraulic ram. It is high quality steel and welds nicely with a MIG.
Hi, just wondering how did you sort out a handbrake? The original brake system has a cabled handbrake in the centre console. How did you overcome the issue of not being able to use the original handbrake after fitting the hydraulic brakes?
I just did this job. Hardest part was removing the circlip. I didn't have the best pliers. I'd suggest getting good pair with permanent 90 degree tips. I loosened the motor mounts and jacked up the engine a bit to make room to remove the shaft. Thanks for the video!
Don't buy jd! Easy fix. JOHN DEERE has screwed its customers. This is just one of countless flaws of older 20 series! 7 year old 2025r is a paper weight. Blew axle gears bearings and housing. Countless part failures from day one! John Deere give excuses for crap quality and horrible design flaws. Never ever will I buy another John Deere.
I got over 500 hours on my 2320 before the u-joint started to squeak on the transmission end. No clue it was a problem area until then (no mention in the manual). I was able to get some grease in it to finish a few acres of grass cutting (smaller nipple on the grease gun) but the damage was done (very loose u- joint). It was a bit of a bear to get the drive shaft out though. At the engine end, I had initially missed the fact that there is a removable plate for access on the right side. Once I realized that, I was able to move forward again. It turned out that there were two roll pins (one inside the other) once I got that blasted snap ring off. But, there was no way to extract the drive shaft until I loosened the 4 engine mounts, then with a just a little more persuasion, out it came. Whew! Then I saw that the other u-joint at the engine end was also done, very stiff and rust on the caps. I did find after market u-joints, (MOOG UJ410's). Thanks for that. Hopefully I can get them replaced soon and get things back in action. Thanks for taking the time make the video. Cheers.
Hey Neil. I’m at the roll pin part of getting the driveshaft out. Any chance you could let me know the size of the punches you used to knock them thru? Looks like a roll pin inside another pin?. Never seen this set up before.
@@mattriley6866 Hi Matt. introspect, you can probably use a 3/16 punch which is the size of the larger roll pin. I didn't realize this at first. Suggestion: There is a flat area on the yoke (about the size of a quarter) where you can get a dremel tool in there to clean up the area where the roll pin is. You can see it clearly then. Another note, it is not necessary to loosen the motor mounts. Instead, use two c- clamps on either side of the engine, one on each motor mount. You can move the engine forward by tightening the c-clamps. With the shaft all the way the rear, the yoke will come off at the engine. Good luck!
I watched this video because I just bought the champion 4500. But when I seen the X4 I was more interested in that. So I had to watch it a second time. Thanks for the video enjoyed it.
I am not familiar with greasing these joints but I may be getting real familiar with it in near future. That's why I'm hear learning. I wanted to share and old trick I learned. I see people stating they have problems getting these U-joints to accept/all the caps to purge grease. Tip: Run the machine for awhile to get the joints warm before you try pumping grease. Also put your grease gun out in the sun or have it in a heated spot. Grease can get hard (especially the old stuff in the joints) and if you get everything warm it will accept grease much better. This trick is especially useful on lawnmower spindle bearings. They will take grease much better after you mow for awhile first.
hey man, recent got one running at work and looking at providing it with a new home lol i have noticed that when i put the unit in gear (forward or reverse) it will bog down to the point that if you arent quick with the throttle it will actually stall, now this is a AMT600 so its a single seater up front instead of the 2 seater but should be setup the same, any info would be appreciated!
while your there, look how they ran the throttle line right on top of the fuel line.... Looks like mines leaking now and access is horrible!!! But, I am currently changing my U-joints over and cutting my access panel holes... I'm excited that this may be the last time I have to pull all this crap apart!! (I've done it? 7 or 8 times now)
Very good sollution how to rebuild John Deere Hydraulic Cylinder (part.no. AM116872) and not to bye new one for 500$ if old one is still working fine without leaks etc.
On the 2305 which I hear is similar I could only get grease in the zerks with a long tapered end grease adapter on the rigid gun pipe on a small one hand gun pushing hard to open ball on zerk and lining up and pumping. It's definitely a pain but can be done just getting it to line up perfectly where grease is going in and not just coming back out around zerk.
I also have a 2305 and attempt to lube those U-joints with a needle adapter but it is tough! Do you have the P/N of the "long tapered end grease adapter" that fit on your grease zerks or is this just a needle adapter too? I had to modify my needle a bit so it would fit the zerk by grinding the tip down a bit. Thanks for your info!
@@BrianK586 Sorry no part # had this probably 20yrs. On the 2305 you can actually get the whole driveshaft off from underneath but is a last resort,did it years ago just to grease it and won't do it again.
I went through similar difficulties, but did get the coupler attached to the zerk and heard the "popping of grease" so I knew the u-joint took grease. I decided to pull the driveshaft just to make sure the u-joints were good. What I found was that only two of the caps (both front an rear) were purging grease. I decided to warm up the u-joint with a heat gun and finally got all 4 caps to purge. I now pull the driveshaft in the spring and the fall and go through the same procedure (and each time, it takes effort to get all 4 caps to purge). If I had not pulled the driveshaft, I would not have known that grease was not flowing through all 4 caps. Initially, I was not concerned until I went to spicer's website. Their guidelines for their u-joints state that all 4 caps must purge to ensure all the needles are getting grease. While it's a bit more tedious to pull the driveshaft, it is a relief to know that the entire u-joint is getting grease. Pulling the driveshaft now takes about 5-10 minutes, getting the caps to purge takes about 30 minutes.
@@thomasbenko4246 I got the C clip off but for the life of me I can't get the pin out. I guess I don't need the c clip to hold the pin in. Is there a big or small end or just a spring pin that should punch out from either end? I'd really like to get a good greasing to the U joints.
@@BrianK586You can drift the pin out from either end. I used a 3/16" long punch (bought a set of long punches from harbor freight). I find that it is much easier if you can raise the tractor off the ground for a bit more clearance. I put a stack of 3 2x12 (4.5" high) under the front tires. I put 4x6 blocks under the rear tires (use wheel chocks). That gave me enough clearance to be a bit more comfortable tapping the punch with a hammer. Just persistent tapping with a hammer and it will start to drive out both pins at the same time. Once they start to move, they will drive out the top. Then you can slide the driveshaft back and the front yoke will drip off the spline on the engine side. You can then slide the driveshaft forward and it will drop off the spline on the transmission side. You have to wobble the front ujoint around as you are doing it as it can get hung up in all the junk up there. The first time is always the hardest. After you have done it once, it gets much easier. Putting it back together. After you get the driveshaft above all the crossmembers and supports, put the rear ujoint on the spline for the transmission. As you get ready to put the ujoint on the spline on the engine side, shine a light up to see if the hole for the pin is aligned. You might have to rotate the driveshaft or the engine crankshaft a bit to make sure you are lined up. Before you drift the pin, take a file and slightly chamfer the edge of the pin. It does not need a lot, but it will help greatly in getting the pin started. Put a little bit of grease on the pin. This will make it much easier to drive in and also much easier to remove when you do this again. The final piece of the puzzle is how to you hold the pin up to the hole where your hand does not fit and try to strike it with a hammer. What I do is take a 1/4" nutdriver (looks like a screwdriver but the end fits on a 1/4" nut. This will loosely hold the pin. You can then use the nut driver to hold the drift pin up to the hold. Tap gently with a hammer to get it started. After the pin is about 1/4 of the way into the hole, you can then use a punch to drive the pin all the way in. Try to stay perfectly straight when tapping the pin in so you don't bend the pin. After you drive the pin it, you can put the C clip back on. While the pin is tight, the C clip is good insurance. As a reference, the first time I did this, it took quite a while as my original punch wasn't long enough. It then took a while to figure out the puzzle of just the right way to get the driveshaft to come out. It's really worth it to see grease purge from all the caps. It took 5 minutes to drop the shaft and 45 minutes to finally get the grease to purge. Good luck and keep the skin on your knuckles.
Do you know what the flex line is for from the master cylinder to the metal lines? I’m bout to do mine this weekend a d I got everything that you said but the flex line thanks in advance
Rotate clip opening so pin is visible & with a drift/ punch drive it out , that causes clip to leave . Now if I had a easy way to reinstall! ( buy new clip)
@@ToolManThibert I did a conversion on amt 600 and they are a little slow. It will lock up one side but if hooked single but not both. Thinking of trying larger calipers than what I have now. Mine are smaller than the ones you used. Anything is better than those old cable pulls.
So you can put a backing plate/washer on the back (inside) of the rivet for additional hold. With computer design there is no extra space for your hand to get in everywhere like old sleds.
I'm glad I came across this video. Our church has a 2320 and it started a horrific banging noise and stopped moving (500 hrs on it). Thought it was a broken crank/rod. After seeing this we went back and found a broken u-joint at the trans. I feel better knowing it's "only" a u-joint and not an engine. Thanks so much!
Good to the point video 👍. I assumed these things had a walking rear axle setup. Being they don't walk how well do they do in rough ditched areas ? I've found one that I can probably get cheap enough that is ruff , rough. I'll use it as a farm vehicle so looks don't matter but some of my ground is rough terrain . Also when loaded is it hard to steer? It seems a load would push the one front tire straight.
