Thanks so much for making this video! I just bought one of these beautiful machines and it was helpful to see you chase a few different leaks. Mine leaks oil right now, pretty sure it’s the value cover gasket.
i used to have one of these in the late 90's it was ok for a gocart. just got another one going today. haha.. hopefully itll last longer than my other one did But i beat it when i was a kid haha
I put one of these replacement carbs on my Lt160 but it constantly hunts/surges i tried adjusting the Low speed screw but i cannot get rid of the Hunting Any Advice?
I have a 2004 L110 and have been the victim of a drive by mechanic. I had new fuel lines run, new fuel filter, oil and filter change. The perp removed my 42"deck, and disconnected my deck lift assist spring. Now when I need to mow my lawn I have to lift the entire weight of my deck which is not easy since undergoing heart surgery. I would appreciate a video on how to reinstall the lift assist spring for these mowers. Left side of mower below the height adjustment lever.
Very detailed lawn mower repair video. I watched lots of repair videos on your channel, they are very informative and helpful. Are you up for a collaboration by the way? Hipa supplies parts for small engines and we are good at providing the cost effective hardware-the parts and you have the knowledge of outdoor power equipment repair. Maybe we would work together to help more people in the community.
I was given an old Wheelhorse with the same problem. The gas line running from the rear tank followed the frame up to the engine where it made a 90° turn. Someone had duct taped the fuel line to the frame and as the engine warmed up the fuel line softened and would collapsed like an elbow pinching flow. When it cooled off it stiffened and straightened out allowing flow again. Something that simple sometimes can drive you nuts.
I like your comments as you proceed with your repair.Since I’m 78, I’m allowed a few damits. Other than that, it could have been me. Each time I try something like this, it’s trials and error. Mine is ‘86 S10 Blazer located under the alternator. Great video for an old man to follow.
I have a 2000 lt133 that I inherited from my Daddy. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, carburetor (ordered from Amazon). Still no fuel delivery. I took the fuel tank off and replaced the fuel line pickup for the gas. The stopper was a little degraded. Does anyone have anything else that I can try. My husband wants to just get a new mower but I have been mowing with this one since my dad died 6 years ago. Thank you.
My mower is 20 years old and I replaced the belt once already. I have to replace it again, but I always like using the genuine belt. Apparently Toro does not sell this belt anymore. So I will have to rule the dice with an off-brand belt.
Ok, here is some critical information, for those of us, with an electric/pull start system, and the black battery box on the deck of the mower. Ok, YES, there is a bolt underneath the box. But, it is towards the back of the mower, and you will see a slightly raised section of the box, that does not touch the deck, but sit's above it, about 1/4-3/8". The bolt you have to access is, literally in that notch, towards the backside of the black box/mower. And, I have found, that the box is riveted to the deck. So, for full access, you will have to rip the box off of the top of the deck, revealing 2 of the 3 bolts, as the 2nd bolt is, along the left side of the black battery box, just underneath the side front corner. But, if you are able to remove all of the plastic covers off of the back, including the flapper, for the bag. As, the top of the flapper for the bag hatch, is literally what has you blinded from seeing the bolt in the first place, besides the battery box itself. And, since I can't start it with the key anymore(Long story short, the cable harness was ripped out of the key starter switch, and ruined it), so it's pretty useless to me, at the moment. So, I decided to just rip the black box itself off. Which, made it much more simpler to access all 3 bolt's, for the plastic belt guard underneath. Also, it is a good idea to take a plastic bag(Walmart bags will do fine), and use it underneath the gas cap, by taking the cap off, then draping the bag(Double layer, by using whole bag) over the open hole, then screw the cap back on, and you now have a sealed gas cap, from leaking...
Awesome video. I had been following another one, but when I got to the pulley, the mower they had didn't have that assembly around the pulley that yours (and mine) have, so I was lost. You helped me get the rest of the way through!
I have same engine on a toro wheel horse...doesn't seem like I'm burning oil but I'm definitley leaking oil onto the hot exhaust...I also have evidence of oil leaks everywhere...on the head...valve cover...all around the sump...etc...I'm assuming it's the same issue you have...head gasket causing overpressurized crankcase
I had to replace the battery in my Jump N Carry 660 recently and I noticed they don't give you much room to move things around inside the case. Its easier to pull the battery out, remove and reattach your connectors then set the battery back in. Also I had to go from the vertical threaded peg to the spade terminals with horizontal holes. Had to buy my own bolts and bend a bunch of connections to make everything fit properly. It was a hassle. But it also saved me 60 dollars instead of buying a whole new jump starter.
I have this exact machine. When running, it works wonderfully for shredding leaves and turning 3" (or less) into chips. We moved from a house to an apartment. This machine has been sitting in a garage for 6+ years. I got it out to help a friend with storm damaged trees. I didn't think that it would run, and I was correct. I bought a carb rebuild kit. Here's my problem (if it is a problem); I replaced and cleaned everything. A video that I watched showed how to do this. The thin flapper gasket definitely needed to be replaced. I removed the old one. According to the video that I watched, there is a spring under the flapper. Mine does NOT have one. I bought the machine new and this is the first time that the carb has been removed. Do we need this spring? If so, how could my machine run for many years without without it?
You didn’t show how you put the studs back in by double nutting the studs. Just saying it would have been informative to someone that doesn’t know how.
Yes as Clifford said double nutting the studs is a great way to install the studs. Tighten one nut up against the other and then turn the studs in. Mine went in easily by hand and tightened up fully when the nuts were applied but if they are difficult the double nut method works great.
SIR I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH FOR WHAT YOU TEACHED ME IN THIS VIDEO. All this information will be very helpful to me when restoring my swift this summer. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 🙏🏿
Hello, thank you for the video. I have the same machine (pretty sure) I would love to know how the battery cables, starter, solenoid, wire harness that goes ignition switch are all wired. Any chance you could make another video or email me pictures? I can’t seem to figure it out and I would much rather turn a key versus yanking on the pull string. Would greatly appreciate it.
