Do you have any idea how much more gas your using ?! Thats like sauing well im going to travel the us in a camper for the rest of my days this motorhome that gets 5 miles to the gallon is ten dollars cheaper than that pne yhat gets 20 miles to the gallon !!!! 🤤🤤🤤
dont know if your kids were still around but goal looked in good shape and could be donated to plenty of places. pipe, i know about 30 places withing 20 miles that i could buy some pipe, some will even cut it how you want it.
I'm looking for ideas for something similar I think the commercially inclined railways have an automatic safety device something like Otis invented for the elevator so if the cable brakes someone isn't killed or injured. And also a system to lock the car under the tracks like a roller coaster has
I agree. I used some redneck engineering to make it work for 6 years but it wasn’t safe. Like you, I searched for a safer alternative, but it was beyond me. Good luck and stay safe
I am on different part of the globe, sir. Even english is not my native language. But, your belt grinder is just great. Simple but so sturdy. Really appreciate it.
For a while now I've been thinking of building one of these but nobody seemed to ever move any large pieces of metal until now. You sir have done it. Congrats.
Incredible video, thank you for sharing with the world the results of your hard knocks. VERY well done, your level of detail and thoroughness was awesome.
From what I have heard this is closer to what the Spartans would have actually used in close combat (once the spear was broken or discarded)- Not the proto-machete type blade seen in the movie 300. I have always loved a leaf shaped blade pattern, something very almost organic to it in my opinion. Excellent work sir.
Rick, thanks for the excellent video. Can you give any more information about what kinds of bearings and couplings you used for this project and where you sourced them from?
Very nice-looking lathe! I own a QC-42 that I'm in the middle of refurbishing/rebuilding/restoring. It was neglected for years, so it's not coming apart easily. Thank God for eBay sellers that have many original used parts! Mine apparently took a good whack to the cross slide/apron, because every control handle was broken off of it! Thanks for this video; it echoes my thoughts on why I bought Atlas, too, four years after you did. Edit: Mine came with the original cast iron base legs. It's a very heavy unit, slightly top heavy even, and was probably damaged while moving it. Not only was it neglected, it's here in Florida and spent several years in an open barn, so pretty rusty, too, but cleaning up nicely.
Great video, I wanted to know what thickness it was capable of cutting and all these so called pros never cut more than 3/16 You cut what I was needing to know. I bought this saw to cut R panel and this saw is quiet and leaves a factory edge.
Knew the sort of hyppthetical process, but this is a sueful visual as i was wondeirng how it scaled up would look. (From charcloth) like when charcoaleers used to be a thing.
Good job think I’ll try it your way. Except I recommend raising the wall around barrel to concentrate heat. Even two plates of metal on each side for heat to go between
About efficiency, if you were to rub the forge for realøy long sessions, wouldnt something that apsorbs heat be better? If you insulate a second layer which reflects heat. As an example, you are forging something, you pull it out of forge to shape it, and turn down the propane while shaping. I imagine that the apsorbing stones will keep the forge hot for longer. I dont know tho, im still a beginner
Could I coat the hard fire brick (which came with my propane forge as a base on top of the kaowool) with Satanaite refractory cement? Would this reduce the heat it absorbs? I also want to use some bricks as doors. Same question for these. Thanks.
You can - I coated my entire inside of my gas forge fire bricks both the hard brick on bottom and soft bricks on side and top with Satanite - helped a lot in retaining heat
Thanks for the reply. I've done this now. 1 kg just about covered the lot. I'm assuming that the coating can be thin, as it is reflective. I also hardened the kaowool first. I've bought some insulating firebricks to act as a makeshift door too. Ready to fire up as soon as I finish my anvil base (joining some logs together with studding).
Where did you get your gear reducer from, this is the best and most simplest hammer I have seen , could you give me the name and size of the gear reducer thanks so much. Andy Australia
The design was an easy way to get into a forge press without spending thousands but these small Air-Jack models have limitations like no upward power. So as an example - I can’t use it to drift out a tomahawk eye given it sticks
