Here in Ohio, you have to treat invasive species for multiple years before touching the canopy or you will have non-native invasives that become very costly and labor intensive to control. The average person can’t control them and it requires professional help. They take over 100% without control. We cut the undesirables trees out first when controlling invasives. Once it’s prepped we wait to see what the understory does, and slowly take a few low quality trees and undesirable species from the canopy while allowing our desirable species to re-produce. Once the regen is of desirable species and density we harvest a little more aggressively. We keep the majority of our large healthy mast producing trees to continue providing forage and increasing in value. Most logging is unsustainable and leads to degraded habitat and timber quality.
It is definitely a different ball game in Ohio. Compared to New York. I went out there to hunt state land for the first time last fall. The multiflora rose was so thick most areas were impassable. You make some great points! Thank you for the insight.
I planted 3 acres of corn and its next to a 1acre of clover and 1 acre of purple top turnips and radish, with some chicory. The deer use the corn field mostly as cover/ security to now hit my food plots.. Now that its December in Northern Ny the deer are still here for the first time in many many years.. Its far easier planting corn than all of those other gimmicky screening plantings..
I live in the Northeast and I no till planted the 115 day corn. I dont care about how many bushels per acre. Yet it grew amazing . No till planting is the way to go. I spray and kill everything off and fertilize when i plant and once again after it sprouts up. A 50lb bag cost me 265.00. One bag plants roughly 3.5 acres..
what’s the process of no till? I planted my first corn plot this year. Split a 1 acre plot with half brasica and half corn doing about 7 rows mainly for the purpose of screening for the brassica. When i purchased my seed i didn’t really have much direction as in to what to use for fertilizer or what to do. I ended up having to use a hand rototiller and the grass sprouted up right away. I was told to spread 19-19-19 on it when it was about knee height but i’m not sure if it’s even going to be useful
@@brenon_whitetail_partners I'm in Fulton county Ny. I own 60 acres, 3/4 fields and rest in woods. My problem is that all my neighbors are Amish. They are nice neighbors but terrible for the environment. They shoot any and everything brown. They don't care if it's fawns. They like hunting posted property too. My Amish neighbor has 72 Grandchildren and counting. That's a ton of tags and hunters in a small area. I do what I can to provide security and food for the deer but as you know deer travel, especially the Bucks.. Great video keep them coming
I plant 3 to 4 acres of corn to provide cover and food. I leave it all winter as well. It's made a huge difference where the deer will now hit my clover plots by the woods . They wouldn't normally cross open field to get to my food plots as well. The security / cover it provides has made a huge impact.
We sprayed it right before planting the interseed mix. That suppressed the weeds long enough to allow the interseed mix to grow and shade out any other weed seeds. We saw some weeds come back but not enough to affect the corn growth.
We planted the corn conventionally with a 2 row corn planter. We followed that up about 4 weeks later by spraying the weeds in the corn and broadcasting the interseed mix into that.
100% correct, we did a TSI and a timber sale on 30 Acres of Woods. Left tops for side cover . The opened canopy let sun light in and the regeneration is impressive. Thanks
I have a bunch of 10-15 year old red maple and white ash bunched together. I like to hinge cut a "wall" then squirt a little round up where i cut. Makes a nice wall and its for sure dead so deer wong try to use it as a food source.
Nothing beats green snow fence. You run it tree to tree like barbed wire, and stack it 2 high. It's cheap, doesn't ruin your property like logs all over. It can be removed if you move or change your property setup. It's cheap, and it's a one day project. As you get closer to your blind you put a double layer, like fence on both sides of the trees ot post. You can still plant trees but you don't have to wait till your beard turn Grey waiting for them to grow and work.
Thanks for the great info Brenon. Standing corn is obviously still going to draw the deer when 2 feet of snow is on the ground in January. What other feed/crops do you feel benefits the herd once the snow pack starts to add up for weeks at a time?
If you planted enough of it to last until that time of year, yes they will still be eating it. I like a buffet to give the deer many options. Brassicas, Austrian winter peas, winter rye, etc. The standing corn however is nice when the snow piles up seems how it’s easier to access.
curious to know if the inter row planting will stunt your corn growth ? Especially a seed like a brassica which is a large plant and bulb ? I could see clover being an idea but looking to hunt over it November/December it could possibly be under snow ?
The mix worked very well. We did not see any negative affects on corn growth. The deer are hammering it at the moment and we plan to continue doing this in the future.
Here is my experience with corn. (Southern Indiana) We started planting corn food plots in 1988 and did so until about 2000. It will hold deer on your property late fall and winter. It will also work better than about everything else from December till spring green up, soy beans will do as well or better depending on your deer and what they are use to, but corn seems to last longer acre per acre. The down side... Racoon populations will overwhelm you without intense trapping. Those coons will be murder on your nesting Turkeys. Corn can cut your Turkey population by more than half by building up a coon population. Corn plots also seem to be utilized more after dark than any other plot, I think deer just know that it's going to be a long process to eat their fill. I confirmed that the deer liked to feed in winter wheat, at last light then move into the corn after dark with my cameras year after year. Squirrels and Crows, also learned to go down the rows after planting and pull the young shoots up and eat the corn leaving a dead plant laying out in the sun. I could loose 20% of my planted crop this way. I hunted from fixed stand locations and shooting through corn is just not possible, especially with a bow. So unlike a wheat field I could shoot through, it was not good enough to have a deer I wanted in the field within range. They had to be in a shooting lane also. SO I still use corn but for me its easier to start a feeder system that uses corn mixed with deer feed, and save the plots for other crops. ( I have corn fields in my neighbors so I am not giving them corn when they don't have the digestive gut bacteria already built up in their system. That can be an issue for deer. ) I do sometimes plant a corn plot, but for me in my climate with my deer I think other late season crops are better suited.
Eastern NY the majority of fields are growing houses. Mostly grass fields left. Deer mow down the grass. Whenever I plant anything the deer just demolish it. When it grows a inch they eat two inches. Good job.
You’re correct, they are slightly different but both are a grass specific herbicides. We have had good luck with poast in the past as well. Do you recall how much per acre you applied? Also do you know if you added a surfactant with the poast? Our label called for it to be mixed with a surfactant for optimal results. Thanks for the input!
@@brenon_whitetail_partners I can't recall the amounts but I followed the label directions for clover. I did use a surfactant. The grass turned red and yellow on the tips a little but soon grew out of it. I sprayed Clethodim about 5 days ago. Going to see how that works. We had a serious drought last summer and fall in my area. The net effect was that grasses, sedges and other weeds gained ground on my clover plots. I'm mowing and spraying to try to improve my clover stand. I may have to start all over.
I just found your site, and enjoyed your comments. We have been putting in food plots in SWWI for almost 30 years. One of our most important components in our clover plots in drawing deer is Chicory, please be aware that 2-4-DB will kill Chicory. Thanks, Bob
If u got the acres of clover I got u got to mow buddy . And yes u can mix cleth and 24db in the same tank I’m 52 years old been spraying that for 20 years
The issue is not technically with the Clethodim and 24db. It’s with the Surfactant that the grass specific herbicide calls for. We made the mistake in the past of using a non-ionic surfactant which can cause the 24db to injure the legume. When in doubt always read the label is our point.
The deer love these clover food plots in Northern NY. It's amazing what works in some areas doesn't work in others..I planted the beets n greens and the deer preferred the clover. Yet 12 miles away my friend planted the beets n greens and they ate it to dirt...
Our blinds on our destination food sources are for firearms. They are tucked back off the field so that we are able to get in and out of them with several deer on the food source without spooking them. They are a great spot for late season as deer are flooding into them to replenish their nutrients and body weight they lost during the rut. It’s a nice option to have but should be used with caution.
Hey young man. You sound like you have been doing your homework. I watch all the habitat videos and MSU videos and have had great success. I have just bought a piece in New Berlin, NY last fall. How far away from there are you located.