We have a small shop in rural Minnesota where we take on all kinds of projects like automotive repair & restoration, welding, even woodworking. Basically anything we can handle in our luxurious 16" X 24" garage/shop.
ive got a 98 ram 1500 same engine that's been sitting for 4 years. I tried to get her running and it cranks but no start. I can hear the fuel pump kick on for the initial cycle and have 45 PSI fuel pressure. When you were getting the crank but no start, did you notice if your tach gage moved at all while cranking? Mine isnt so my initial thought was crank position sensor. I also hooked it up to a scanner and im getting two codes: one for the Crankshaft position sensor and a second for the Camshaft position Sensor. Seems odd they would both be bad at the same time?? Any suggestions?
I’m retired mechanic with 40 years experience on those I allways took hole air conditioning bracket of and fan blade assembly makes it faster getting apart but I still watch those cause some times you pic up ideas that makes it faster don changed my gear box witch was a pain they allways are on a 4x4
I like that you are involving your son in the repair process; teaching him about tools, and how to use them, and safety, and 'letting him' do some of the work. A great way for a father and son to bond...the little guy will remember this long after you are gone. Nice job parenting.
I did mine about five years ago on my 2001 ram . What a fu@king nightmare. If you take the two body mounts, bolts out on the right side, and jack the right side of the body, you can slide your hand up in there. The other thing is long, Allen Wrench shaft and Universal knuckles. And a lot of swearing in beer.
I just finished a Mazda 323 GTX tank. It sat for 10 years with a quarter tank of gas in it. Having tried muriatic acid years ago with poor success I went with white vinegar, 5% cleaning vinegar. Four gallons of vinegar and filled/ diluted with tap water. Sealed the tank and let it set full of liquid for 8 days rotating it daily. Drained and hosed out the loose gunk and refilled with two pounds of baking soda and water, left to set 4 hours then drained and rinsed. Dried in the sun and sprayed inside with a full can of WD40. No solvents were used, the varnish came off with the rust with no sticky residue was left over. Just an FYI on what worked for me.
Pro Tip: Check your push rods while you're at it. I had a plugged one. A week after doing the valve seals it started ticking again because oil wasn't being pushed up through the hollow push rod.
Bought it, and sold it back to him ? WTF!!! This is your dad!!! You buy it and over pay, then you fix it and give it back!!!! That is what I did for my son !!!
My god the face at @6:51 is a meme. I know what’s wrong with it, ain’t got no gas. God bless you, keep living the dream with a true purpose ☮️❤️♾️brother. I saw a lion leading his pride with good balance when I saw your video.
Thats a pretty ambitious swap, I'll give you alot of credit on this one. I have a 610 myself and have been all over it, just recently redid the drive pully speed mechanism, sleeved the bore and made a new piston, works fine now. My background is welding, fabrication and machining.
Hey bud there is an easier way to do this that ensures the valve doesn't fall down I. The bore... takes a bit longer but way safer. Run about a 3 foot length of old spark plug wire in the sp hole whilst the engine is at TDC bang no worries mate
Awesome video man, I just pulled the carb off my panther deluxe this afternoon and cleaned it up still wont idle nice even after she’s warmed up. Got some more fiddling to do I guess! Cheers!
