RC Car and Boat Enthusiast from Canada, Bringing you videos and conversation regarding all things Radio Control on land and water. I will be showcasing projects, reviews, mods involving CNC and other forms of fab work. Enjoy!!
They have alot more rotational mass than plastic, so most people don't use them. It is also harder to glue them to the rims. it would require bead locks. In theory a great idea, but just heavy.
Just getting my family into rc so I pulled the trigger and spent all the $$$ lol😂. Just ordered two wltoys 124017's and a 124019. The two 124019's are for wife and me and the 124019 is for my teenager. Figured my kid should start off with one a tiny bit slower and it was a little cheaper as well which I needed to think about while ordering 3 rc's. Other than electrical parts should be the same between the 2. Can't wait to get racing around
Very helpful THANKS! I never thought I could get a better transmitter for my non-EVO Mini-Z, but looks like I'm also getting the Noble and bind all my RTR Mini-Z's. 👍
1/18th scale drift and street are kinda lacking. You will find alot more in 1/27-1/24th in both. Mini-z, Atomic racing, GL racing to name a few. There is a few mini touring cars. But nothing for ripping around and bashing. You should dive into mini drift cars and the stuff I mentioned above if you havent. I'm looking at getting a GL Drift or Atomic DRZ3
There appears to be some videos on youtube where ppl use this same module with the noble nb4+. I can not confirm myself, but there seems to be info saying yes it works.
Thanks for sharing all these cool products. All of it was new to me. There is just so many RC's and upgrades you could spend a life time researching. The MCD chassis is incredible. Great job ... Keep em coming. 👍👍
Like scale means anything these days? Put a traxxas 1/10 next to absima 1/10 and 1/8, the traxxas is closer to the 1/8th scale. Just put a ruler next to it 😂
So I wanted you video a few times and locoed at mounting and such to maybe just cut a new plate for the center support and move the mounting pieces down closer to the diffs so you can trim the ends for the belts but from the manual I downloaded to read before I ordered you have your center chase brace backwards. It shows it shark finning from to back your is read to front. I dot know if that would make a difference. I pic on Yopkomom has ti shake finned front to back but the one mounted in the pics on Amain has an almost syeemetrical one so I dont know
Try a smaller spur, I have had better luck running a 92T 64 pitch spur, with a 47- 49tooth pinion. You can also order thin alloy spacers from ali express. The answer really is 64 pitch spurs from Axon. They really should have provided a 64 pitch spur with the kit.
The smallest spur I was able to run is a 92 teeth 64pitch with a pinion ranging from 48-50 teeth. Running Fantom and R1 21.5 motors. The car is a rocket.
I Switched the justock to an R1 motor on one car and I put A fantom 21.5 in the other. The justock was slow. I definitely couldnt gear the justock enough. The justock esc is great though.
@@gigi9467 On road classes are quite a bit different. Depends on the club. Onroad has too many variations of categories imo. We have 21.5 blinky spec class.
You could buy a skid from another company. Just drill and tap new mounting holes. I believe Team garage hack has a skid you could drill to fit. Just make sure you pick the same width as your chassis rails are spaced.
Just got my 1RS. Building it up now...launched a tiny ball that goes under the diff and no idea where it went....still can't wait to run it. I have a TT02 but that thing is a toy not built for racing.
One rule which should be mentioned but its unwritten. Never borrow your expensive tools (anything digital, setup stations, chargers, temp,guns etc) to anyone. A few of us had to spend time looking for that stranger who casually forgot about being unprepared. We all have that one guy who races with almost no tools, few tyres and even one guy who turned up with no fuel
One gentleman rule would be 'dont gun the throttle when your car becomes an upside down turtle'. Gloves wouldnt hurt either, as having a cut while picking or tossing someones wild chariot would really suck when its your turn to race with cuts
I am blessed that our local tracks have 4 big brands equally represented by drivers, setups and spare parts. I dont recommend starting off with the most popular class. Even if its just a weekend club race, the effort you put in shouldnt be just for trophies. It should be justified for the effort and cost you put in before and while racing. I seen too many rookies start with brand new equipment, following whats won on Sunday sells on Monday, then drop out from racing as they need more driving skills. Some races you wounder how tney pool all the sports drivers when every lap is a full on crash and you are trying not to break your engines. If I am saying anything at all...just start as a volunteer marshall. And make good friends with the positive racers. Dont get into the brand wars and buy the kit that you deserve
In all serious though, Associated is the only brand to race. Until next year When I get a Mugen hahaha For real though, this guys comment is the truth. I was definitely trying to convey you do not need the best. Slow is fast.
@@DavidR8 The smallest I can put on is a 92teeth 64pitch. I wouldnt go larger than a 96t 64p. I am running Fantom and an R1. 48-50t pinions. I have not tried a 51. They are both rockets with 21.5 motors and this gearing.
I am going to test a 7kg one. I still have not installed it, I will let you know. This is the one I picked up. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006083342402.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.66.1b8a180247BL8G
Even though i have all these tools it is still interesting to watch how someone else gets on in another country,i shall try the gorilla tape idea as in the uki struggle to find any sort of padded tape thanks
Your tires are what holds you to the track, if your tire game is wrong, you will have no success. The problem with practicing on worn tires is you don't know what changes to make if your car isn't handling. If you make changes to make your car handle on old tires, you are probably screwing your new tire set up. You don't want to be trying to get your car dialed in after the first qualifier. Any time you make changes to your set up, write it down. If it works in certain track conditions, you know what those conditions are and what changes to make. If you make the wrong changes, you know what to reverse to get back to your starting point.
Never make changes on your car without running the tires you will be running during the actual race. The only reason to practice on half worn tires is because you have only two sets and you are just starting to buy gear.
Don't buy no name anything, just buy from reputable companies. You may have to pay more, but you will only have to buy once. If your electronics are going to shit on you, it will be when you are having a good day.
You should find a small class that regularly has enough cars to race most weekends. One of the large classes is 1/8 scale buggy, Grasshopper, you ain't ready. A large class will have so many participants you won't make it out of the B mains. There is nothing more fun that getting bumped out early, I guess you could make a little cash marshalling for people that make the A mains. Won't be long before you are looking for a new hobby. If you have never raced before and have a little money to invest, go with Stock Slash, all you need is a transponder. They aren't real fast, they have limited adjustability so you can't get your set up so wrong you might never fix it. Covered tires mean you can lean on someone and not wreck. Its too easy to flip because you went too much wheel to wheel. If you aren't an experienced wrencher, you don't know enough to buy a used car. You can get a "great deal" on something only to have to buy more parts that you would be better off buying new. I guess you will learn to work on it.
Such a nice car. Depending on your track and traction available, you should try some brass weight in the rear if you haven't already. It Really changes it. Also check out pink spring in the rear.
Made such a big difference on my car. Besides being more stable, it seems to slide down the barriers better, takes a beating, and the front end is rounded nicely to “bounce good” if you touch the barriers.
I know right!! Its worth getting. And I totally agree about not getting stuck on the boards. I actually find how bodies change handling to be drastic in mini z and especially in 1/10 touring car racing.
I just took a look, and I don't see a spacer. Seems I did not need one. I checked the alignment and it looks fine. It could however be the profile of my servo making everything line up just right. #luck
@@CSmothersForge Weird, I have super free movement. I am actually going to change the servo, so I will take a look and get back to you if I notice anything. I am super curious now.
I never raced in the mid 1990's to currently in the 2wd Stadium Truck class being there was never a track to race on near me in Collins, New York. So I made my own off-road track at home 20+ years ago & still use it today to race my Team Losi - XXX-NT, XXX-T, Mini-T, & OFNA - Ultra MBX Buggy.
It has always been difficult to find 1/16 scale class. Maybe try to trade or sell it and put money towards a car or truck that is being raced at your local track. Tough to answer.
