I make videos on science and technology. This includes scientific experiments, demonstrations of scientific or technological principles, and construction of scientific experiments and other contraptions. If you have any suggestions for topics I should cover, let me know.
This is a great tutorial, but when the program reacts differently to the result you produce, even when copying the steps precisely, it gets a little frustrating. I'm currently editing the Bottom Plate, I have successfully copied and made it a rigid group and I'm trying to redefine the sketch plane for the hole for the lead screw (see 13:20). I select the sketch and choose refine sketch plane, but when I click the top surface of the top plate, a full blue square selection is highlighted, not with cut outs for the corner details as shown in the tutorial, and when I click accept it throws up errors in the cuts and the bottom plate hasn't flipped over like yours does. Do you have any idea what I'm doing wrong? Edit: Managed to resolve the 2 issues. 1) The first was related to the direction of the cut for the lead screw (it wasn't mirrored and was cutting into empty space, removing or adding '-' to the 7.00 dimension resolved this, not sure why this was an issue on my model and not yours, but nevermind 2) The second related to the mid-plane (this wasn't the highlighted error in the model timeline at the bottom). The mid-plane seemed to align to the top edge of the bottom plate, so I went back into the mid-plane feature, and re-selected the top and bottom surfaces (from the top plane model, which it is referencing when editing), this re-centred the mid-plane and fixed the extruded cuts / feature rotation which were referenced from the mid-plane.
This is great but I tried it for a 30mm diameter, so radius would be 15. Approximation is around 21.25 so I take it 22, but the gear tooth stays to outside for module 2 gears. 21 also stays to outside...
Do you mean you're getting interference? This might be because if you're doing 15 teeth undercut is required, which the Fusion360 gear generator doesn't do correctly. Even then undercut is better avoided if possible, a larger pressure angle may help.
@@antalz Hi there, thanks for the answer, I will try different pressure angles. No, I meant when you align the single tooth with the plane you created along the intersaction axis, your gear tooth is almost halfway embedded inside the cylindirical body. In my case its not embedded, kind of touching in bottom middle, but edges are lifted. Maybe it is normal and I need to sketch and extend so I can create the solid feature, but it feels like it is wrong and I might have problems later on.
@@ROBOROBOROBOROBO If I remember correctly, the tooth getting properly embedded in its gear occurs one or two steps later when the base of the tooth is push-pulled a bit to embed it properly.
Nice explanation. Now to my problem: my washing machine goes out of balance on the low speed spin (at the end of the wash and rinse cycles), but not on the high speed spin (occurs twice on the spin cycle). I observe that as the machine spins up the high speed spin (spin cycle), there is an intermediate speed where the machine starts to go out of balance, but the rate of increase in angular velocity fairly rapidly damps that out. On the low speed spin (wash and rinse cycles), the angular velocity seems to terminate right at the point where the out-of-balance condition is at a maximum. It seems to me that, under the imbalance condition, the machine moves from side-to-side rather than at random, and I suspect that this is because the base is narrower in the side-to-side direction than it is in the front-to-back direction. Thus, I believe that the oscillation of the spinning unbalanced wash basket hits a vibrational frequency of the washing machine base causing the machine to make unpleasant noises and to walk around. The machine is designed with a "balance" ring at the top of the clothes basket that is filled with fluid. I presume that this fluid-filled ring is supposed to dynamically counter any oscillations that result from an imbalanced load in the basket. Inspection of the basket shows that there is fluid in the balance ring and there does not appear to be any damage to the ring that would cause a leak in the balance ring. I am having a hard time visualizing how a relatively small fluid-filled ring at the top of the wash basket can adequately stabilize an unbalanced load of wet clothing in the bottom of the basket. Alas, for my model, the balance ring cannot be replaced and the cost of a new basket is nearly the same as the price of a new washer. I should point out that the wash basket, the outer container and the motor and gearing are supported on suspension rods with springs to damp out vibrations. I am thinking that, in addition to springs, the suspension rods should include dashpots to overdamp the motions. Any thoughts about this practical application of the points made in your video? BTW, your video was the best I have seen about the subject of instability of rotating systems! Thanks.
Killer series, particularly the formulas and how it all works. Occasionally some the the fusion stuff was a bit fast if you hadn't used some of the tools in question, but overall outstanding. Thanks so much
This was a great idea but the fatal flaw was using particle board. This will quickly deteriorate when it gets wet. Try using anything else that isn't damaged by moisture. Plywood that has been painted/prepared to withstand the moisture and look better. 1" pink solid insulation sheets would also be ideal, less expensive and easier to work with. I would also add some foam weatherstripping to help seal the edges against the window frame.
The board has a white melamin coating that is waterproof. It also looks fine. In theory the vulnerable edges are "inside", but there's still a good chance some water will seep into it. Once this panel does swell up I think plywood would be the easiest choice. So far I've been able to just remove the thing before rain starts. On hot summer days there's usually little wind so the rain falls straight down too.
@@antalz Thanks for your super quick reply! Honestly, you should look at this first. It's perfect for this and super easy to work with. Very lightweight, has better insulating qualities, it's waterproof and you can cut it with a utility knife. You could probably paint it pretty easily as well. It comes in 1/2" thickness as well. YT won't let me put a picture in the comment but this is what I mean... Owens Corning FOAMULAR NGX F-150 1 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. SSE R-5 XPS Rigid Foam Board Insulation
@@RustyTheGeek I hadn't considered XPS insulation before, is that stuff rigid enough you think? And can you cut and drill the holes easily enough? The hose adapter is also secured with M4 screws, does that work? That could be a material I could use more often.
@@antalz Best to just go look at it in the home center. I'm guessing the 1" will be best and the most rigid. It's literally just very dense solid foam so any screws will need to pass through it into something on the opposite side to hold well in a sandwich configuration. It can be cut easily with a knife, ideally one that is long and straight such as an extendable razor knife. I think you'll find it to be ideal for this specific use.
half the control board and double stack it right at the back? it looks like a heavy piece of MDF. Have you considered Carbon FIber? :D I hear LED's make things to faster also.
I found out about this one from the "Mechanics of metamaterials" course at the Leiden University physics department when I was doing my master's there. Martin van Hecke's taught that course, and his research group published some more stuff you might be interested in. I also know Ron Resch had a bunch of other stuff that was really cool.
This is the tutorial I have been wanting all along! I really appreciate your scaffolded approach, presenting material in increasing difficulty rather than overwhelming a beginner with everything at once. You've given a lot to think about, but you've supplied the tools to perform the analyses. I can't wait to see your videos on herringbone and helical gears. Thank you!
You can also make the latches entirely from wood, primarily using dowel rod you can buy from the hardware store. I had wanted to make an update video showing that, but I never got around to it.
This is weird but i was printing a 3dbenchy and encountered a problem I've had for a while now. My set up is a 0.4mm nozzle ender 3 printing PETG mostly at a bed temp of 85~90C cause i find it gives better bed adhesion, and the issue is that on certain prints I would get this absolutely horrendous warping ~6-8mm above the build plate. Any sort of corner would just begin to curl up and inwards on itself, and I tried everything suggested in this vid short of using an enclosure. I even slowed prints all the way to 25% and i still get this warping. Curiously, it seems to happen only for thinner layer heights, when i bump it up to 0.24 and above, this problem reduces or goes away entirely, but thats obviously not a good fix for the problem. i don't have this problem on my much faster klipper printer either, regardless of the layer height at the same bed temps. I read something in a comment on another video, which was to lower bed temp, i tried it, lowering to 72C and that reduced my warping by a lot. Whats the explanation for this? Obviously closer to the bed, the high temp reduces warpage, and at a certain height, the warping would initiate due to the lower temperature, but why does it diminish when i use a lower bed temp from the start, very fast print speed or thicker layers?
The effect dimishes when you lower bed temp as it reduces the difference in heat between the lower layer on the bed and the upper layers cooling faster as they build up from the base.
The exponential temperature decay is due to the nature of thermal energy transfer being proportional to the temperature via W/m·K, not because of your explanation.
Thanks for the clear explanation. Can you please clarify why printing slower would make a difference? Assuming the ambient, nozzle, and bed temperatures are the same, printing slower would still yield the same temperatures all around, no? If anything it would start laying down the next layer sooner before the previous cools down more.
By printing slower the plastic flowing through the nozzle has more time to actually get up to the nozzle temperature, if you print fast the plastic comes out slightly colder due to limited thermal conduction inside of the plastic itself.
