Currently I have a 1983 GL1100 Goldwing I am working on, having some trouble with airfilter, its a K&N and looks exactly like yours just different colors obviously, and it would not fit for some reason. Although it was old we just dented the top since it was a few centimeters too high it would not seal with the rubber on the bottom. Just did that to be quick and figure out if bike runs (which it does). So now I'm trying to figure out why it didn't fit, and where to get the new rubber between the filter and the engine. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
@@jack17012 I've heard of people needing to put a pipe or cup the size of the outer center circle, maybe that's about 2.5", on the under side of the filter, and then setting a big socket on the top side. Then give that socket a wack a few times until the round recess is deep enough to seal like the stock filter does. I hope that helps for you!
Awesome video! I'm rebuilding 2 GL1100's, and I'll be upgrading both bikes with these coils. I have a '81 with a batwing fairing/custom paint and a '83 hard tail chopper. Here's a video of them ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h_CrudwOX1g.htmlsi=dMg_i1gUiBlxwlLQ
I've rebuilt several old homelite chainsaws . Mostly for friends and family but 4 or 5 of my own. They are kinda like an old hot rod car as in they need worked on from time to time but can still be strong and fun to operate. I found one on marketplace the other day that's a monster and I've never seen one so huge. Can't wait to tear into it and get it back to good condition
Nice tips on getting that antique HOME LITE xl chainsaw running great again. Enjoyed your comments and actually seeing it. Cut through some pretty big logs.
Excellent details and videography on taking the whole light XL completely apart and putting it back together again!!! I appreciate the comments the details make her break the job!!
You got it! The best advice I can give is really clean out the brass idol jets that aren't removable from the carbs body, and maybe take pictures as you pull things apart so you can look back at how they will go back together! Lol
@fixitforjoshsake what spark plug are you using in your 292? I been looking online and can't get a for sure awnser.i have to clean up the points today and see if it will fire.thanks
interesting but my inquirey has to do with your bike I thougth i seen a batwing fairing on it and i'm looking for mounting brackets for my 83 gl1100 a name or some pictures of how it was done appreciate anything info you have
Did you change the firing order on you neon pack ? I did as per another . It seems to run fine but ballast resistors gets hot as hell . Did you remove any of the wiring from the stock setup after installing neon pack
Hey David, I was really careful to color code and lable the wires, and in the end I did have to swop two wires to get the correct firing order. Those ballast resisters do get really hot! I clamp mine to the metal frame with metal house clamps to help dissipate the heat that they put off. I left all the stock wiring I could, but the points were pulled by the previous owner and a CDI was installed so some things are different on mine
Thanks for watching! I do have both the right and left controls in stock and will be installing both of them in a video soon. I'll elaborate on some of the other electrical system too at that time.
Wow, thanks for the awesome comments on getting the engine running after it's been setting for a season, those tips will save me a lot of frustrations !!!!!
I'm glad to hear that! I'm hoping that this warmer spring will make for a lot of really nice, and relaxing motorcycle rides, with as little frustration as possible! Speaking of riding. What's your favorite place you've ridden?
That sure would look nice! And that would be for the guys who have the resources and money...or even the need for that fancy of a restoration. My motto is function over fashion. Maybe someday I'll sandblast a skid or bulkhead and post a video of the process. That's a great idea! Thanks chuckc111
Wow!! I throughly enjoyed your video. I love vintage anything, cars, trucks, motorcycles. I never thought of vintage snowmobiles. I just found your post while looking through various videos. I’m going to watch it again. I missed some of it. I know Harley made snowmobiles, I didn’t see any on here. But I could have missed it. Thanks for posting, I really enjoyed watching it.
These old sleds sure are fun and unique! I didn't see a Harley at this show and they seam to be pretty rare. Maybe we'll see one come out to the next show. Thanks for watching!
Nive sled this weather is no bueno i either want some nice weather so i can ride my motorized bicycles and my pocketbike without being frozen or i want snow so i can ride sleds this in between bs sucks
Haha, not trying to be "tough" here. I shot that bit on the day after a really fun Halloween Costume Party with a bunch of friends! "Jack Skullington" enjoyed his night around a bonfire;) Thanks for watching and Keep on wrenching man!
In 1973 the motor was a T4B 292cc Kawasaki. That's what this is. I haven't needed to bore it over yet, but as you can see in my video, the compression is going that direction eventually. The suitcase muffler was stock on some lynx in the Kawi years. The HR70B Tillotson carburator was stock on that motor. The Comet Duster 94C primary clutch was a stock option. The 6 gallon gas tank was stock on 1974 lynx that I needed to have on this 1973 for the 50 mile races. The skis or stock but with 10" racing carbides that are 60 degree-V's added. the skid is stock but with a limiter strap added to the front to hold the front of the track up and help with turning. The track is stock. The big mouth hood is from a puma... same belly pan and tunnel length, so not really a change. I am following all the rules listed in the Midwest Vintage Snowmobile Racing group I'll be racing in for 292's You should look them up! It's a lot of fun!!!
Yeeha I read the rules and now I have to find a engine and when my wife finds out I'm going say it's your fault I have 72 puma and a 73 cheetah but both have to big of engine maby the puma is 340 but twin.
@@danielreichoff5853 both of those sleds you have there could be setup really nice for racing! I'll be happy to take the blame if it means you get to have some fun wrenching and riding on a sled! Lol
I totally get what you're thinking! But there's a hardened steel bushing that's pressed into the bulkhead arm where the spindle goes through, so there's no need for a washer there, just on top.
@fixitforjoshsake okay thanks. Yeah I took the skies off my 74 lynx 295 and there was a few super thin washers. I wasn't sure how it went back together.
@@HappyH0use blwpartsfiche.com/ gives us a great breakdown of all the parts. It shows the washers, but the steering arm is not in the drawing. So to be honest, if I had 2 thin washers on each side, I'd put one on top and one on the bottom of the steering arm. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me!
Stripped screws are normally caused by using the wrong screwdriver. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws are used by almost all Japanese motorcycles. Look at the screw for a 'dot'.... that signifies a JIS screw. JIS screwdrivers usually come as a set of 3 but might be individual. Online is the easiest outlet. Your particular problem might have been the lack of a 'idle adjustment spring' on the adjuster screw! I noticed it was missing at the beginning of the carb teardown and magically appeared during the re-installation! That adjuster screw will always try to loosen itself and that causes the idle speed to fluctuate.... always slower. But with all the visible fuel leaks you were justified in the teardown and rebuild. You should have mentioned that you reinstalled the spring though. One of the biggest 'boo-boos' was not replacing the center gasket between the carb bodies. Well... you actually can't because it's no longer available from Honda but... you could 'seal' the center gasket with some PERMATEX RUBBER SEALANT #85409. A tube costs about $10 USD. It's not a perfect replacement but it's better than having all your work done and finding it still leaks fuel. I don't know if there's anyone making a replacement 'packing' but I do know it's unavailable from Honda. Once you break it apart you should know that it's going to leak upon reassembly.... so some sealant is the best alternative. The 'prybar' you used to pressure the screws for the air cut valves'.... was very good process but that's actually called a 'gasket scraper'. During reassembly you MUST reset the float levels! This is so important you should have covered it in your video! Also you should have inspected the fuel jets and verified they were clear and used compressed air to blow them out. Never, EVER use a wire or drill to check for them being clear. Soak them in a carb cleaner (spray carb cleaner from WalMart works fine) and then blow out with compressed air. A higher than normal idle speed can be cause by several problems but one of the most common is an air leak. The intake manifold o-rings are a VERY common reason. They are available and should have been replaced. So.. your work was far from professional but it wasn't the worse I've seen online. When the GL1000 first came out we had carb problems with the first ones because they had set in the werehouse after manufacture and shipping from Japan... or so we were told. I battled with carb removal until figuring out to remove the 2 right side slide bodies was the key! The provisional manual we had made no mention about HOW to remove the carbs. Good job on that for you!
For your information.... I found a source for the center intake plenum gasket (the packing between the 2 carb halves) at Randakk's Cycle Shack. They are in Florida. They want less than $13. I didn't check everything else out but these people seem to be THE source for most Honda carb parts. Hope this helps!
I rode a Lynx when I was 12 years old, it also had a 292 and at the time I though this little sled was the fasts thing I have ever ridden. I now have a 1972 Panther I am projecting and it has a 292 in it so all of these Lynx videos are priceless. Thanks Josh
Nice job,thanks,they sure did stack them up back then...Say were you pressuring it or using a vacuum pump for the pop off test and was there a height setting for the needle lever...thanks...
Hey, thanks for watching! I was using an air pressure pump. You can buy a pop off pressure tester on eBay, or you can make your own like I did here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pkrmue35m-0.htmlsi=wW16jOoPb7lO0WVF Also, Tillitson and Walbro carbs don't need the tab that the needle sets on to be adjusted like carburators with a float blown would need. But we do need to check a Tilly or Walb's pop off pressure and get that spring size correct. Best of luck setting your's up!
Thanks a lot its been a while , normally with vacuum differential pressure working the diaphram i would set the lever just over the body so the lever would have full pump. great info thanks again... stroke@@fixitforjoshsake
