Thanks for doing this video. I did everything and still had no luck. I did notice that the fuel flow from the tank was a bit light so loosened the filler cap and the motor ran as it should. I guess the vent wasn't working on the cap. Hopefully that will finally solve my problem.
I bought a Torqeedo Travel motor at the end of July 2023. I will never buy Torqeedo again. From the first uses I had an error code 30 (problem sending/receiving data between the battery and the engine) preventing the engine from starting... This problem is well known to Torqeedo. I followed the recommendations of Torqeedo support and tutorials (plugging and unplugging the cable several times so that the error disappears) all last season… It was stressful never being sure the engine was going to run... but it always started again after a few tries. This season I have the error code E30 again, but impossible to resolve the problem... I plug and unplug it dozens of times, I apply WD40 as recommended by Torqeedo but the blocking code does not disappear. I then contact Torqeedo support who directs me to an authorized reseller for maintenance. After receiving the motor, the latter tells me that Torqeedo does not apply the warranty on the pretext that a pin is broken on the cable (from plugging and unplugging 100 times, no doubt!!!). He tells me that I have to dismantle the entire engine, check the tightness, etc., all for the modest sum of 1000 euros, and without commitment of deadlines, the latter having no visibility on the availability of parts!!! (engine value 2349 euros). I follow up with Torqeedo support who doesn't want to hear anything. Yesterday the dealer contacted me to tell me that he is stopping business with Torqeedo, that I must pay shipping costs to recover my engine which is still out of service. And Torqeedo is still absent. So a piece of advice: avoid this brand, don’t buy Torqeedo!!!! Zero quality, zero service, no respect for “promises”, no consideration for the customer. There are a whole bunch of other brands and engines that are much more quality. Ps: I have a hybrid boat and I have always praised electric technologies...
Hi. Are the carburettors for 2.3 and 2.0 identical apart from the main jet size? I ask as the price for the 2.3 is double so I’m considering modifying the jet if my old one won’t come out in good condition. Thanks
I had a Honda 8 Four Stroke that was beautifully quiet.... but it was becoming too much of a chore as it's so heavy, plus it requires a can of fuel. So I looked around for a small outboard, preferably the kind where you don't have to mix the gas. (My Dad had a small Mercury that required that). Instead I chose a Suzuki 4-Stroke 2.5 hp. Here's one in action... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tvMvvfXUffk.html
In the market for one and would have bought the Honda, until I tried a Suzuki 2.5hp. Same weight, yet liquid cooled. Waaaay quieter than the Honda, more powerful, tighter tolerances, longer range, every bit as reliable and $999.00CA instead of $1,339.00, makes the decision a no-brainer.
A heat gun works just fine for removing the EPA cap. Took about 15 seconds on high, then a little more heat to soften the gunk clogging the screw head. The cap was not glowing. Is the heat gun safer around gasoline? Probably not.
Wow buddy you have a annoying voice not to mention you should lose some weight your huffing and puffing just trying to talk I was a fat turd till I nearly died loose the weight or your going to end up in a pine box good luck
I've got one of these I've been running it for 2 years and it is a Charmed motor. Works perfect as long as there's gas and oil in it. When you tilt it up always keep the throttle handle on top of the motor and shut off the gas at the cap and the switch in the back. It starts every day five times a day and goes a half mile 365 days a year. I've never changed the spark plug and only change the oil once or twice. Now I feel guilty I'm going to have to give it some oil . It's a Wonderful motor I highly recommend it they cost about $600 but they are noisier than most
Great video. I'd already had my carb apart with little improvement - only thing I don't get is: how come your emulsion tube just fell out after you removed the jet? Mine seems pretty fixed (if it wasn't fixed the jet wouldn't unscrew would it?) and I've no idea how to dislodge it.
I've owned one for 6 months. It's has had several carb cleans but still is never reliable. I thoroughly recommend that viewers look at a different make.
rather than flame off the EPA cap I used a Dremel with a cutting blade and heated it up enough to pry off. My intention was just to cut off locking part but I ended up prying it off after heat build up from cutting as the EPA cap was spinning without turning the jet. thank you!
You should edit this and upload another separate video showing just the part where you remove the anti-tamper cap on the idle jet. It would be easier to find here on RU-vid as an excellent reference for those who have never done it or don't know how it is done. This is a great video overall but the cap removal part is something unique and special that I don't think exists anywhere else on this site.
Hi there, I just bought a 2021 used Yamaha 2.5 very little hours. Started it for first time today in a closed loop circuit (my bucket). Was very eager to run it and the only water I could get was from a hot water hose as the cold water supply was closed for the winter. I went through different rpms and ran it max rpms in neutral for probably 2-3 mins, water in bucket was very hot. Engine shut off and made a quick cranking sound. Couldn't get it to start again. Checked compression by putting my finger by the spark plug hole and didn't feel any compression. Put an inline spark plug tester and the tester blinks when I pull the coil. Could the hot water have damaged the outboard? Any next steps to diagnose what needs fixing? Thanks!
Just bought a nearly new 2.3 the owner was frustrated with. I'm sure it's a carb issue as it has spark and compression. Once the arctic temperatures subside tomorrow, I'll get it out of the back of the car and give it a whirl. Thanks this is hugely helpful
Make sure the fuel cap vent is allowing air into the tank in the on position. If not enough air gets in it will run poorly or not at all. It plugs if gas was ever allowed to seep into the cap because of overfilling or the vent was not turned off when the engine was tipped. This can totally plug up the charcoal and no air can flow Honda wants upwards of $100 for the cap but the three vent holes can be drilled out to 3/32" or so and all the charcoal pellets and foam crap inside dug out carefully by shaking and using a tweezers after carefully breaking it up with the drill bit you used to enlarge the bottom three holes. More holes in the bottom side can be drilled if the first three aren't enough. The top hole under the switch can be drilled out to 1/64" or so if you totally disassemble the cap and look under the little rubber gasket. The charcoal makes a mess so do this in a bucket or cardboard box. It's a bit of work but better than paying $100 for a stupid EPA gas cap that has no business on an outboard motor. I did this and plenty of air flows and it still totally seals when the vent is turned off. The temporary fix is to loosen the entire cap a little to let air in if the vent switch is not allowing any in. If this fixes the running problem then the cap is plugged and needs to be replaced or "cleaned" as I have described above.
Probably will spill and/or go into the motor This is a good time for an oil change. Dump the oil first like the video explains then dump the old/water-contaminated fuel after that. Don't forget to fill the oil again and put new fuel in.
Another option if you only have a little fuel left in the tank, crack open the 10 mm bolt on the bottom of the carb floatbowl and let it dribble out. That is better than using the flathead screwdriver drain jet because it gets all the fuel out, otherwise a quarter inch remains in the bottom of the floatbowl.
Just bought mine today 1100$. 12/12/23. Still had fuel in it. Last one left. ? A demo. Layed it down correctly with air vent closed petrol leaked. Also didn't know made in China
I know Honda doesn't recommend it but since it's air cooled can it be tested out of water? I've seen a lot of videos reviewing it that do and if I got an outboard and it broke I'd like to be able to test it while working on it instead of going in the water every time.
Helpful, but hit a snag with removing the EPA cap. I thought I had heated it up enough, but when I pulled it off, it took the head of the jet screw with it. Perhaps I didn't heat it enough or perhaps I didn't give a straight enough pull? Either way, It is going to be very difficult to remove the stub of the screw, as access is very limited. I notice you did say there was a risk this might happen, but I would like to emphasis the point! Ralph.
beautiful!! just followed your steps to clean the carb. my enginee was only running on chocked. And i found the injector has a bit cog, give everything a clean up, now works like charm!! One thing need pay attention the throttle adjustment, it maybe not back to orginal postion, then you need adjust it a bit, it's very sensitive.
I just bought a Honda 2.3, but was disappointed after some use, it is hard to start. Sometimes in the middle of big lake, give me hard time. I am trying figure out what is the problem. It is much easier to start my lawnmower engine which was not Honda.
I figured out that I have to increase the RPM's (put the gas lever into middle position), then it fires up, and I quickly reduce the RPM. Had the same issues as you before...
@@WallyKnorr Half throttle means you're starting it in gear. You wouldn't have that problem with ANY other outboard because Honda is the only one with a centrifugal (scooter) clutch. Buy a Suzuki.
Great video that I found very usefull especially with alignment issue. One question- you did not mention the two paper gaskets that sit between the carb and the plastic housings. How does one keep them in line when putting everything together?
I finally broke down and got out my plumbing torch to heat up the EPA cap. You said to let it get red hot and start to melt. Well mine just melted like solder and fell off, exposing the screw nicely. No way the cap could ever be used again. Good thing it's just a nuisance anyway. Cleaning out that area finally did the trick after four carb removals without. Thanks a bunch.
I missed seeing you put the screw that you had to heat up to remove... sorry but I’m confused about that step... would appreciate a reply if you have a chance ... Thanks, ... John.... Ontario, Canada...
All the major manufacturers make 4 stroke outboards which don't require "Mixed Gas". The major difference with the Honda is it's air cooled. A little simpler but MUCH louder. Theoretically lighter, but that's not the case. The Suzuki is only a few ounces heavier even though it's water cooled and comes with a proper neutral/forward instead of a wear prone centrifugal clutch. You can't rev a Honda in neutral like you can just about every other outboard in the world. Annoyingly loud.
The sharp bend in the big cable from the leg to the battery will cause the hair thin control wires to break inside the cable, causing an E-30 that will not go away, bricking your motor. Good engineering principles is no cable bends tighter than a radius of 12X the cable diameter. This is either incompetence or deliberate. The battery is $999.00 and deliberately made with part of the motor circuit in there so you can not use a $200 ebike battery instead. Its a terrible, owner-hostile design made more complex and less reliable in the interest of making sure owners cannot repair anything. They even epoxy the cells into the battery box so you can not change out the cells.
People asking about EPA cap. It's only there to stop you from getting to air screw. Once you've bypassed that, no need to put it back unless you really want too...
