Welcome to my Channel " Baden- Baden " Hey everyone! This is one of my very first videos, in this adventure I rode to different parts of Texas. I hope to show ya'll my next adventure in the future. Like, comment, and subscribe for upcoming videos! Hope ya'll enjoyed, thank you for watching!
I have a different kit and handlebar riser fitted ( even higher than the one in this video ) and it’s made my RS my forever bike … all day comfortable with all the RS best bits too 👍
@@baden-baden I wish I knew myself , I had a bmw K1200s and obvious choice was to replace with an XR but that meant no shaft , I didn’t want to be a Charlie with a GS so went looking around and I found an RS , one owner 7000 miles with these high rise bars ( complete new bars similar to the GS ) and it’s so comfortable so I bought it on the spot and so pleased I did . I was told that on the RS you could actually order it from the factory with high bars as obviously the brake /clutch lines etc are all longer too but I’m not to certain about that , but whoever bought my bike new had ticked every option so it wouldn’t surprise me if they are BMW fitment
Why, don't cutting the belt, easy? Einfach durchknipsen, oder wie? Beim Kette Trennen nimmt man doch auch fix einen Winkelschleifer oder packt ihr das Nietwerkzeug dafür aus?
Sorry but do not follow this. There is a specific tightening pattern and torque specs. Hand tighten top 2 bolts first. Hand tighten bottom 2 bolts next. Always leave a gap on bottom side of clamp. Next torque to specs top 2 bolts. Final torque to specs bottom 2 bolts. That is BMW specs!.
The connecting screw of the swing arm to the connecting strut (13:30min, Torque is mentioned with 145Nm,! You are joking ,thats wrong, (after very tight, comes very loose) Its only 43 Nm. Btw. to handel the ruber part with srewdriver is cruel. Use some plastic bars and to position the ruber parts sealing isr recommend to use some Lubricants for seals
Although it is a nice video, 95% of the work you show is unneeded to replace the rear pads. push the pistons back by pressing the caliper in direction of the wheel. Remove the pins as you show in 4:00 of your video and just slide out the pads, slide the new ones in, put the pins back, press your brake pedal and done! It is really a 2 minute job that you can do with no more than a small screw driver or even only with your hands. Just saying.
Notice the universal joints are non serviceable with zero grease points ... thankyou BMW .... new driveshaft from BMW Motorworks UK £500 which is fully serviceable with grease points fitted as standard ... mine failed at 70,000 miles and once a year I do a full rear diff and driveshaft service religiously.
A quick swipe with a flannel is not good enough. The Pistons need to be scrupulously cleaned before pushing them back into the Caliper, otherwise you're pushing all the built up road crud into the Seals.
I know the rear of the drive shaft should be done every 6000 miles since we are servicing it anyway but how often should the front be done? Great video by the way
aight. I'm so glad I found this video. I need to do just that. I'm ordering the new rotor (40.000km rotor) and pads. Total cost about 180€. While BMW mechanic wouild bill me about 500€ to do this (with parts). Thanks SO much. By the way, can you confirm there's no need to open the break fluid tank to push back on the pistons?
