If you have the crank pinned at TDC on the compression stroke you should be able to turn the cam enough to put the cam lock blocks on. Join the E39 forum at bimmerforums.com
@@bmwinfo7764 Thanks. I'm doing the chain guide job without changing the vanos. All DIY's I could find for this job, include removing the sprocket, as they all include repairing the vanos. I'll leave the sprocket for this matter, but I suppose loosening the sprocket would be necessary when setting the correct timing, to be able to retard the vanos cylinders?
@@ThePerfectionOfLexus you’ll need to remove at least one sprocket to get the chain off so you can replace the guides. I sell rebuilt vanos with new Beisan System o-rings.
I wouldn’t say it’s a lot quieter than a muffler delete, but it does have a deeper pleasing tone. If your just driving normally (not flogging it to redline like in my video) it sounds better than the $$$$ Dinan muffler that some of my friends had on their car. Better check the size of your inlet pipe as this one is for my 540. An i6 may have a smaller OD pipe. Also this will require cutting and welding, if you don’t have the tools have a muffler shop do the install.
Wow your engine is BLUE great looking engine. Way too cool. Thanks for the video much needed. Although I wish there was a redesign for the timing chain guide issue on the 540i.
Never saw any instructions to do bank 2 first. All of the ones I’ve done the chain has always been tight on both sides. Never had a code after doing them.
@@bmwinfo7764 I've seen it in Beisan guide. I'm just retiming mine, because my mechanic was changing guides and timed it bad, engine is running but very rough idle, and no power, got error 34 Function, inlet camshaft control, bank 2, and live data from CPS reads bank 1 = 0°cr and bank 2 = 42°cr, adaptations angle on bank 1 are from 0 to 4, and bank 2 are all cylinders same -20. So there's probably bad timed inlet camshaft, over advanced from what I've read on forums. Doing it now by myself to get it everything done properly. Your videos and posts are very helpful exactly to the point.
@@bmwinfo7764 just reading page 134 chapter locking of engine timing, quoting: "Tighten bank 2 then bank 1. Note: This assures any chain looseness it drawn to chain tensioner."
BMW Info Nope! I’ve simply read enough of your forum posts that you seem familiar to me. I’ll be doing my timing chain guides on my ‘03 540 soon, and I’m studying up. I’ve only ever done an oil change, wheel bearing hubs, and brake and rotor change, so this is quite a big undertaking for me, and your posts are very helpful
@@GregoryEsman So are you a bimmerforums or bimmerfest member? As long as you have the tools and do it correctly the first time you should be OK and not get any codes. If you do get codes look to bimmerforums for help.
@@bmwinfo7764 That's right. I will, thank you :) There are many types of timing and vanos tool kits out there. I read some are more precise than others. Which brand have you had the most success with?
@@GregoryEsman , I have only used the Koch kit and haven’t had any problems with it. It’s all steel components. I’ve know a few people that bought the Koch knockoff kit on ebay (made in China) for $100 and it worked out OK for them. I think it’s more about the people that are using it and if they really understanding what they are doing and why.
Omar, yes cut the muffler off just past the rear axle. I drove it like this just to see what it sounded like. I then pit a Vibrant 1047 twin top muffler on. A few weeks ago I added headers and then put a QTP motorized cutout on the right side of the resonator.