Maple syrup enthusiast, and DIY'er and other adventures in Jackson county West Virginia. From auto mechanics, to gardening to building, we love to attempt things ourselves and hopefully help someone out.
Yes. There is a bulb on the cluster. It should be working when you press down on the parking brake. Make sure your parking/emergency brake is actually working. Go to a parking lot or other safe place press the parking brake and put your foot on your brake pedal. Then put in drive or reverse and see if it stays still or moves.
I just got the 1500 lb. model, not because I need extra weight capacity, but I needed the larger deck for a generator, welder and propane bottles. I have a regular 5 x 10' utility trailer that I pull with the ATV for firewood, etc., but I wanted a dedicated cart for a mobile farm welding rig. The "portable" generator is a 248 lb beast, and I just don't want to deal with taking it off and on the trailer. So far so good with the Gorilla cart. I really like that it tracks perfectly behind the ATV and is slightly narrower than the ATV. If the ATV will fit through an opening, so will the cart. The downside of the cart is that it's impossible to back more than a couple of feet before it jack knifes. The short length paired with the articulating front wheels means I have to plan my departure so that I'm always going forward, otherwise I have to unhitch it. Fortunately, the articulating front end makes it really easy to turn around in tight areas before hitching it back to the ATV to depart. I noticed you have the forward tongue section installed upside down and I'm wondering if you discovered an advantage to that? The possible issues I see is that it doesn't seem like the cart tongue would stay upright when unhitched and stored, or perhaps not clear the trailer deck if turning 90 degrees?
Thank you. My owner manual says 2.7 quarts but like you it seems to take 3 quarts when I change it. Nice to have the validation of someone else requiring 3 quarts too.
Sir you really don't need to remove fuel rail otherwise you plan on replacing fuel rail injector gaskets you could use a 7mm square wrench to get to the coil screws so you don't remove fuel rail becuase once you remove the injectors gaskets you must replace them with new ones or you may have a leak on the road if not properly placed and gaskets are stretched from removing them so they don't seal like they suppose to so i didn't mess with those when i did my truck
Thanks for the video...i got 2001 f150 and its misfiring shakes when driving but i have coolant leack i see it at front cylinder 1 and 2 and #2 is misfiring I think thats what causing misfiring #2 Any help please Thank you.
That Could possibly be contributing. The intake manifold has a cross channel for the coolant. Look underneath the intake and look for coolant. The intake manifold would need replaced. I wish you could just change out the channel but it is what it is. It's not a bad job. Roughly around $180 for the intake. Definitely get a second opinion. But good luck.
@MountaineerMapleDIY Thanks for quick response, what brand intake u recommend? i heard all kinda of stories about that still not sure whats best thanks again.
great freaking video. my rear rotors took a whole day to get off. crazy banging and tugging. i cant believe the whole things inside was completely rusted. i mean solid rust. I don't know how my brakes even worked. all of them were seized up in some way. My parking brake levers were a solid piece of rusty metal. my truck is up on jack stands while i wait for amazon to deliver some new levers.. This video show everything i needed.
I noticed that also so will the adjuster hole on the back line up now or was it on wrong when he took it off. I also noticed that the adjuster star on the RH side was facing the front.
i might add that you should be careful with having so many open plug holes at the same time and make sure that you dont blow any screws or tiny bits into the holes or you could scar the piston and or cylinder walls
The bent part of the handle shaft is installed upside down but it doesn’t really matter, only difference is you can’t rest the handle in the upright position as easily
I have the same cart and with the handle installed the way you have it, it does not want to stay in the upright position when using the cart and manually pulling it. When turned over and installed, the handle will rest properly in the upright position used as a manually pulled cart and also allows easy connection to my atv.
At least part of the views are us commentors. Another part of views are from people we bought our trucks from. The other views are from people about to sell their truck and 2 views are from original owners. 😂 Thank you for taking the time to upload. Do you still have your truck or is it the one I just bought and want to sell already?
Nice job - real use review. I would need it for projects like cleaning up downed trees and shrubs. And also simple things like hauling pots of plants to plant into landscape so need something heavy duty, long lasting, but also with the holes in bottom to let water and soil fall through the cracks
22lbs torque and a droplet of blue locktite for added security for the notorious spark plug blowout and good to go! Compressed air in my opinion should be a must for cleaniness too.👍🏾
Mine is a 2013 Honda CRV. It does not have a CVT transmission. Also check fluid warm, it does not need to be running. Checking while the fluid is moving while being pumped, qould be like checking the water level in a hot tub while it's on.
This is incorrect. North American CR-Vs 2012-2014 had a 5 speed automatic. The CVT was not introduced here until 2015. They also did not have crush washers.
On the driver's side, the second to the last plug towards the fire wall, did you have to take off the fuel pressure regulator to get to the plug? Those are the only two left for me to do. My truck has 398,000 and I had 6 original coils. It actually ran fantastic until a week ago, I had the sputtering between 40-50, supposedly the classic signs of a bad coil pack. With the 6 replaced it runs like new but I want to do them all of course because the last two are definitely original. The plugs were last replaced at 350,000.
This was useful to get an idea of the process. Don't worry about the knuckleheads who tell you to replace the washer. Its not a crush washer. Its a regular flat aluminum washer. Can be reused without a problem.
I was able to do the passenger side without removing the fuel rail. Driver side, second from the back,is tight. Probably will have to remove the rail. 7/8 can be done without removing the rail. Not a fun easy job but doable
Just did my 2001, dont need to remove fuel rail at all on the passenger side for sure. May help a bit on drivers side but i did it without(but its harder to do).. Take time have a 1/4 and3/8 drive swivels and varierty of extensions and its sastifying work
