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I trust anything that FM comes out with i have had 2 turbo Miata a 91 and a 96 both with thier kit, both abused and driven hard as you could possibly do and not once did i have any issues with their products, if i had a NC i would buy this kit without question.. if i find a good deal on an NC this would be my go to kit . Only thing i would want to change is to make a race pipe option to remove cat and allow open tuning so we could upgrade or add more power.
Thanks for the kind words! We cannot legally sell a race pipe, so that won't happen. If you want a different tune, you can source one from your vendor of choice but we doubt it will be an improvement and it will invalidate the emissions legality.
All NDs come from the factory with sway bars on the rear. If you increase the size of that rear bar and do nothing else, it will make the car oversteer more. We recommend a balanced front/rear set of bars unless you're trying to achieve a specific handling change.
In my understanding you are not setting a car up with pre-load ! To the Most part , you are adjusting the ride height , The car is being held up by the springs, no matter how much you adjust them you are not going to adjust pre-load only ride height
Having the ability to change the compression and damping are a must I think that’s why sports motorcycle shocks are massively more technical Than car shocks !
Na8 here (95m). About a week ago on my home from work I stopped to get gas. Everyone at the pumps was really annoyed by the speed in which they were operating. I mean reaaaaaaallly slow. IE, it took over 15 minutes to fill the maybe 7/8 gallons I needed. But since I was already there and it was a friday, I figured I'd just mellow out and be patient. Then I hear this noise that sounds like its coming from the other side of the pump. But no, I look down and fuel is rushing out of my wheel well onto the ground. The auto shutoff never happened. I quickly removed the pump and went inside to express my displeasure. They just threw up their hands and muttered some bs about the pumps needing to be 'reset'. Again, friday afternoon...I'm not trying to go to war with anyone. Id say at least a half gallon of gas ended up on the ground before I got the nozzle out. The car started, then stalled. I started again and gave it a healthy rev and never looked back. Car seemed to be okay on highway operation for the next 45 minutes. The next morning I figure take the car out for a spin. It starts...I back up 3 feet, stalls out. Now it will not start at all. Just continues to crank with the same tone. Put it on cables so we could let it go for more than a few seconds, but it keeps just turning, no start. Is it possible that a fully saturated cannister/purge solenoid could do that? Or should I be looking elsewhere?
Any chance you'd share the link for the steering wheel cover? I know you said $35 at Amazon but there are many and I'd like to make sure I get a decent one
Great to see the NC getting a bit of attention. Completely agree on your favourite mod’s and I also don’t know which order to choose. I use the roof controller more or less every day, sometimes more than twice in a trip as here in the UK if it’s not raining then it’s about to start and I like to have the roof dropped as much as possible. Great service from MX5 things too. Likewise the head unit, I’ve managed to squeeze in a 10.1” screen Android, it does slightly obscure the heater controls but screen real estate is king in my eyes so a compromise I’m prepared to make.
They're not very common, as the PRHT killed any market for them when it was introduced. They are still available new from Mazda for nearly $3000 or you can look for a used one at the usual suspects.
Love these videos, just wondering if you guys could vacuum the carpet and wipe down the interior prior to doing these videos. I know it's being picky, sorry.
It's a cheaper Android headunit from Amazon. We probably wouldn't buy this exact model again, but it suits the bill for wireless Android Auto and wireless Carplay. Also, it's definitely ONLY for NC1, regardless of what the ad description says. www.amazon.com/Hikity-Wireless-2009-2015-Touchscreen-Bluetooth/dp/B0CYZPJ5H2/ref=sr_1_1?sr=8-1
On my NC2 Touring, I have the Cipher and the Delrin. Check, check. I have a soft top so N/A there. In terms of pedals, the clutch extender is my favorite by far. I was able to move my seat back for more leg room and still operate the clutch perfectly. Still stock on the radio but love that one. NEED seat covers desperately! But not until I replace the torn top. 👍
While I like and respect FM's products, I find aero products in general, installed on a street Miata , silly and "Ricky-roadracerish" at best. I would recommend instead attending a driving school. And you know what they say about bellybuttons and opinions😁
@@FlyinMiataVideo Do the fenders need to be rolled for that setup? Just to clarify, when you say above 225, you mean 225 wouldn't be enough width and that 235 is essentially the minimum width to get?
Cant wait! Just got a 2015 hard top GT with 24K miles! Was looking at the BBR kit but the price is just insane for their kit. So glad you kept chassis drilling to a minimal too. I will still feel terrible drilling into my chassis though for this kit lol. (Edit: Will there be multiple options for BOV’s as well? Im a stickler for blow off noises!)
Good question! We had to combine some of our BIG brains around here to make sure we covered all scenarios. At a given performance level and if you don't go any faster with the benefits of your added grip, your tires will last longer because they're scrubbing less. There are many qualifiers here, but I think you get the picture.
Hey guys! I would like to know what are tour thoughts on ATI vs Fluidampr Especially in a a high RPM oriented build, but also just general comparaison... Thank's in advance
We've only offered the ATI brand but I have heard from customers running the Fluidampr. I can't compare the two since I've never dealt with the Fluidampr. We heavily suggest the improved damper on 300whp+ street cars and really any car that will be seeing sustained high RPM like a track prepped car.
My girl has a 1999 Mx 5 needs brakes disk .. On your link can't find rebuilding caliper kits.? I had a job 17 yrs old we go to the junkyard collect as many calipers. break em down acid bath/ nutrialize and rebuild em. 1 cal. $ 3,00 sold for $30.oo ++ thx.
I have a 2012 Doge Journey the mechanic tells me I probably will need a timing belt change I don't know anything about cars but he says it's very dangerous if belt brakes it will be very costly cause he will break the engine is thi true. Thank you if somebody can help me on this situation it's hard to fine or thrust a good mechanic.
Miata engines are non-interference, meaning if the timing belt snaps you'll still be stuck on the side of the road, but repairs won't be as costly or damaging to the motor as an interference engine would.
Thank you sir. You just educated me that my friends wheels are for show and not functioning performance. Does stock 25 lbs wheel upgraded to a lighter 18 lbs make a big difference in rotational mass and makes it easier for the engine to work less? Same exact wheel spec btw and not a miata.
Yeah, I think you should notice a 7 lb difference at each corner but it varies a lot per driver. I'll probably change my mind if you said this was a full size truck and you only use it to pull a trailer.
Explains why I can't get repair parts for my Supercharged Flyin Miata "Targa Newfoundland" model. been looking high and low for a Thermostat housing that goes behind my Supercharger... car with over $25K in upgrades has been in the shop for six months trying to source the part that FM sold with the original Targa Newfoundland kit. I do appreciate the transparency, but damn, I miss my car.... and can't believe I may have to pull the supercharger so I can drive it again.
Sorry you’re having trouble. The manufacturer stopped making those parts, it was out of our control and had nothing to do with what’s discussed in this video. If you contact our customer service team, we’ll do our best to help you out.
Will they destroy your alternator? I have read that when the BMS disconnects the load on a full lifepo4 battery the alternator output skyrockets to 100V or more in a millisecond and blows the rectifying diodes
Hmm, we haven't heard of that before but since we only work on Miatas, you might ask Antigravity directly for a bigger picture on all available platforms.