@@MrBobHaley same procedure.

@@StephenStrangways thank you. Do you have the link with the software or is it the same?

@@MrBobHaley same link.

also I am wondering if there are any forums or facebook groups related to these transmissions from where I can get inspired. There are not so many shops that are willing to fix these transmissions, and the ones that do, charge an enormous amount. so at first I wanna try to fix it myself, but I need to get informed beforehand.

If the brake pedal were not pressed at all, the teach-in would give an error and refuse to proceed. It's just a safety thing, to make sure if the trans accidentally engages that the car won't jump forward, and doesn't affect the effectiveness of the procedure. My first thought is that maybe the previous owner got a used mechatronic that is now starting to fail, or they got it rebuilt by an incompetent shop, as there far more shops that think they know what they're doing but actually don't then there are good ones.

@@nemethiraymond2156 the ATSG guide on the transmission, a PDF file, is the best info on the transmission out there. The shops that actually know what they're doing aren't sharing much info, and most of the amateur driveway mechanics trying to fix them aren't sharing much info either, not that you'd be able to trust it all anyway.

No access to the internet needed to use the software.

@@StephenStrangways Thank you so much for replying!!

If you have P2809, your valve body has failed. You'll need to replace the mechatronic unit.

Very odd. I'm on my second set of GS-1 street pads, and I've never had a problem in 7 years. If you got grooves in brand-new rotors after 4 months, something has gone terribly wrong. Did it happen to the rotors on both sides of the car? Just front, or front and back? What rotors?

I've been running G-Loc pads daily, and on the track, for 7 years with no issues, and I know many others doing the same. Were the rotors on your corvette new, or freshly turned, when you first swapped to the G-Loc pads?

They were new. If you search g loc brake noise on RU-vid you will see a similar issue to mine, many have this issue unfortunately.

@@evanphotography5149 are you referring to the "R8 brake pad noise on street" video? Yes, track pads are noisy. That's why they also make quiet pads for the street. What was the problem you had with your rotors?

Calm down idiot

UPPERCASE SPASTIC. CHILL YOUR BEANS.

You're going to need a shop that specializes in the SST to open it up and rebuild it. Where do you live?

The Mitsubishi Factory Service Manual just says it's "not used." Some shops believe it can cause problems, especially if the trans is cooler than maximum temperature for the teach-in, so they never touch it. Other shops use it for diagnostic purposes: if shift fork teach in fails, they'll do an interlock teach in, then back to shift fork, and it usually passes. If both fail, it indicates a mechanical problem with the transmission.

Was it just rebuilt recently, and you're having these problems after it was installed back in the car, or was it rebuilt some time, was working fine, and just started having these problems recently?

@@StephenStrangways yeah after the rebuild it’s never work correctly,,, I guess they couldn’t get it to work

@@StephenStrangways so it has a solid reverse,,, it only goes forward if you start the car and right away put it in gear it will roll forward ,,,And then lose engagement

From what they told me,,,They replace the wet clutches to fix the magnet on the shift forks with special glue,,, they supposedly went through the whole unit!!! So they told me it could be a program issue!!! But I can’t be too sure I’m thinking about open the unit up myself,, I just wanted to confirm that this wasn’t a program or computer issue

@@tyrellwilliams3814 well first of all, gluing the magnet back on the shift fork won't work for very long. It should have been replaced with a better shift fork, like the one from Dodson. So it sounds like you went to a shop that doesn't really know what they're doing. Second, the magnet must be very precisely placed, and its position does need to be calibrated with a MUT-III, which it sounds like they didn't do. To be honest with you, it's a rather difficult transmission to work with, so your average transmission shop can't do it properly, most transmission shops that specialize in dual-clutch transmissions can't do it properly, and even some shops who claim to specialize in the SST are liars and cheats and can't do it properly. There have been many cases of people taking their cars back to a shop half a dozen times over a year and never getting their SST running right, until they eventually get it to a shop that actually knows what they're doing. What country do you live in?

If it was driven for a long time with an exhaust leak, some of the self-learning features of the ECU and TCU would have adjusted to it. After fixing it, they'll need time to re-learn, but a teach-in for the trans could indeed help. A bad tune could also cause shifting issues, and it's not unusual for cars to be tuned for aftermarket parts that the owner removes before selling the car, which can cause even bigger problems like overboosting and running lean. Different years of transmissions had either 2 or 3 drain holes, but it makes no practical difference.

@@StephenStrangways thank you for the info, while i am fixing the turbo exhaust leaks i am also putting all the stock parts back on and getting it flashed back to a stock tune, hopefully after that and a teach in and fluid change it all comes together

@@Gilligan.Garage the one thing people often miss that can cause a lot of problems is the boost controller. You really don't want an aftermarket 3-port EBCS with the stock tune. It's also a good idea to replace the relays if they haven't been done recently.

Never mind... You 're trying to show how mechanical shutter of this camera works, if it is viewed by a camera that can shoot at this speed. Not that Yi M1 has this capability!

A teach-in definitely won't solve it. If the physical linkage to shift in and out park is connected, but there is no gear display and no gears are engaging, check the wiring harness connections. If they are okay, it may be that the mechatronic/TCU has failed and will need to be replaced.

@@StephenStrangways thanks for reply

Try doing a single teach-in, in the order 1, 7, 4, 5, 8 Which shop rebuilt it?

It's only specifically required after changing the clutch basket or valve body, but it does seem to help to do it once every few years. As most people change their SST fluid (don't forget to do the rear diff fluid at the same time, and the transfer case twice as frequently!) Once every two years, it just seems like an easy to way to remember to do it, if you do it with every fluid change.

After installing the program, you need to overwrite the file ptc32.dll in the program directory with the version of the file that is on Google Drive. Be sure to read and follow the PDF which has instructions for making registry changes to install the program in the correct directory, or it won't work at all.

@@StephenStrangways thanks

It is normal for the transmission to upshift automatically, even in manual mode, when it is very cold. Once it reaches operating temperature, which can take 20 minutes in the summer and 40 minutes in the winter, it should not be doing it. If it is doing it while warm, a teach-in will not help with that. One possible cause is a bad tune, or the car was tuned with mods installed that the previous owner removed before trading the car in, so the tune doesn't match what it is on the car now, and it will need to be re-tuned. If it's not that, it could be that the transmission is heading towards failing, and a rebuild from a trusted shop is going to be $2500-6500, a replacement from a dealership $10000-13000, so if you have any sort of warranty from the dealership, you want to get this sorted before it expires.

@@StephenStrangways oh god 🙏 I got it private and it has the Cobb stage 3 kit installed and the Cobb port to go with it ? That all I really starting loving this car.if I do the teach-in will it help it? Or make it worsen it or do nothing you think?

@@ryankuiack2235 a teach-in certainly can't hurt, so it's worth trying, but it's not all that likely to fix the problem. The Cobb OTS maps are TERRIBLE for the Evo MR because they increase power without making any changes to the transmission tables to help the clutches hold the extra power, so it just shreds the clutches. What you really need is a proper custom tune from someone who actually understands the SST transmission, and that may reduce the clutch slip you are experiencing now. Hopefully it wasn't driven too hard for too long with the Cobb setup, because if it was, there probably isn't much clutch material left.

Well I hope so I'm wondering if I can Flash it back to stock ? With all the mods it has and do a teach in? And that would save it tell I can get a pro tune done

I deeply appreciate you help and time I can find a clear answer for anything to save my life I get alot of just trade it and get a gsr lol

Follow the Google Drive link in the description. There is a PDF there, "TC-SST Flash_Reflash Guide.pdf" that explains how to modify the files, and what directories you need to put them in.

If the car is not parked on level ground it can fail clutch vent, or if the vent itself (top of the transmission, near the fill hole near the battery tray) is blocked it can fail, but the most common cause is the transmission was over-filled with fluid, which is blocking the vent. Many people, even techs at dealerships, misunderstand the fluid quantity, and they drain 5.5 L then read the "dry fill" specs and put 7.5 L in, which over-fills the transmission by 2 L.

@@StephenStrangways I'll try to check the fluid tonight and retry again Thanks

@@StephenStrangways how do I check the fluid level? Or it's better for me to just drain out and refilled with 5.5L? Thanks

@@RecreationAutomotiveGarage officially: drain it, measure it, put it back in. Unofficially: there is a check plug, but it's only designed to work in the Outlander, so in a Lancer, you need a hex key that fits perfectly (possibly modified) between the plug and frame rail, and when parked on level ground, it will drain any excess fluid out, but it won't help you if it's under-filled.

Click on step 7, then click the downward triangle that's just to the right.

If a year or two has passed since the last teach-in, it would be a good idea to do a teach-in before a tune, and most importantly, drive the car for a while afterwards, at least a day or two, before the tune. When you perform the "reset clutch gain" function, it takes a while afterwards for the clutch gain to re-learn a good, lower setting during normal driving. If you don't give it time to re-learn during driving, it will have greater than normal clutch pressure, so if it's tuned like that just to the point where it doesn't slip, and the transmission later learns a lower clutch pressure, it could start to slip then.

@@StephenStrangways I'm having A LOT of work done, built block and header, all bolt ons, new turbo, fuel pump, injectors.... I don't want to drive it a lot before the tune. At the same time, it hasn't been driven since 1/26/20, that's when the engine failed.

@@audilicous then personally I would not do a teach-in before the tune.

You need a cable that connects to the OBD-II port and supports the j2534 pass-thru protocol. The Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable is an expensive choice but very reliable, and also allows you to do a lot more with Evos and Ralliarts. Beware of cheap knock-off cables from eBay, Amazon, and Aliexpress.

You need to have the TI_info.tipart file in the XML folder, and AMT_17800000_000204_dio30_C.cbf in the CBF folder. If there any "generic" CBF files in that folder, just delete them - they can sometimes interfere.

@@StephenStrangways I just did the teach in and made some progress but I got an abnormal end on boost teach in

@@koolzero007 sometimes PassThru CAN just has a glitch and needs to be uninstalled and reinstalled. I end up doing it about once a month and it always solves communications errors.

@@StephenStrangways I wonder if the trans gets too hot that it might cause an abnormal end? I’ll try it again later tonight and make sure the temp is closer to 40degrees.

@@koolzero007 it definitely can. The transmission must be between 40-80 degrees Celsius during the entire procedure, and because the temperature will rise during the process, I never start it if the transmission is above 70, to allow for that.

It's in the video description.

@@StephenStrangways After clicking the link in the description it says I don't have access.

@@Teddingtin I just heard of that happening to someone else yesterday, so the person who created that shared Google Drive may have recently changed it from "public" to requiring approval to access it, or perhaps that happened automatically after too many people accessed it.

@@StephenStrangways If you still have access to the files do you think you could reupload them?

@@Teddingtin I have sent a message to the person who created the files and the Google Drive folder to see what we can do.

Yes, that is one of the many cables you can use to do this.

@@StephenStrangways oh okay thank you!

subbed! :)

is the 3000 temp for transmission important though? How do i warm it up?..

@@rigo117x7 the temperature is super important - if the transmission is too hot or too cold, the steps of the teach-in will always fail, and it won't tell you exactly why it failed. Warm it up by driving it! City driving is the best, as cruising on the highway in a single gear won't warm it up much. Use EvoScan on your laptop to check the temperature.

Is your Ralliart transmission working, and you just want to get S-Sport and Launch Control? If so, you can flash the firmware for the Evo transmission to the Ralliart transmission, and you will get those features. Instructions for doing that are in the PDF on the Google Drive link that is in the video description. If you have a laptop and cable but want someone else to connect remotely and do it for you, this company will do it: www.nrgops.com/product/remote-sst-passthru-can/

No, not at all. The tune is on the ECU, but the teach-in process is performed by the TCU - completely separate computers.

Follow the instructions on the last page of the TC-SST Flash_Reflash Guide.pdf

According to Mitsubishi's factory service manuals, interlock teach-in and line pressure test are "available but not used." As far as I know, nobody has ever found a use for them.

@@StephenStrangways do you know if 2015 SST flash files will work on a 2010 SST?

@@funkyd04 yes, it has been tested by several really good shops like Kozmic and WTF, and they recommend always flashing the newest TCU firmware, for the 2011-2015 cars, no matter what year your is.

Shift fork failing is not a good sign. It can mean a loose magnet that is about to fall off. Do you ever have a problem with your transmission skipping gears, like changing from 1st to 3rd, skipping second?

@@StephenStrangways no problems at all, it is built. Last teach in I did in April everything came out good

@@NoBoostloading that is odd... but if everything is working fine with the transmission, you're good to keep driving it! Did you try repeating the shift fork teach-in step? Sometimes it can take a few tries before it works properly. Just make sure the transmission temperature is still within the proper range, as it heats up during the process.

@@StephenStrangways actually just tried it again right now and everything came out good, no idea why that one gave me trouble but we are all good now, that’s for the help!

@@NoBoostloading I'm glad to hear it worked! It's one of those things that can be a bit glitchy sometimes, so don't worry about it failing the first time. If all gears are working fine, then everything is alright with your transmission.

It's from the original Four Thirds system, before Micro Four Thirds. It's the Olympus E-3 with 12-60mm f/2.8-4.

Only 2008 Evos needed a firmware update to be able to do a teach-in, so none is needed on a 2013. And before you pay for PassThru CAN, check the Google Drive link in the description of this video and read the PDF.

@@StephenStrangways sweet thank you! Great video by the way

All the files you need can be found in the Google Drive folder that there is a link to in the description of this video.

Those .flpart files are only needed to flash new firmware. They are not needed for teach-in. Also, that dio301 file should NEVER be used to flash firmware, only the dio30 file. If you have the dio301 file you got it from an outdated link to an abandoned Google Drive folder. The current one is linked in the description of this video.

You can easily play the DOS version through your browser here: archive.org/details/msdos_BattleTech_-_The_Crescent_Hawks_Inception_1988 You can also download the C64 version and an emulator, which only requires a bit more effort to get running.

Remove the two "GENERIC..." files from the CBF folder, then download "AMT_17800000_000204_dio30_C.cbf" from the Google Drive link and place it in that folder.