Inspiring you to build it, pack up, and camp out. I am not a professional, but I do enjoy working on trucks and going camping. Follow us to view tips and tricks, trail reviews, and see some great 4x4 trips.
Wondering why you didn't go with the NSV light bar that is designed to mount inside the plastic hood bulge. I didn't have to cut any metal on the truck, it literally takes the place of the black plastic inset you removed.
I am sorry, but you have so many errors in this video you need to take it down. First, your drawing does not show the actual breakover angle. As others have pointed out, if you look at Wikipedia, you will see the correct drawing and the correct angle. Second, all you math is wrong, and you are basing it off the wrong angle anyway. You have had this misinformation up for 6 years, completely misleading people who come here looking for help, and from your responses below, you have known this for at least 5 years. Please remove it and if you want, redo it correctly.
This was really the only vid I could find in how to unstick a bound up winch cable. I was janking away at it for some time, took a break, went at it again.... Finally I go for some help here but all the other vids were CRAP. I hooked a chain onto the grapple hook at the end and hung it off the trailer and stood on it with my foot thropugh the chain and BANG !!! BABY !! She came loose ! I couldn't believe it, this worked well - I guess tugging is a lot less force than weight and gravity. THANK YOU 4 years old video dude.
Jimmy, I like your presentation overall; however, according to Toyota, it is not recommended to use the crossmember bar. They say to use the rubber bushing right behind the skid plate. I didn't catch the year of your truck. It may not even be on that year; however, it's in 2012.
Thanks for the info, and good presentation as well. Good stuff. My 97 T100 is the first torsion bar suspension I've owned. And the driver side sits a bit lower than the passenger side. This should fix it I believe. Maybe raise both sides a bit while I'm at it.
CAUTION!! On the rear install, you have the order of washer/dampeners wrong. It should be the hard-dull washer first, dampener, thin washer (bulge up!), then in the truck bracket - Finish with the other dampener and the other plated thick washer. Otherwise good video.
I know this is off topic and you probably don't own this vehicle anymore but I was curious which roof rake you have on the 4runner I was interested installing the KC light bar and how you did it?
Thanks for the tip, I have an Izusu pick up truck. Recently I took the pick up to alignment shop and was told that the bearings were slack or loose. The truck was taken to the mechanic to be tightened but, based on the observations from technicians it was still loose and now the driving experience is that truck feels wobbly when driving.
Thanks I was looking on a way to remove mine and knowing how it goes on I can now remove the lift, Is there anything I need to know before taking the lift out ?
What do I do with the positive wire to the blinker light? Sorry not very electrically inclined. Just making sure I can dangle it or if Im suppose to trace it to the origin back to the power source and remove it. Thank you!
and is it necessary to do the module? The fast blinking doesn't bother me but just want to make sure its not an electrical issue which is why you do the resistor module
It's a lot easier to break the 10mm fitting nut loose if you leave the retaining clips in place. The brake line fitting still needs to be supported from the hose side, but having those clips in place prevents the loose line from being a moving target.