I have a DCC-EX setup with an Android tablet and EngineDriver. It runs beautifully, operates 20+ servo point motors, 20+ Dapol semaphore signals and has automation using over 30 hall effect sensors. No PC or JMRI in sight. Superb results for last 18 months. I set out to avoid commercial kit, avoid a PC and avoid JMRI. All achieved.
When I did the layout I built the scenery around the track though you are right I could have laid the track base, built the scenery and then installed the track (though installing the wiring might have been a bit more fiddly).
I have two DCC-EX setups. One uses Arduino Motor Shield REV3 while the second one uses the EX-MotorShield8874 RevA and all use the 20 x4 display. They work fine accept the display for EX-MotorShield8874 RevA doesn’t work, it lights up but I get no text. Both displays work’s fine when hooked to the Arduino Motor Shield REV3. The only thing I can figure is that the EX-MotorShield8874 RevA is marked wrong (SDA and SCL is reversed) Can you please help!
Hi David. I am not sure. I just have two coaches at the moment which it manages without any issues. I would expect it to pull at least 4 but as a couple of the curves are a bit tight it might struggle.
I’ve fitted the decoder, programmed it and got the sounds working. I use the Roco Z21 command station in conjunction with iTrain. But also use the Z21 app on my iPad to program the loco. when I tried it on my test layout it struggled a bit and when I tapped on the engine sound it cut out and I got a red light on the Z21 denoting a short. Now I can’t even reset it because as soon as I place it on the layout or program track it cuts out. Doh!
Right I’ve run it under DC again with the Hornby chip and it’s fine. Placed the Zimo back in and at least it’s not tripping the Z21 now 😄 would you know if CV 1 the Short Address is the actual loco address? So in my case does it need to be set to number 4 as that’s my shunter address. Ta
Glad there’s been progress. Not sure I fully understand the question, sorry. CV1 holds the short address and can be any value 1 to 127 (as a default it is set to 3) so can be set to 4 if that is what you need. The value in CV1 will be used to address commands to the decoder, if short address is being used by the command station. CVs 17 & 18 are used for the long address but CV 29 (bit 6 if I remember correctly) also has to be set to 1 to enable long addressing. Having said that I have a feeling I’ve not answered your question so apologies.
@@AndrewH561 thanks Andrew ever little helps. I’m trying to set my locos address which is 4. I’ve tried using the Z21 app on my iPad and using Itrain on the app it doesn’t seem to stick as 4. It’s a steep learning curve isn’t it lol
Hi Andrew I’m about to fit one of those decoders next week. Are the 4 screws the very 4 outer ones at the very end/edge of the chassis? Or are they the 4 that are just in from those? Are you a follower of Jesus by any chance as you have some very interesting books there? No need to answer that one 😄 Many thanks Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for the message. It is the 4 outer screws on the very edge of the chassis that release the body to get into the decoder space. And yes, you interpreted the books correctly, I am a follower of Jesus :-)
Great video, with very useful information. I started watching this last week, mainly out of curiousity after reading about the issue on the JMRI website. I have two of these wifi boards, I have only used one so far, without any issue and I am hoping the other one has the same firmware. I didn't realise until today when I saw the list of names from yesterday that we had briefly met. Dave
Thanks again for the comment. I've gone back and reviewed the video and have realised there are 2 points where a screenshot is missing and all that is shown is a black square 😞 Oh well will have to try and avoid that mistake in the future.
Awesome work... I was struggling a bit on this however this is a savior. Thanks a lot. It would be helpful to elaborate on choosing the ground pin on the WIFI shield or show exact location. On Makerfabs website the schematic shows pin 15 as GND hence bit confused.
Thanks for the comment. There are a couple of GRN pins on the Wifi shield. If you have the board with the makerfabs symbol in the bottom right hand corner (so the M is the correct way up) then the pins on the top edge are labels 0-13 (right to left) with pin 14 (which in fact is the 15th pin) marked as GRN. On the bottom set of pins GND is to the right of the 5V pin (in the bank of pins on the left side) and this is the GRN I used. Hope that helps.
Thanks @@AndrewH561, I was looking for the male pin you held when you were flashing the chip. I saw you were holding the bare male pin on one of the tiny contacts (I guess number 4) on the ESP-12F chip. I was keen to know that pin and how to identify it. Hope I am more clear this time.
Ah sorry I misunderstood. Yes it is pin 4 (counting from the left when the shield has the 'M' in the right hand corner).It is a bit fiddly as you have to keep in contact with that pin throughout the whole process. It took me a couple of goes the first time I tried it.
I fitted the non sound version of the Zimo decoder but with a Lais stay alive. This does make it a superb shunting loco as it can crawl along at very realistic speeds with no issues at all. I might revisit this fitting and put in sound, although I filled the front end of the body shell with lead shot to increase the weight so that would have to come out.
Thanks for that. I’ve recently bought an 08 shunter myself TT 120 and got a price for fitting decoder a stay alive which also included lights and two drivers in the cab and a front and rear light and they wanted £350 for doing that, so you might just be onto something 🤣 👌🎅🏻🚂
Well done! You said you would remove the blue wires for the stay alive, and by Jove you did! I was hoping you would leave a short length, just in case you changed your mind. Wishing you a very Merry Xmas and all best wishes for the New Year.
So my wi-fi shield now works! A tip for those who have purchased a 6 pin USB to Serial adapter you may to loop RTS to CTS (if you are old enough to remember serial ports on computers this will make perfect sense!)
Nicely done. My own hope is that somehow I can get the 6pin HM7k decoder (when it comes out!) and a stay alive into it. Not so fussed on sound but the power bank should make it super reliable for shunting.
Great work showing the update on the wifi board. I plan on going the other way as I have tried, owned and sold many of the comercial systems and moving everything to DCC-EX.
Have been following and enjoying your command station DCC -EX articles. Using a Windows pc, I have installed, loaded and tested the v3.85, but would like to load v2.3. When I select v2.3 on the (available here) DCC-EX site it takes me to the ESPRESSIF website. I downloaded "Flash_Download_Tool_v2.3_150916.rar. " When I try to open it, I get a red X in a circle and the following: The file does not have an app associated with it for performing this action. Please install an App of if one is already installed, create an association in default apps setting page. Can you please tell me what I'm doing wrong or missing?
Morning. What version of Windows do you have. On Windows 11 the file can be opened with File Manage and then extracted. However I also use the NCH Express Zip File Compression Software, which is able to handle several of the compression formats (e.g. rar, zip, tar). If you install the NCH app then you should be able to extract the v2.3 software.
That's the idea :-) The track is now all laid and although there are a couple of 'pinch' points where a slow moving train struggles (especially with carriages) in general it seems to work well. On to the scenery.
Thanks. The track is all laid now so it is on to the scenery. There are a couple of 'pinch' points where a slow moving train struggles but in general it all seems to be working :-)
Another good point :-) Hope your track laying is going well. Mine is a little frustrating at times as I am using the Peco Flexi track and while it is very good I sometimes find fixing one end causes the other end to move more than I need it to :-) But still it is fun and hopefully I'll have a complete circuit in a week or so. Off to the NEC on Saturday so I expect I'll come back with lots of ideas.
I am also only using Peco flexi track. I stuck down the cork strips using copydex. Then use some pvc glue not too much to hold the track in place. Weigh it down and let it dry before adding the next section. Then test with a locomotive. The glue allows me to easily adjust as needed. Do a couple of sections every day. Not the fastest method.
There is enough of a gap between sleepers to solder. Cut away the plastic, use some flux and tin the track and wire. Using a single core makes it easier, just bend with the wire pointing out.
I'm guilty of collecting locomotive and doing not much else. I wasn't aware of f2 and f29, which makes no sense in a vehicle the brake is next to the accelerate, and it would make for a better configuration of functions. I use the Z21, which allows me to more f29 next to f2. That said, it still means both need to be activated. Let's hope Accurascale does not do the same for the Class 50.
I agree, having the two functions made no sense to me which is why I modified F2 to actually slow the loco down (which also meant I could ignore F29). I also needed to have the brake function activated using one of the functions in the range F1 to F28 as I am using the Engine Driver App on an old Android phone and it can only show 28 functions. Of course as more 'functions' are utilised it means Apps will need to adapt but I also expect Accurascale to be more mindful when setting up their decoders.
Hello, had you considered selling as a working layout. Someone would have purchased it, possibly me. I wonder how much you would have valued it. Such a lovely layout and worth far more than the sum of the parts.
@@AndrewH561 I saw you did that. Well done for a delicate break down. Keep those parts and hope the new build is even better. I have been through this myself with my father just before he passed away. I didn't have space to take it all so one day we got together and dismantled it all. We had fun though. Remembering all the intricate work that was unseen and forgotten about. Thanks for the video, much appreciated.
Thanks for the encouragement. It wasn't easy to take the decision to take the layout down as I enjoyed building it and using it. However, it was always an 'experiment' to see if I was capable of putting something together and I think I am ready to build the next layout (once I can find the time to get into it).
