There are several methods available for joining metals, including brazing and soldering. What is the difference between brazing and soldering? Let’s explore the distinctions plus comparative advantages as well as common applications. This discussion will deepen your understanding of metal joining and help you identify the optimal approach for your application. HOW BRAZING AND SOLDERING WORK Brazing and soldering join materials, usually metals, together by flowing a filler metal into the joint. In both cases the filler metal has a lower melting point than the base metals being joined. And for both metal joining processes, capillary, or the ability of a liquid to be drawn through a narrow gap, is the driving force. Gaps can vary, but in general they tend to be in the range of .002-.005" for best results. So what is the difference between brazing and soldering? The American Welding Society (AWS) defines brazing as a group of joining processes that produce coalescence of materials by heating them to the brazing temperature and by using a filler metal (solder) having a liquidus above 840°F (450°C) and below the solidus of the base metals. Soldering has the same AWS definition as brazing, except that the filler metal used has a liquidus below 840°F (450°C) and below the solidus of the base metals. Soldering can be considered the low-temperature cousin to brazing. Comparative Advantages. Although there are similarities between brazing and soldering, the temperature difference between the processes yields different behavior. Base metals involved in soldering are typically stronger than the solder itself; under the stress and fatigue of service, failure may occur through the solder joint. This means a that a soldered assembly may exhibit less joint strength and lower fatigue resistance than a brazed assemb
Just some added details to avoid confusion and buying the wrong stuff.... There are basically two ways of joining metal using heat - welding and soldering. WELDING entails heating the "parent" metal of both parts to be joined until they melt and flow together (usually adding filler material in the form of welding rods). The most common types of WELDING are "Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW or stick)", "MIG" and "TIG". WELDING is mostly confined to joining like metals (steel to steel, stainless to stainless, cast iron to cast iron, aluminium to aluminium, etc) but can be used for dissimilar metals - if you really know what you're doing....! SOLDERING differs very much from welding in that the parent metals are not melted but only heated sufficiently for (a) the SOLDER to melt and (be) for rmetallurgical bonds to form between the solder and the parent metals. (Essentially a sort of "gluing" process with the solder being the glue). The term "soldering" originally referred to the PROCESS itself irrespective of what metal was used as the "solder". It didn't really matter what it was as long as (a) its melting temperature was less than that of either parent metal and (b) it was metallurgically compatible. However, over time the term "soldering" has become associated with the joining of NON-FERROUS metals (copper, brass, bronze, gold, silver, etc) mostly using various alloys of lead, copper, tin, silver, gold and even ALUMINIUM as solder. Because joining of ferrous metals by means of a SOLDERING (as opposed to WELDING - see above) process has typically been done using a copper based alloy (brass or bronze brazing rods) as solder this has been generally become known as brazing with the term "brazing rod" being reserved for the brass/bronze rods used.
Roger, Are you saying the cord always breaks or only when you invert it for edging, please? Otherwise, surely there is a fundamental fault with the trimmer and should go back to the maker? I had one come today, but not used it yet, but the ones I've seen have have a cord that's twisted, so much stronger as its several cords turned together. Would like an answer if you have time, please.
Looks a good repair. Not sure another ten years. Karrimor are not the best in my view. Leather walking shoes are ok for me. Trail shoes I have, some hop skip and run on odd off road running.
Thanks for the head's up regarding undoing the straps before folding for storage, also the repair tape & screw info. Cheers! It's a very sturdy gazebo BTW.
@@MrRoddersf1 Oh wow okay, I think I’ll look into an alternative I heard bicarbonate of soda & white vinegar works well but not sure! I don’t want to risk it with the spirit of salt just yet if it’s quite dangerous. Thank you for taking the time to reply
thank you mate. really good educational video. i learned from it quite a lot. I have had similar sound/nose from my Miele motor when I vacuum grout dust or drywall dust. This dust is too fine and it clogs paper bags until they burst inside the machine and the dust goes into the motor. I usually take the machine apart and wash every piece, especially the motor, with a hose in the garden. Then dry them all up and oil the motor. I have done this a few times over the years. Works well as long as you dry the motor very quickly before it gets rusty. Obviously never switch the machine on until all pieces are really dry.
Unfortunately topeak seems to have built several incompatible units all called "joeblow", even the specific model like this one "joeblow sport". Mine is probably closer to 10 years old and it doesn't have the same head design.
When I lift the handle of my door the sliding "bolts" at the edge of the door dont move, nor will the lock engage. Please assist me on where I should look for assistance. (I have looked but dont find the answer. Maybe old age is dulling my perception). Thanking in advance.
I saw this title and immediately thought "this is going to be dumb." But I thought I'd watch the video first to double check. And... yeah. dumb. 1. "Peripheries". - Peripherals*. 2. Cigarette lighter sockets are generally not active when the vehicle is off. You, in fact, demostrated this. 3. Q: Why does it matter that your vehicle is electric? A: ...it doesn't. 4. "Norton safe search". Gave up there.
Nice one. Just had same issue i.e. the washers on either side weren't great but weren't the issue. Issue is the internals get chewed up over time, maybe because the metal corrodes and then wears the plastic. Also, word to the wise if you do dissasseble the head, as you did with the screwdriver, the shaft of the little lever is very soft metal and liable to snap.......don't ask. Easiest option is a new head £12, rather than wasting time with the washer service kit....£4.......again, dont ask..Cheers.
Thank you very much my friend, on the way home watching this after our little fella threw up all over himself..... Very useful video, I was going to extraction clean the seat in sitiu, but this, and chucking it into the wash is far better!
Good afternoon, I'm having to harvest my chestnuts with their burs still intact. Do you have a suggestion on how to keep them so they continue their process of the the bur splitting etc.? thank you
