Really need some help here. Been in all the forums getting conflicting replies. 83 FXSB 1340 brand new regulator putting out 14.58 fully revved. Is that gonna cook my agm battery? Guy's saying 14.4 should be the max. The old lead acid batteries can handle the higher voltage but the agm batteries will cook over 14.5? Thank you in advance
AGMs are tougher than you think and you rarely run wide open for any length of time. AGMs charge at 14.4-15 volts during cycle charging (normal charging as we know it. Fast then the regulator kicks in) 13.5-13.8 Float charging which is an intermittent charging more like battery tender. Lead acid is more forgiving to over charging, but unless you have a bad regulator you're ok with the higher voltage. Check the voltage at 2500 and fully charged also allow time to charge from starting load. Crank it ride around come back and check it
@@davebrunson125 Thank you for response. Free guys in the forums putting out misinformation saying my regulator was bad for charging over 14.4 so I was trying to get some facts here. Much appreciated.
This is really appreciated because I had no really good way to do this and for the hydraulic is probably the easiest ways most people will say 12 flats but marker is a great way.
Harley Davidson did NOT use C.D.I. ignition Sir. Kawasaki Triple cylinder 2 stroke engines from the 70z did, and dirt bikes from the same Era, used a Magneto supported C.D.I., which didn't require a D.C. battery. C.D.I. stands for, Capacitor Discharge Ignition, not found on a Harley Davidson. T.S. RACING I.
At 49:30 you say to make sure the timing marks are aligned Since the adapter plate only goes on one way how is there ANY room for error as long as you are not in neutral?
Good video! Turned out I didn’t have play at the clutch arm ( checked on the right side). Last year I had crunchy shifts ( the plates were clinging together from gunky oil residue). After cleaning plates and adjusting as you demonstrated the clutch works great!
I have been looking for this video for quite some time... but could never find it. Luckily RU-vid recommended it to me. It might be a good idea to change the title to something more specific... and hit it with all the search tags you can. Thanks so much for uploading this!
Dude, you do know that when you used the socket to tighten the adjuster nut, the adjuster screw also tightened as well. Look at the adjuster screw slot @3:57, then look at the adjuster screw slot @4:10. When adjusting a clutch that is a significant difference.
1:07:46 *INCORRECT: Kick Start Gear nut torque is 30-40 ft/lbs. We ruined 3 nuts with this misinformation. 50-60 ft/lbs is too much. Otherwise this video is dead on.
I ruined a shaft from this misinformation. The kicker shaft and the countershaft are both said (in this video) to be 50-60 ft lbs, I would not go over the 30 ft lbs, as you will strip the shaft - a costly repair!
My OEM Harley Service Manual for 1970 - early 1978 Electra Glide and Super Glide (HD part no. 99482-78) have the countershaft nut torque spec = 55-65 ft-lbs (page 1-5), and the kick starter crank nut torque spec = 50-60 ft-lbs (page 4-9). That torque spec might be too much depending on the source/manufacturer of the shafts... For example if the shaft is from Andrews, the threads could probably handle more torque than if the shaft is from V-Twin.
