This happened to me I turned my car on one day and heard an awful noise it wasn’t a squeaking sound but more like rubbing sound. I turned the car off immediately not to cause more damage. Took a look under the hood all the pulleys were on the belt minus the crank pulley I saw the belt jumped a couple of teeth on the crank then I looked closer with a flashlight and saw the crank was moving away from the engine block there was a gap. Got the car towed to a shop and they fixed it. They told me the bolt was worn from age and they put a new bolt in and a new belt there was no oil leaking either I thought that was so strange because these bolts are they not put on very tight.

I’d rather be able to get the old plug out and save the threads instead of battling it and then have crusty threads or need to chase threads and risk metal entering the cylinder.

Can you use it if your ac/ heat doesn’t work?

none of these options will work when the fucking vehicle won't start because of this code.

I used your product and sure enough within minutes it stopped the leak but a week later started leaking again should I continuously work ceiling holes

K

Thread chaser cleaner is the ONLY good recommendation here! Don't ever overtighten your plugs, but a few pounds under when you add copper antiseize is perfectly fine(hand-tight usually)! No stripped threads and tight enough to stay put is the goal here, and guess who will NOT be there to tell you that you should've added anti-seize because they added a "anti-seize" coating but now your plugs have seized after 120k miles of driving!? You guessed it, the manufacturer!

drain plug gasket materials vary between manufacturers. As a DIY'er you can choose and the main choices are aluminum, copper, polyethylene and neoprene/epdm. I find the flared epdm gaskets require the least torque and the best seal, albeit it's a one time use design. Take note if the pan is steel or aluminum.... I'd rather have a small leak than stripped threads.

Nice 1 … I was about to copper slip them to the back of the pad

WRONG!!! Harley Davidson cylinder heads have been using aluminum heads. Aluminum metal and most spark plug metals are incompatible metal surfaces. Use a little "COPPER" antiseize! It is a common practice with every spark plug installed at the local Harley dealer in my area. Replacing or repairing a cylinder head sucks!

Brillant

my mechanic, Asian cars, owner of multiple shops, master at his trade without a doubt, i watched him pop a strip of antiseize on plugs and go to town. these were Denzo plugs, coated etc from memory. He said always put just a bit on, not much, as it will seep down onto the plug and cause issues if you gob it on. down spec the torque? i am not sure if he did but from my industrial experience, thread torque ratings always change vrs the type of thread dope you use so i would seriously consider taking the spec down to the greased spec which should be listed in your plug torque specs.

that why metal floating shims are things from the past,quality brake pads comes now with glued rubber shims

How to get rid of it with out software

Hello! I changed my spark plugs, but when I turn on my car, they shake a little than stabilized, I take a little ride and everything okay, but when I turn on next morning they shake a little then stabilized but comes to me a lot of error codes. Misfire in all cylinders, p0300, p03031…. And after the traction light pop up too. Could you help me to understand what is happening? I just changed the all spark plug. I used DENSO Iridium TT Spark Plug: Ultimate Endurance and Power, 0.4mm Iridium. My car : 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L

What is the difference between OAP and OAD??? Can we see the difference with eyes???

What is the difference between OAP and OAD??? Can we see the difference with eyes???

Can I use it on car bushing ?

Very informative video on your products. Gonna give it a try in an Internation 4700 with the DT466E engine that has an intermittent leak where the oil cooler mates to the water pump housing. Coolant is weeping past the o-ring.

I don't have any belt wear. However, my Alternator isn't charging the battery at a consistent rate. I took it to the shop. I got a call a few days later. The mechanic said that he suspects a harmonic balancer issue. I drive a 1992 Miata. I think it might have the original factory balancer. What do you think?

I was always told antiseize can result in accidental overtightening and stripping threads in aluminum heads since it contains a super slick molybdenum, zinc or silicone grease base. A lot of heads are aluminum nowadays and manufacturers are advising not too apply it for that reason. A blanket one size fits all solution. It's not needed or recommended for aluminum. If you have iron heads there shouldn't be a problem. But as stated new plug threads are coated and any corrosion that happens won't result in rust welding. It will be more of a powder I believe that's what the old schoolers are trying to convey. Old uncoated plugs plus iron heads can cause rust welding.

What kind of anti seize can you use ? Are nickel and cooper okay ?

Not true. The glued shims have flexible glue that will allow for tiny amount of flexing. They are better than the shims just put on with no adhesive because they will make noise as the shim and pad backing plate rub on each other. Just like a dry door hindge swueaking. Use brake grease between shim and backing plate and you'll never hear a noise.

My drain plug torque specs at 30 and I felt like I was over tightening

I've been using copper coat on spark plug threads all my long life. Torqued to mfg specs and never ever a problem. I see that using copper coat is actually better due to it's conductivity characteristics thus providing a better ground that a spark plug requires. I'm a firm believer that it's helpful all around when used on spark plugs.

can you please tell me its ok to use k seal in a 1600cc car because i have and the leak stopped but the heater does not work should i flush out the coolent with the k seal in it and fill with fresh coolent thanks

I can see why all the extra keys and apartment door unlock on the same ring would interfere with the car signal/fob. I would have never thought but, it makes total sense. Thanks

I messed up and filled the whole thing with that same grease is that why all of a sudden my truck dies on me? How do I safely get it out of the rubber part of the engine coil

Blah blah

Will this cause a code to light on my dashboard?

Great video ! What would be a cause and fix for a crankshaft pulley that sticks out too far causing belt misalignment?

Bs

Dual mass flywheels are trash.

Urine in the Mix

The only thing 90% of consumers are worried about is how to remove this junk from their vehicles…

I was tought eons ago in our shop class to use anti seize when similar metals are in contact. I've been using it ever since then and never an issue. Of course it effects the torque value - if you can't properly tighten a spark plug by hand, well...

Amen

This guy is wrong!! You don't want threads absorbing torque, thats insane, you want all the torque applied to the taper or crush washers. With todays aluminum heads you better use antiseize, especially with plugs lasting 100,000 now

As long as you keep it on the threads and not the tapered seat of the plug it will still make a good ground and still have the benefits of never pulling the threads out of your heads, especially on aluminum heads.

This is great and all but how do you replace the boots the boots are trash not gonna lie they only lasted 16 days

I applied red Locktite to them. Is that going to be an issue?

very helpful thank you.

Useless video ngl

The cartridge filter is cheaper to produce....but guess what, often not cheaper to buy, PROFIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you need to use a torque wrench or just run then down to the crush ring and give er a little more?

@romeparrilla8307 0 seconds ago PLEASE HELP ME,I was wrong,i did applied Anti-Seize On Spark Plug Threads ON MY 2001 TOYOTA TACOMA ,ITS RUNNING FINE BUT SO IS IT TOO LATE FOR ME TO REMOVE THE PLUGS AND CLEAN IT OUT THANK YOU VERY MUCH

PLEASE HELP ME,I was wrong,i did applied Anti-Seize On Spark Plug Threads,ITS RUNNING FINE BUT SO IS IT TOO LATE FOR ME TO REMOVE THE PLUGS AND CLEAN IT OUT THANK YOU VERY MUCH

Thanks for the info, I got two cars with the same engine. One stock, and one custom. I’d like to use the same filter since they use the same oil. Should make it a bit easier for me.

Another great presentation Andrew!!

I think anti-seize got a bad reputation from folks over-applying it, like tooth paste. Don't use that giant, splayed brush. Just put a tiny dab on your fingertip to apply. Also being an EE, this dude says, "With today's high voltage ignition systems..." or something like that. Uhm, the higher the voltage, the more easily the current can pass from the head to the plug shell. That makes no sense.