Great video , I have a 350 Eco. Van with a mild rough idle and intermediate cut out ( like I’m cutting power to the ignition coil) already R&R’d all secondary ignition components , distributor pickup coil and ign. module.. with zero change . I’m going to try this cap. R&R , Thanks !
Hi Rudy, thanks for your question. To be honest I do not know. I researched my issue and found multiple forum threads that indicated the leaky capacitors as the cause. I finally jumped in and took you all for the ride. I suggest a Google search might result in others that have had similar issues and their solutions. Good luck!
Ecu has nothing to do with temperature or other warning gauges. The temperature sending unit operates the gauge . Similarly the oil pressure sending unit operates the oil pressure gauge. The coolant temperature sensor tells computer what temperature coolant is . Air charge temperature sensor tells computer the intake air temperature . The map sensor for intake for intake vacuum . And maf sensor for air flow on maf systems. Remember sensors work with computer, sending units work with gauges
Rudy, You may have a failed open thermostat. I had that happen on my f250hd 5.8L, you can order thermostats as a failed open, failed closed or Std. make sure you get a gasket and sealant, scrape the surfaces clean and remember which end was in the motor side of the housing when reinstalling or just take a picture while taking it apart.
One addition/correction: At about 2:30 into the video- The intermediate/ 2nd generation cores have the key number stamped on the end opposite where the key is inserted rather than just on the key itself.
@@charlenec.1177 there is a RU-vid video showing a person that had success doing it but I ended up buying a used set on eBay and just have two different keys
Some of them you can just unscrew that bolt that extends out when you rotate the cylinder. mine is just a phillips head. Then you remove the sleeve and the core but you can access that lil tab much easier with a small piece of anything. Basically you don't have to drill out anything. Your video was incredibly useful! Thanks Kirk!
Hey, sorry for the delay. I don’t have experience with that engine, but I would imagine that the EEC would be in the same location and removed in the same way.
Hi Chris, Thanks for watching. I removed the conformal coating manually. I used a micro spatula and carefully scraped it back. There is most likely a better way, but this is what I did. The capacitors I purchased were: 2 ea., A9341, 47uf, 16V, electrolytic, 105 degrees 1 ea., A9332, 10uf, 43V, electrolytic, 105 degrees Please note that another viewer commented that I left the legs too long and they will be more prone to break. If I have to do this again I will take his advice and solder in the capacitors closer to the board. Good luck. Kirk
@@actionj2k6 una pregunta en que parte esta uvicada Esa parte tengo una 97 Ford f350 5.8 XLT y ocupo Saber donde esta uvicada Esa parte alomejor me puedes ayudar Gracias
@@wilfredomaldonado1779 Hello Wilfredo, if I understand correctly you are asking where the computer is on a 97 F350. This I do not know. I believe that 97 is a newer generation.
When you installed the lock wrong, were you able to get the key in all the way? I just bought a used rack and the key won’t go all the way in on 2 locks.
Kirk Jackson I got the key in after spraying a bunch of lube in. You should do a video on how to properly install the non-sks cores. I’m now afraid to remove mine because I won’t know how to put them back in 😂
