Yes I did. It goes through the rad first, then through the auxiliary cooler, then back to the transmission.

Thanks for watching!

Your very welcome.

Your welcome, thanks for watching!

Ya man, whatever works for you and your needs. Thanks for watching

It is a Danmar M6. It's made by the company that makes the Maxx jacks hoist. It's the step above the maxx jacks. It has automatic locks where the maxx jacks has locking pins.

@TheBackyardTech Thank you sir for replying it's amazing when someone like you puts your vision to work.

Thank you for the kind words, and for watching the video.

Hello, I did not replace the pistons. I used the factory installed pistons.

Thanks for watching!

It worked great with the stock manifold and injectors, until it didn't. In hindsight, my recommendation would be to run 5 or 6 psi of boost rather than the 10 or 11 we were pushing. I think the factory injectors would have an easier time keeping up to that.

It's the stock dipstick and tube. I did have to manipulate it slightly. I also cut away a small ridge on the heater box just to keep it from rubbing.

ok thanks for the information. Truck looks good.

No worries. Thank you. Thanks for watching the video.

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed. I will. Thanks for watching.

Right on, it was pretty time consuming but, I'm very pleased with how the exhaust turned out. The video doesn't do justice on how good it sounds. Thanks for watching the video.

I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for giving it a watch.

@@TheBackyardTech You had a whole vehicle to remove the engine, Transmission, ECU, and Harness right?

Correct. I used a complete 2001 Silverado to utilize all of its parts.

I can take some measures from my template that I saved. You may have to fiddle with it to make it fit up, because I did deviate slightly when I made the real thing. But it's late right now, So I'll do it another time. To be fair, you're not the only one that likes it. I even had a guy tell me to start producing them. Maybe I'll make a short video devoted to the crossmember measurements so people can copy it.

Just a heads up, I made a video with all the crossmember measurements, materials used and how I built it. Hope this helps you make a copy for yourself.

​@@TheBackyardTechthat's rad! I will check that out ASAP! Cheers

People keep saying that. A guy on an ls forum sent one away and had it tested. Came back as cast iron, even showed the test sheet. But regardless of what they are made of people weld them all the time, I just did everything in my power to come out the other side with a good result.

Not stupid at all. Yes you can, as long as the s10 came with the 4.3 engine. The 4.3 is the same pattern as a small block chevy, which is the same as the LS. The 4 cylinders have the same pattern as the the 60 degree V6, like the 2.8 liter, so they will not fit. Possibly some company out there makes an adapter to bolt up the smaller pattern, but from the factory just the 4.3 stuff is the same.

My honest opinion, is it's a ok engine in its stock form. If you are just gonna drive it, it's fairly reliable. They do have there known issues, like head gaskets and timing chain/tensioner failure, but both are quite easy to repair. For modifications there are much better options. Plus there is pretty much no aftermarket support for this engine.

Thanks, that's cool man. I will be doing a SBC swap on my buddies s10 so I'm sure I will run into those issues as well.

Thank you, and thanks for watching.

I'm in British Columbia. Cool, I'm a big fan of the S/T truck platform. I'm going to helping friends with there s10 v8 swaps as well.

I'm not actually sure. My buddy bought it, I installed it. And it was like 2 years ago. He did some research and bought it from some website for audio equipment I believe. And I think he paid $65ish Canadian dollars for it. We tried the $20 Amazon ones and they were junk. That's about as much information I have about it.

@@TheBackyardTech well thanks 😊

That's a good question. My best guesses would be, the quad 4 probably didn't make the low end torque that they wanted for a "truck". And, the ECOTEC came out in 2003, the S10/Blazers were discontinued in 2005, the Colorado was produced along side, coming out in 2004. Knowing that they already had the s10s replacement, probably wasn't cost effective to use the ECOTEC for a 2 year run. The Colorado released with the atlas platform of engine which GM had experience with from the Envoy and Trailblazers. So I guess that was the engine that ticked all their boxes.

This will absolutely not help with fuel mileage. Its makes it substantially worse, and you have to run high octane fuel with the turbo. By adding more air with a turbo you have to add more fuel, essentially its acting as a larger engine. I guess in theory you could put the potentiometer in on a stock truck to try to lean out the mixture to save fuel, but I dont think it's worth the risk of cooking the engine.

Before I removed the original engine and transmission, I put a mark on the bottom of the cab. That mark, marks the end of the transmission. I put the Silverado transmission at that exact spot. Stock driveshaft fits.

The wiring diagram for the potentiometer is in the video. But the idea is that you put it in the place of the engine coolant sensor. As for a parts list, I put this truck together like 3 years ago, so I dont remember everything little thing. If you go back through the video I mention most of what I used.

Thank you. The size and spline of the slip yolk is the same from the 4L60E to the Borg Warner T5. Cant say 100% on the length. I would imagine they would be the same or very close. But in theory as long as you could get the 4L60E tail shaft to sit in the same spot as where the T5 was, should work just fine.

@@TheBackyardTech thanks for the reply. Trying to get my parts list put together. The less stuff I have to buy the less shit my wife will give me.

Glad I could be of assistance. I'm finishing up the truck and the filming for part 3. So keep you eyes open for how it wraps up.

If that's something I could have found for reasonable money or had laying around, absolutely. But I'm just working with what I got.

This was a few years back so I'm not 100% on it. I can give you a general idea. 200 turbo, 200 intercooler, 500 afr guage, 100 fuel pressure regulator, 150 fuel pump, 60 potentiometer. 250 universal piping kit, 400 exhaust and mufflers, 100 in guages. 60 blow off valve. A few head gasket kits, head bolts and oil, filters and coolant. And bunch of stuff I had laying around, and I'm sure there is a bit I'm not thinking of. Keep in mind this is Canadian money, so our prices are usually higher than US prices. Hope this helps.

I'm not 100% on the cost exactly. My buddies truck so he paid for it. Its probably in the 1500 range, but we also had some bad luck with engines, so we had to buy a few head gasket kits and do a bunch of changes along the way. I think I remember him saying that all said and done it was under 3 grand. But if you built it the way it finished I would say 1500.

Just a few lol. Thanks for watching.

Yeah, I had read that too. But I wanted to see if I could make it work with what I had. I have a steering shaft from like a 95 TJ, but it's too different to make it work. So I just made my manifold work with the stock shaft.

Thanks for the offer but I'll have to pass lol. Those manifolds probably took me 20-25 hours to make.

Thanks, this one is ok. Not the cleanest frame you've ever seen, but not rotten. Just some surface scale. Once it's done, I'll probably give it the fluid film treatment.

I'm working on it. I think I'm just going to do the rest of the build in one more video. I'm a normal guy, work all week, then I have to do this stuff on the evenings and weekends like anyone else would. But it's coming, believe me I want to get this thing going, I'm kinda excited to rip it around.

The frame notch is very common on V8 s10 swaps, and is commonly accepted. Some guys cut it right out and just put a piece of tube in. I took out only what was necessary for what I had to fit. I used all new steel, boxed it and welded completely. If you go to google and search" s10 v8 crossmember notch" you will see it has been done many times before I ever did it. But that's fine you can have your opinion, your entitled to it and I will respect that. This is a truck that was headed for the scrap yard, the point of this build is to put something together using junk I have, keeping the costs down.

That's awesome. Ya I have a couple buddies that are doing the SBC in their s10s. I took the front rad support out because I have to modify it, and it made doing everything else easier.

Yeah for sure, the issue is, where I live we have no pick and pull. We have an auto wrecker that will gouge you for everything. To travel anywhere else to do that, its 10 to 12 hours and that 150 rear end turns into 700. Or if I ship it in it would probably be more. But I do have a few 8.8 out of explorers. So if this one gives up, I will probably use one of them.

@@TheBackyardTech I like that you made your own headers eBay I bought mine same with the muscle car oil pan was cheap no notching of my frame nothing my LS went in only issue we had is my column shifter wouldent work anymore so I had to buy a floor shifter and c5 fuel filter is also a regulator to I like what I’m seeing your doing great I have a 95 ss s10 I want to LS swap

Ya man that's awesome. Glad your enjoying it. Next will be rad, hoses, exhaust. Then it will be just getting the wiring sorted. But it's been fun, Its been a pretty straightforward swap.

You maybe correct. The factory fuel pump from the donor was bad, that was the reason for the previous owner gave up on the truck. I limped it into my shop with a universal inline pump and a gas can under the hood. The factory oil pan fits just fine with the notch, so I had no problem using it. I read the reviews on the cheap Amazon/ ebay headers, and there are many that say they dont fit. Plus I like building things so I enjoy the experience. But yes if someone would rather spend the money, rather than the time, one could do that for sure. The goal for this truck is to keep it cheap, using stuff I already have, if I can. Plus just buying everything and bolting it together, takes away part of the fun building a truck for me, But it may not be for everyone.

Thank you. That is the factory heater box, it's the non A/C box.

What year?

It's a 1995.

Thanks for watching. Glad you liked it. Kinda give you an idea for what you're in for. It worked out pretty well. It was my first time attempting this, so I'm happy with the results.

Thank you, and Thank you for watching the video.

I did a bunch of research and that comes up a lot. One guy on the LS1 forums sent his in for testing, and the analysis sheet said cast iron. It seemed to act like cast iron when I cut it with the grinder(spark test). But I cant say for sure. Is it that these castings are pretty good and weld better than the old 70's cast iron. I dont have a concrete answer, just what other people have said. So I figured I would do everything I could to have a successful result.

That would probably work. The thing with that is when the map sensor hits the the target voltages, secondary injectors turn on. You would just get "x" amount of fuel from the injectors, at those specific points. And from what I've read, voltage comparator only outputs a constant voltage, meaning injector would be full open and not pulsed. The way I did it, I just turn a knob and can adjust the amount of fuel on the fly, and the ecm still pulses the injector. I've seen a Similar setups using hobbs switches/pressure switches. It works and I've tried it, you just dont have the adjustability. And when the second injector kicks in you can feel it, and sometimes makes a drivability stumbles. I'm sure if someone wanted to spend the time to dial it in, it would probably get the job done. I found it simpler to use the stock computer and just trick it into doing what I want.

@@TheBackyardTech the ground of the additional injectors were connected in parallel with the stock injector (with a pair of resistor), so it will drive by the ECU pulse, I did it on my C22NE engine, it smooth transition and pull pretty hard when the 2nd injector turn on, 8 psi stock engine, remote mount HE221w. My next plan is install speeduino and use 2 bar map sensor to get more proper tuning.

@@TheBackyardTech I doubt changing ECT with potentiometer will give you enough fuel require for the boost.

Nice. That's awesome man. This was just a mess around project where we were try to do it on the cheap. It works great, ended up running 10 psi, and had more than enough fuel to go further. But I'll keep that in mind if I ever do another. Thank you. Unfortunately the 2.2 engines are not the most robust and we killed a few, so we didn't want to push past the 10psi mark. The truck will be getting a V8 in the spring.

It does, and there was even more room to go. The 10k potentiometer would only bring the ECT down to about -5°C, if I were to do it again I would use a 20K potentiometer, or a different potentiometer, that would allow me to reach the bottom limit of -40°C that ECM allows. At 10 psi wide open in a hard pull, we were able to hold under 11 AFR. But I did have to run a better injector than the factory ones. Your idea would probably allow the factory injectors to survive, while the secondary ones took care of the boost.

Awesome. I'm doing a budget LS swap on a 95. 4.8 4L60 and a mini spool. Trying to see how cheap I can build it, within reason. Not just hack it together.

@TheBackyardTech had a 4.8 in my Silverado and it was a great motor. Will scoot a s10 along just fine. I've been running a mini spool in my 02 2.2 daily driver s10 for a couple years now. Makes getting around in the winter much better.

I'm doing it simply for the fact that it was the cheapest option to get both tires locked. They have there down sides, with low speed cornering chatter and tire wear. I've also seen them chip the corners on the spool, just from stress. But I'm not too concerned, if it all goes bad, I have a few ford 8.8s kicking around that I could swap in.

@TheBackyardTech it's just my beater with a heater. 2.2 doesn't have enough power to get out of its own way let alone break stuff. I did put a Yukon posi in the 8.5 rear in my 5.3 project though.

You can turbo the OBD2 S10, it's been done. It just can't be done in the manner I did. With a unlocked Ecm or stand alone ECU and a proper Tune it will work. It's just down to how much you want to spend. The 2.7 Colorados are a nice truck, I wouldn't mind having one myself.

Thanks for watching. I agree, just because were doing it on a budget, doesn't mean it has to be done poorly. I read that too, the cast steel thing. But the information is a bit wishy washy. A guy on the LS1 forums sent one in and had it tested, and the result was it was made of cast iron. He showed the analysis sheet. But does that change between years? Or Is it just really clean castings compared to old 70's cast. I cant say. I figured I would do everything in my power to be successful.

Your the second person to tell me to produce the parts I make, so i guess i must be doing something right lol. Glad you like it, thanks for watching.

Cool man. Sometimes you have to let them go. I have a couple superchargers kicking around. At some point I'd like to mess around with them.

I dont really have any desire to go to that length with this truck. As of right now, I'm just cleaning it up to the point when I work on, dirt and rust dont continuously fall on my head. It's just a beater for fun. I may spray the bottom with fluid film just to keep it from getting any worse. I would consider doing that on "nicer" vehicle.

The goal with this truck is budget, it's fine if the oil pan hangs an inch below. I could always build skid plate if I'm concerned. At the end of this video I was only in for about $1000 including the cost for both trucks.

@@TheBackyardTech I'm in mine for less than 2k. That includes the cost of the S10. The motor and trans came from my old daily driver. Had to take it off the road because chunks of the frame were falling off. Still ran and drove like a champ.

Nice, that's great. My donor truck was given up on because of fuel pump and a rot hole in the frame. I grabbed it for $300. When it comes to LS swaps it's very easy to spend money, I like trying to make something fun for very reasonable money.