I made a trans crossmember for the 5.3 swap in ny 94 s10. I used some 1/8 wall round tubing. Put it down low on the frame rail and ran the exhaust over it.
It is a Danmar M6. It's made by the company that makes the Maxx jacks hoist. It's the step above the maxx jacks. It has automatic locks where the maxx jacks has locking pins.
Hi im Diego from argentina i have a s10 2000 2.2 l4 engine and i want install a turbo in it ...the question Is...i must replace the pistons ir the original work well for turbo ???
It worked great with the stock manifold and injectors, until it didn't. In hindsight, my recommendation would be to run 5 or 6 psi of boost rather than the 10 or 11 we were pushing. I think the factory injectors would have an easier time keeping up to that.
That basically hown8 built the exhaust for my 5.3 swap in my s10. Took a bunch of scraps and welded them together. I did my crossover under the bellhousing instead of behind the transmission.
Right on, it was pretty time consuming but, I'm very pleased with how the exhaust turned out. The video doesn't do justice on how good it sounds. Thanks for watching the video.
Awesome job! I have to save this video as I would like to do this swap in my 95 s10. Mine has the 2.2 and a 5speed. So I will need a rear axle as well as the transmission( I would like to keep the manual) Very methodical and informative video!
Do you happen to have the measurements for the cross member you made. I really like that version. I know I could mock one up but yours is damn near perfect.
I can take some measures from my template that I saved. You may have to fiddle with it to make it fit up, because I did deviate slightly when I made the real thing. But it's late right now, So I'll do it another time. To be fair, you're not the only one that likes it. I even had a guy tell me to start producing them. Maybe I'll make a short video devoted to the crossmember measurements so people can copy it.
Just a heads up, I made a video with all the crossmember measurements, materials used and how I built it. Hope this helps you make a copy for yourself.
People keep saying that. A guy on an ls forum sent one away and had it tested. Came back as cast iron, even showed the test sheet. But regardless of what they are made of people weld them all the time, I just did everything in my power to come out the other side with a good result.
Not stupid at all. Yes you can, as long as the s10 came with the 4.3 engine. The 4.3 is the same pattern as a small block chevy, which is the same as the LS. The 4 cylinders have the same pattern as the the 60 degree V6, like the 2.8 liter, so they will not fit. Possibly some company out there makes an adapter to bolt up the smaller pattern, but from the factory just the 4.3 stuff is the same.
My honest opinion, is it's a ok engine in its stock form. If you are just gonna drive it, it's fairly reliable. They do have there known issues, like head gaskets and timing chain/tensioner failure, but both are quite easy to repair. For modifications there are much better options. Plus there is pretty much no aftermarket support for this engine.
Awesome swap, I have a 02 S10 I thought about doing that to, I have a 383 SBC with a turbo 350, they make the oil pans that will fit, but the worry is the headers and the room for the rear distributor!! Hey if push comes to shove I have a source for a Buick 350, the ditributor sets up front!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
I'm not actually sure. My buddy bought it, I installed it. And it was like 2 years ago. He did some research and bought it from some website for audio equipment I believe. And I think he paid $65ish Canadian dollars for it. We tried the $20 Amazon ones and they were junk. That's about as much information I have about it.
That's a good question. My best guesses would be, the quad 4 probably didn't make the low end torque that they wanted for a "truck". And, the ECOTEC came out in 2003, the S10/Blazers were discontinued in 2005, the Colorado was produced along side, coming out in 2004. Knowing that they already had the s10s replacement, probably wasn't cost effective to use the ECOTEC for a 2 year run. The Colorado released with the atlas platform of engine which GM had experience with from the Envoy and Trailblazers. So I guess that was the engine that ticked all their boxes.
This will absolutely not help with fuel mileage. Its makes it substantially worse, and you have to run high octane fuel with the turbo. By adding more air with a turbo you have to add more fuel, essentially its acting as a larger engine. I guess in theory you could put the potentiometer in on a stock truck to try to lean out the mixture to save fuel, but I dont think it's worth the risk of cooking the engine.
If you install a 5.3 on a s10 the transmission stays at original place or you have to move the transmission backwards a little bit or not i want to 5.3 swap on my 98 s10??????
Before I removed the original engine and transmission, I put a mark on the bottom of the cab. That mark, marks the end of the transmission. I put the Silverado transmission at that exact spot. Stock driveshaft fits.
Hey i know its a long shot but could you ell me how to wire ip the potentiometer and stuff like that and even make a sorta parts list im getting a 95 and wanna do this to it seems cools. The s10 im looking at has a rebuilt engine woth about 15k miles on it
The wiring diagram for the potentiometer is in the video. But the idea is that you put it in the place of the engine coolant sensor. As for a parts list, I put this truck together like 3 years ago, so I dont remember everything little thing. If you go back through the video I mention most of what I used.
Thank you. The size and spline of the slip yolk is the same from the 4L60E to the Borg Warner T5. Cant say 100% on the length. I would imagine they would be the same or very close. But in theory as long as you could get the 4L60E tail shaft to sit in the same spot as where the T5 was, should work just fine.
This was a few years back so I'm not 100% on it. I can give you a general idea. 200 turbo, 200 intercooler, 500 afr guage, 100 fuel pressure regulator, 150 fuel pump, 60 potentiometer. 250 universal piping kit, 400 exhaust and mufflers, 100 in guages. 60 blow off valve. A few head gasket kits, head bolts and oil, filters and coolant. And bunch of stuff I had laying around, and I'm sure there is a bit I'm not thinking of. Keep in mind this is Canadian money, so our prices are usually higher than US prices. Hope this helps.
I'm not 100% on the cost exactly. My buddies truck so he paid for it. Its probably in the 1500 range, but we also had some bad luck with engines, so we had to buy a few head gasket kits and do a bunch of changes along the way. I think I remember him saying that all said and done it was under 3 grand. But if you built it the way it finished I would say 1500.
Yeah, I had read that too. But I wanted to see if I could make it work with what I had. I have a steering shaft from like a 95 TJ, but it's too different to make it work. So I just made my manifold work with the stock shaft.
Thanks, this one is ok. Not the cleanest frame you've ever seen, but not rotten. Just some surface scale. Once it's done, I'll probably give it the fluid film treatment.
I'm working on it. I think I'm just going to do the rest of the build in one more video. I'm a normal guy, work all week, then I have to do this stuff on the evenings and weekends like anyone else would. But it's coming, believe me I want to get this thing going, I'm kinda excited to rip it around.
The frame notch is very common on V8 s10 swaps, and is commonly accepted. Some guys cut it right out and just put a piece of tube in. I took out only what was necessary for what I had to fit. I used all new steel, boxed it and welded completely. If you go to google and search" s10 v8 crossmember notch" you will see it has been done many times before I ever did it. But that's fine you can have your opinion, your entitled to it and I will respect that. This is a truck that was headed for the scrap yard, the point of this build is to put something together using junk I have, keeping the costs down.
I did that swap in 1984, no kits available then, all just fabrication work by hand, with a front mount, like the old days,with the 350 4 bbl of its time we just shoe horned the motor in, without removing the front grill,it slid in easily, ran a z28 Camaro, of the day the Camaro driver was shocked,lol
That's awesome. Ya I have a couple buddies that are doing the SBC in their s10s. I took the front rad support out because I have to modify it, and it made doing everything else easier.
Yeah for sure, the issue is, where I live we have no pick and pull. We have an auto wrecker that will gouge you for everything. To travel anywhere else to do that, its 10 to 12 hours and that 150 rear end turns into 700. Or if I ship it in it would probably be more. But I do have a few 8.8 out of explorers. So if this one gives up, I will probably use one of them.
@@TheBackyardTech I like that you made your own headers eBay I bought mine same with the muscle car oil pan was cheap no notching of my frame nothing my LS went in only issue we had is my column shifter wouldent work anymore so I had to buy a floor shifter and c5 fuel filter is also a regulator to I like what I’m seeing your doing great I have a 95 ss s10 I want to LS swap
Ya man that's awesome. Glad your enjoying it. Next will be rad, hoses, exhaust. Then it will be just getting the wiring sorted. But it's been fun, Its been a pretty straightforward swap.
I would be f bought the 275 dollar oil pan bro I’m from canada to man but that oil pan would of made your life so much easier 149 shorty headers work and the fuel pump from the doner truck would of worked as well
You maybe correct. The factory fuel pump from the donor was bad, that was the reason for the previous owner gave up on the truck. I limped it into my shop with a universal inline pump and a gas can under the hood. The factory oil pan fits just fine with the notch, so I had no problem using it. I read the reviews on the cheap Amazon/ ebay headers, and there are many that say they dont fit. Plus I like building things so I enjoy the experience. But yes if someone would rather spend the money, rather than the time, one could do that for sure. The goal for this truck is to keep it cheap, using stuff I already have, if I can. Plus just buying everything and bolting it together, takes away part of the fun building a truck for me, But it may not be for everyone.
Dude...been watching exhaust videos for a week....then I found yours....doing 95 dakota ls swap Well done man and thanks...I'm using exhaust manifolds myself....drivers side fine .modified passenger side but it dumps right into frame....love the trans crossmember man!.....Damn you did exactly what I'm in the midst of doing
Thanks for watching. Glad you liked it. Kinda give you an idea for what you're in for. It worked out pretty well. It was my first time attempting this, so I'm happy with the results.
I did a bunch of research and that comes up a lot. One guy on the LS1 forums sent his in for testing, and the analysis sheet said cast iron. It seemed to act like cast iron when I cut it with the grinder(spark test). But I cant say for sure. Is it that these castings are pretty good and weld better than the old 70's cast iron. I dont have a concrete answer, just what other people have said. So I figured I would do everything I could to have a successful result.
That would probably work. The thing with that is when the map sensor hits the the target voltages, secondary injectors turn on. You would just get "x" amount of fuel from the injectors, at those specific points. And from what I've read, voltage comparator only outputs a constant voltage, meaning injector would be full open and not pulsed. The way I did it, I just turn a knob and can adjust the amount of fuel on the fly, and the ecm still pulses the injector. I've seen a Similar setups using hobbs switches/pressure switches. It works and I've tried it, you just dont have the adjustability. And when the second injector kicks in you can feel it, and sometimes makes a drivability stumbles. I'm sure if someone wanted to spend the time to dial it in, it would probably get the job done. I found it simpler to use the stock computer and just trick it into doing what I want.
@@TheBackyardTech the ground of the additional injectors were connected in parallel with the stock injector (with a pair of resistor), so it will drive by the ECU pulse, I did it on my C22NE engine, it smooth transition and pull pretty hard when the 2nd injector turn on, 8 psi stock engine, remote mount HE221w. My next plan is install speeduino and use 2 bar map sensor to get more proper tuning.
Nice. That's awesome man. This was just a mess around project where we were try to do it on the cheap. It works great, ended up running 10 psi, and had more than enough fuel to go further. But I'll keep that in mind if I ever do another. Thank you. Unfortunately the 2.2 engines are not the most robust and we killed a few, so we didn't want to push past the 10psi mark. The truck will be getting a V8 in the spring.
It does, and there was even more room to go. The 10k potentiometer would only bring the ECT down to about -5°C, if I were to do it again I would use a 20K potentiometer, or a different potentiometer, that would allow me to reach the bottom limit of -40°C that ECM allows. At 10 psi wide open in a hard pull, we were able to hold under 11 AFR. But I did have to run a better injector than the factory ones. Your idea would probably allow the factory injectors to survive, while the secondary ones took care of the boost.
Picked up a 94 s10 with a 2.2 and 5 speed out of the local junkyard. Paid scrap price for it. Never even tried to start the 2.2. I tore the whole drivetrain out. Replaced it with a 5.3, 4l60e and a 8.5 posi rear end. Not going to be a racer just a fun driver. Swapped in some Cavalier bucket seats and a floor shift center console from a Jimmy.
Awesome. I'm doing a budget LS swap on a 95. 4.8 4L60 and a mini spool. Trying to see how cheap I can build it, within reason. Not just hack it together.
@TheBackyardTech had a 4.8 in my Silverado and it was a great motor. Will scoot a s10 along just fine. I've been running a mini spool in my 02 2.2 daily driver s10 for a couple years now. Makes getting around in the winter much better.
I'm doing it simply for the fact that it was the cheapest option to get both tires locked. They have there down sides, with low speed cornering chatter and tire wear. I've also seen them chip the corners on the spool, just from stress. But I'm not too concerned, if it all goes bad, I have a few ford 8.8s kicking around that I could swap in.
@TheBackyardTech it's just my beater with a heater. 2.2 doesn't have enough power to get out of its own way let alone break stuff. I did put a Yukon posi in the 8.5 rear in my 5.3 project though.
Thanks for giving the negatives on turboing a 2.2L. I have a 98' with the OBD11, so will not attempt turbo charging it, which is disappointing. I have had nearly every GM turbo vehicle from the first Gen Corvair to the Buicks and a couple of Mustangs including the game changing SVO. So instead of a turbo for my much loved S-10 I will acquire a new Colorado with the 2.7-T
You can turbo the OBD2 S10, it's been done. It just can't be done in the manner I did. With a unlocked Ecm or stand alone ECU and a proper Tune it will work. It's just down to how much you want to spend. The 2.7 Colorados are a nice truck, I wouldn't mind having one myself.
I don’t know if since the building of the manifold & the release of the video if you’ve learned anything different about the manifolds themselves?? Just curious because it’s a widely misunderstood thing about them in that they’re not cast IRON their cast STEEL, it is better quality that you tig welded it but wasn’t a must, nor was the heating parts but im sure it helped with some distortion & what-not.. keep up the good work man I really appreciate & respect when another guy takes the actual meaning of the word budget for what it is rather then equating it to lazy, cheap crappie work & parts..
Thanks for watching. I agree, just because were doing it on a budget, doesn't mean it has to be done poorly. I read that too, the cast steel thing. But the information is a bit wishy washy. A guy on the LS1 forums sent one in and had it tested, and the result was it was made of cast iron. He showed the analysis sheet. But does that change between years? Or Is it just really clean castings compared to old 70's cast. I cant say. I figured I would do everything in my power to be successful.
I wanted to mount an AMR500 supercharger in place of my AC compressor on my 97 2.2l build, but traded it in before I got that far. Was nothing wrong with it; just ready for the first new truck I had ever bought, and already had a 2004 Colorado too. Traded the s10 in being worth less on resale. Would have been fun to keep but it was just time to move on. Had all of the basic bolt ons, a tune and a custom fabbed ram air. She ran pretty quick for being N/A and how slow it was to start out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tG4EaOHgB38.html
You should sandblast and paint the frame with tractor/implement enamel paint, while it's all apart. Did it to my 55 Allis Chalmers over 20 years ago. It's been outside ever since and it still looks great. I didn't use primer and the paint adhered fine. Reduced the paint with Naptha thinner to spray with a paint gun
I dont really have any desire to go to that length with this truck. As of right now, I'm just cleaning it up to the point when I work on, dirt and rust dont continuously fall on my head. It's just a beater for fun. I may spray the bottom with fluid film just to keep it from getting any worse. I would consider doing that on "nicer" vehicle.
On my build I went from a 2.2 5 speed to a 5.3 4l60e. I ended up building my own trans crossmember. The factory one for the was no where close to bolting up. I also notched my crossmember but I used a knockoff musclecar oil pan kit. Pan doesn't hand down below the crossmember at all.
The goal with this truck is budget, it's fine if the oil pan hangs an inch below. I could always build skid plate if I'm concerned. At the end of this video I was only in for about $1000 including the cost for both trucks.
@@TheBackyardTech I'm in mine for less than 2k. That includes the cost of the S10. The motor and trans came from my old daily driver. Had to take it off the road because chunks of the frame were falling off. Still ran and drove like a champ.
Nice, that's great. My donor truck was given up on because of fuel pump and a rot hole in the frame. I grabbed it for $300. When it comes to LS swaps it's very easy to spend money, I like trying to make something fun for very reasonable money.