Yeah, you can embed videos when I have embedding enabled. No - you cannot download and redistribute videos anywhere else without permission. Contact me for permission. I'm pretty easy to get along with if you ask first.
If i see one ill pick one up. Got a spare 12volt 150watt power supply and think this would work to run it corded and make the battery optional. My biggest annoyance on battery mowers.
Cool idea! It seems to benefit from the weight of the battery, I’ve used it with both the 12v lead acid and the 18v drill battery. It bounces around less with the 12v.
I have a leak on the same side, but the weld right at the top of the windshield that holds the pillar to the roof of the cap has a big crack in it. Ford has yet to respond. 2020 f-150 lariat. It also caused the windshield to pressure crack, even though there were no stone pits or anything. We'll see.
it's very corroded on the passenger side - the holes drilled in the casing and soaking some penetrating oil helped enough so I have working wipers until the parts arrive. The ford part was $270 (CA$). I found aftermarket parts for much less, will report back when I have the part.
much easier way use the claw of a hammer you can wedge it down to the wheel spindle then work it to pry off wheel by getting it closer the peg that goes up into the chair bottom if it just widens the wheel space you can then work claw under the wheel where the top cover is over the wheel it will pop off easy then just tap spindle to get other wheel out
That’s where the ignition points are for the electric start. it also serves to pass gas to the other burners so when you turn them on the lite quickly.
I managed to get them out for this video without any trouble. I replaced them with random hardware and I can’t get them out now. So, the burners are just sitting on top of the stripped out screws. It’s probably a bad idea in case a burner drops off the mount. I don’t move my bbq, but if I need to, I just give a quick check to make sure they’re in place.
@@spinphotoBilstein themselves say the lettering is supposed to be upright no matter the boot orientation. Apparently the boot orientation can be different depending on make and model but the letters are always supposed to be upright. I can't tell from the video if they are or not but maybe he thought it was upside down
@MrCodyswanson yeah, maybe! The passenger side is a good candidate. The driver side reflector has started to peel up. It’s probably at the replace stage.
I changed the shocks on my 2011, it was two bolts and pretty straight forward. Clean the threads with a wire brush and slap some penetrating oil on there. Did it in the driveway and it took maybe 30 mins.
Thanks for the vote of confidence! I've been Treating the hardware daily with penetrating oil hoping that will make the job easier so I won't need heat. Something about heating gas charged cylinders gets me haha
Hi Chris, thanks for the how to video. I have a 2018 Tacoma and for for Christmas my kids gave me a dashcam by Junsun. Chinese obviously. It's rather large since it has an attached screen with provision for a rear view camera which I will probably end up mounting as a front fender camera for avoiding the pillars in handicap parking so the back of the truck isn't sticking out in traffic. The camera has a horizontal, sticky pad mount that's intended to mount on the upper dash near the windshield. I don't like the arrangement one bit. Once stuck its totally non adjustable or removeable. It, the sticky base, can be removed from the camera by four tiny screws in the base. Once dtuck down they are not accessible at all. I'm thinking of trying to use the GoPro mount, that I just discovered this afternoon, but I'd need to find an adapter like you used with a suitable mount for this camera, turned upside down. Other than Amazon what's a good source for various GoPro mounts if you have a favourite? Thanks again for the videos. Your mount certainly looks sturdy enough though I'm a little concerned about the weight of this one. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞 🇨🇦🍌🥋🕊🇺🇦🕊🇺🇲👍
😅 just the video I needed tonight, you answered all my lithium battery questions. I bought this unit Reg $200. on sale for $150. at C-Tire Nov. 2014. The beater bar lasted about 4 months... broke off, repaired, broke again. But, it worked perfectly as a hand held for 10 yrs. I love the little bugger. Ten yrs on & now it won't charge. After watching your vlog, I'm gonna have to replace it...damnit. Cheers Chris, you saved me from friggin' with it anymore. Pat/Yukon, Canada✌
I just got a flatscreen toshiba crt for retro gaming. As always... there was 20 year old gold kirkland signature AAA's in it. Opened it up, isopropyl wiped everything, vinegar on the battery terminals. It worked fine for a while but then started getting really finnicky and the batteries are heating up. Odd that it was happier with those old acid covered batteries and corroded terminals lol.
My used 2016 5.0 is a really nice truck. The problem is questionable assembly line methods and poor quality plastic components..ie: sunroof rails, sunroof drains, rear glass seal, sliding rear window sealing, ac drain, possible pass side windshield leak, deteriorate insulation on alternator and trailer wiring harnesses, poor grounds, intake mani flap rods, corroded starter braided cable....other than that it's an awesome truck. Lucky for me that I can repair the cheap design problems. Would I buy a GM or Ram of that era...nahh.
So my windshield isn't cracked. And I noticed this after a good day of rain... And I got in with flip flops on to take my daughter to the bus stop no "moon/sun roof". The heck.
@@cherylthompson1616 Another F150 owner messaged me with the same scenario - water pooling somewhere and pouring down onto the driver foot well. Turns out it was likely an improperly installed windshield - replacing the glass fixed the leak (even though there was also no crack).
Peanut butter people. 🟠 Hold on to the jar tight. Start the drill slow. There's often a REALLY, REALLY THICK layer at the bottom that can grab hold spin the jar. 🟢 There is no better way of mixing for consistency and flavour. 🟢 Storing it upside down after mixing will help keep it from separating again (Store in the fridge to keep it from separating even longer). Cold peanut butter sucks, though. 🔴 Turning it upside down without mixing will not magically mix it. The oil floats to the top that's now the bottom and you have thicker than normal peanut butter stuck to the lid. 🟠 In my experience the hand mixers are too fast even on the lowest setting, so probably don't try it.
That's a great idea and I would do that if it worked, but it doesn't. The oil just ends up between the bottom sludge and the thinner peanut butter. I never see the oil again this way AND it pulls the thicker stuff off the bottom.
The new ikea wheels are from more bendy plastic.. you can literally destroy them, bend it to the shape that looks beyond repair and the core won't come apart...
@@ArkadiuszCzekajski I used drain cleaner (at my own risk, you shouldn't) and while it cleaned up the loose hair on the outside, the gel type cleaner didn't penetrate the tightly packed hair inside the wheel housing. I was hoping for success. I don't recommend drain cleaner for safety and because in my case, I took the risk and it just didn't work, even after days of soaking. Let me know how the vinegar & baking soda works out. I tried vinegar, but without the baking soda. Good luck, hope to hear back :)
brass creates natural bearing surface and makes it so you don't have to go gorilla on it to get enough clamping pressure. it also doesn't seize even after being thee for years in clamped position. you simply used too much force. and if you hang stuff without safety, then it's your fault. also, brass will give out before the steel or rest of the arm -> it's a small and cheap part to protect from overtightening.
I feel this one just wore out from a lot of use rather than over tightening. I was legitimately surprised when the threads peeled out, more of a PSA for other users because I don't hang stuff, but others might. This clamp spent most of its life on a table edge with just a magic arm and a phone. Occasionally an SLR and a 50mm.
I have a 23 Offroad 6mt and it does the same exact thing. So far my research suggests it's "normal". I've never had this issue with prior manual transmissions in other makes. I also find the transmission itself is quite loud when shifting especially in lower gears. I've always had a good ear with my vehicles so it bugs me a bit, but I guess if it's normal I can live with it provided that's the extent of problems I face. My last truck was a Ram I bought new in 17 and it dropped a valve at 117k kms. Twelve grand later for a reman, six hundred to replace a totally rusted out bumper and an automatic trans that was about to fail had me looking at Tacomas. Maybe in seven years I'll trade this one in on a Tundra. By then Toyota will have "Kaizened" the sh*t out of the new engine.
I guess it's like a new song. The first time you hear it, it's like... Hmm I don't know. But after hearing it a lot you end up loving it. Toyota's policy of improving on current tech inspires confidence however and I'm sure they won't risk their brand and continue that philosophy.
Be aware that many battery solutions (eg Dewalt) have the under voltage protection in the tool. So if one buys a generic adapter without this feature and connects to the battery, there is nothing to protect the cells from being undercharged. That will significantly reduce the lifespan of the batteries. For other types of batteries, like Makita, the undervoltage protection is inside the battery itself. I don't know about Rigid. But I suggest you check, and if necessary, you put an undervoltage protection between the battery and the mower. Sincerely :)
You're right, battery protection needs to be handled inside the battery. I should have mentioned that specifically. For the Rigid 18v batteries I'm using, it seems the battery handles low voltage cut off since the devices I've been using don't slow to a stop, but rather, they just shut off. I'm disappointed that a company would choose to use tool side low voltage cut off - I guess that means as battery technology evolves, the tools need to be replaced.
@@spinphoto I actually did not think about the possibility of new battery technologies, but good point. I believe most systems have placed the under voltage protection in the tool, and only a few (I only know only of Makita and Rigid) place it in the battery. I remember watching a guy on RU-vid repair/salvage/recombine tool batteries. He did a lot of it, for customers. And as far as I remember overall he had good things to say about the types where most control circuits (including the undervoltage protection) were placed outside the tool (edit: outside the battery). The first and obvious reson is that it is simpler to move cells around when the architecture is as simple as possible. Furthermore he said that there were more parts in a Makita that could break, and he more often had to give up repairing a Makita battery than a DeWalt battery. The real crime, IMO, is that almost all the third party adapters, and also some third party tools (like a DeWalt compatible glue gun I bought), don't have any undervoltage protection. And most consumers don't know the consequences of draining the batteries like that, so they drain the battery completely every time they use it. Overall I agree with you and think under voltage protection does belong in the battery.
@@mrvelleful You got me thinking a lot! And so after some digging, I found that some batteries may send a low voltage state to the tool and the tool shuts down because the battery said "Low voltage state". This makes sense to me. If the tool monitors the battery, the battery tech can't change. When the tool monitors a low voltage true/false signal, then the battery decides what low voltage cut off is, and the tool is just doing what it's told to do by the battery. I think a battery that incorporates all management is the most flexible and with the cost of batteries, I sort of expect the batteries to be smarter, especially considering premium dollar that top brands demand for their battery packs. Thanks for commenting, I really enjoyed this conversation.
Since I already had the 12v lead acid and rigid 18v batteries I never needed to look for another battery type, I’m not sure what a lithium battery costs. I converted the mower to use 18v rigid batteries because they charge fast and it’s easy to pull them out of the mower instead of trickle charging a lead acid. The rigid batteries get more use in the mower than my tools 😂
Hmmm you get what you pay for IMO. My Vermont Castings BBQ bought in 2002 (~1100$ back then ) Gets 2x a week (at least ) use, every week of the Year and is Still working well. Grills and burners are in Great condition... some minor heat rust out (which I will fiix shortly) and it will be good for another 10 years. Buy Cheap = Buy twice .
Agree 100%. Broil King has started selling parts directly to consumers recently, which is great, I will buy parts direct. The 3rd party "OEM" parts were not the same quality (or price, I guess).
