Is it true that a healthy 722.6 should never go backwars uphill when into "D" without pressing brakes and gas pedal? Please end my suffering I cannot find any answer as to what a healthy 722.6 should operate like...
i have a 2-1 downshift clunk on my 722.6 2005 SLK 55. Very noticeable can feel it almost every time i get to a stop light. I have had so much work done trying to fix it no one can find the issue
Location of solenoids @31:45 in the diagram are all incorrectly identified! The whole thing should be flipped For ex #1 is the TCC lock-up solenoid, not #8
I have a question about the 9T50 transmission. I was told that the torque converter and pump were upgraded between 2017 & 2018. Would you know anything about that? I’m getting a check engine code P2817 pressure control solenoid “H” performance or stuck off.
Great video on the older 6f. I'm building a 2011 escape unit now. It has the older center support without the dish. I swapped it out with the gen2. The forward clutch snapring popped out was the causal part.
"Basically" watched the entire series so far. "Basically" it is a very good series. "Basically", looks like a simple gear train. "Basically" the one thing that is difficult is "basically" installing the black fiber with the splines correctly. "Basically" looking forward to the next video - basically!
You can find a kit at these locations: www.wittrans.com/ , transend.us/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6uWyBhD1ARIsAIMcADrPa0ao3E2z89YTGlsyWvFyiXgKbcTsOdA_1SIzYenT275TouaY1PsaAn0qEALw_wcB
Great video. Really enjoyed learning a whole bunch just by watching your video. Very thorough and relevant, removed a good layer of fog on these valvebodies. I have a question and I've asked this elsewhere and couldn't get a good response. On my VW Tiguan with 09M valvebody, the wiring harness to the solenoids got some broken plastic tab and to this point, I've accidentally reversed the plug orientation. And upon sorting out the pins, I see that some valves are normally open, some normally closed, some use PWM signals, and overall, I realized by plugging it in the wrong orientation unknowingly, upon starting up the car, the car goes through a few "thump", "boom", and after that, it's stuck in park no matter what the shift lever does. Engine cranks fine,, the shift indicator can cycle through P, N, R, D without any issues, but transmission itself doesn't seem to respond at all. I've been at this for months now, and it wasn't until I finally addressed the harness plug that I found that I've plugged it wrong this whole time. Anyway, my question is, what sort of damage could each of the solenoids be subjected under if this is the case. All I can imagine is that the solenoids would operate under wrong shifting points/sequences, but I later did check the resistance to each solenoid, and they all pass with readings within 0.5m ohm of each other. The only foggy area I'm not so sure about are two things: 1) Can any of the solenoids be toasted under such mix up with the signal inputs coming from TCM? And if so, how come the resistance check reveals passing with flying colors, all are under specified ohm range? Under same temperature, I got 5.6 micro ohms and 13.2 micro ohms consistently where they should be. 2) Having the harness plugged wrong, I can imagine the TCM giving it firing signals to the wrong solenoids, will this doing affect the transmission's mechanical state itself? Does it throw the clutches and gears into a state where everything gets locked up? Ever since this issue, I've never been able to get the car to engage in any gear at all. It's as if the valvebody and torque converter don't even respond. Upon highly suspecting the torque converter isn't kicking in, I checked N91, SV-4, and it's PWM driven and its correct pin-out is #11 and #12 on the harness. But since the orientation is wrong, #3 and #4 are the pins plugged into it. #3 and #4 are On/Off solenoids (N92 SV-5, normally applied), By the way, N91 operating range is .2amp to 1amp, and N92 operating range is .1A to 1amp. Just by looking at the torque converter solenoid, without looking into others, I'm trying to determine if the torque converter solenoid could be faulty to cause a no-movement on the torque converter itself. It's what I'm most baffled about right now. By the way, I use VCDS scan tool (VAG-COM) and got no codes on the TCM. Sorry for the long email, but I dearly hope you can help. Thanks.
@@atra-automatictransmission1300 Thanks for the recommendation. I did just order a valvebody yesterday. Should be in and I'll give it a whirl. On the harness, I ended up testing all the leads for continuity from pin to pin, all checked out, I even checked to make sure the harness bob internally didn't cross-over at all. So that should be fine. Thanks so much for the reply.
Thank you for the info. Wrestling with a shot 2012 Nissan Rogue trans which crapped out at 144,000 miles. This video will be very useful as I replace the stepper motor. Again, thanks.
How can I contact you? I have a question on how can we lock the transmission in to 4th gear to install a transfer case in the driveline. is that possible?
The bore that these rings ride in, is NOT as smooth as every other transmission that uses these PTF rings that I have seen and It's not always a slipped CDF drum sleeve as much as it is worn rings. These rings move back and forth within the end clearance tolerance of the 10R80 and wears down the OD or the rings from riding in such a ruff bore. I have not tried smoothing the bore of the CDF sleeve with a flapper wheel, but if it was my own transmission and not a warrantee job, I would give it a go, including the stator and hub shafts.
Reverse is usually a mechanical output; try disconnecting the transmission harness and see if you have reverse. If not you have an internal problem with the reverse circuit. Valve body, it could be but it would have to be a plug missing or something that would cause a massive leak in the circuit
BB7A, bought new, 150,000 miles. Fluid religiously changed at 20k miles with DW-1. Developed a rough shift from 2nd to 3rd, rpm jumps and shift hammers from 2nd to 3rd, sometimes getting stuck in 3rd. Downshifting from 2nd to first is violent. 6th to 5th also is slightly firmer than normal. I replaced all 6 pressure switches, and secondary valve body. I can see all switches and solenoids operating normally on data livestream. Shifting issues are not apparent when fluid is cold. When fluid gets warm, issues get worse. Temp sensor indicates fluid is in the 170*F range when operating. Whatever it Takes Trans sells little for this unit as it rarely fails, Honda dealers know nothing as these rarely fail. Where can I get service manual with torque specs and wear limits? I never had any issues with my old BAXA past 312,000 miles with regular fluid changes. Thanks.
You are genius. Please make video about solenoid material. Somebody said that solenoid can be made of recycled cardboard. It's correct? Please make video about this point. Thanks!
Good question. When you purchase new clutches, it's not uncommon to have differences in height. Usually, only a .001 difference but a pack of 5 could be .005, which is still nothing to balk at. It's only when your clearances are greater than or less than .005 from spec; in those cases, you might encounter a couple of complaints. Of course, it depends on the clutch we are talking about, but at any rate, shifting concerns between gears are the most common. Slide shifts (Too loose) or harsh shifts (Too Tight). In some cases, after you clear the adapts and readapt, you'll never see an issue because the TCM/PCM controls the flow rate to cushion or speed up the shift. Try to keep the clearance as close to the spec as possible. For more information on transmissions and how ATRA can help you check out members.atra.com/
