i tried this and it worked wonders! my issue is the cuff alignment screws keep loosening up and adjusting on their own during skiing. is there any way i can prevent the alignment screws / disks from rotating on their own? im bowlegged and found adjusting them outwards helps but they keep spinning. can i hse loctite?
I am so glad that you adjusted your cuffs and that it works for you! Yes, go ahead and use Loctite Purple. It holds well, but you can still remove the screws if you want to make more adjustments.
These people want to fill your head with confusing BS - like financial planners, demonrats, etc. (So they can steal your money) ALL YOU HAVE TO KNOW IS: Keep your hands forward at all times, and DO NOT drag your poles. Oh - and one more thing - stay IN SHAPE, and get on the mountain at least 20 days per season. There - fixed it for you.
Correct me if I am wrong. It seems to me everything here is done backwards. 1:00 Your explanation of what the formed sole piece does, doesn't explain its use. Its purpose is to support the bottom of the foot when the boot has been buckled to the leg and then adjusted to be flat on the floor. So, the cant adjustment to the leg and the floor has to come first and then a sole can be formed to the bottom of the foot, if the leg was bowed to the outside at all. If a bow-legged person buckles the boot to the leg and the sole isn't level to the floor, you adjust the camber to flatten the sole out. Kind of like this. _/ The leg is in a natural position and the Lower part of the boot is adjusted to the floor. Then, you create the sole piece under the foot, inside the boot. So, it makes sense to me that you tighten the boot to the leg and then adjust the can't to put the sole flat on the floor and then you create the inner sole under the foot. I hope I explained that clearly.
It can be helpful to think of adjusting the cuffs as part of fitting the boots to the skier. As a skier stands on a flat surface, with their feet parallel and in their skiing stance width, their legs join their feet at some angle. Some skiers have very straight shins that rise almost straight up from their feet. Other skiers have more curvy shins that lean outwards as they rise up from their feet. If a skier has shins that go straight up, then the cuffs usually need to be tilted inward so that the cuff is aligned with the leg. For skiers whose shins curve outwards, the cuffs need to be tilted outwards in order to align with their legs. When the cuffs align with the legs, the boot is most comfortable on the leg with no pressure points on the inside or outside of the lower leg; the tongue lines up with the shin bone; and the boot supports the leg and foot in their normal orientation to each other. Once the cuffs have been fitted to (aligned with) the legs, underboot alignment can be used to adjust the position of the knees relative to the center of the boot soles. If a skier's knees are wider apart than ideal, the entire boot can be tipped inward to bring the knees inward. If the skier's knees are closer together than ideal, the entire boot can be tipped outward to bring the knees outward.
I'm seeing more and more boots come with no cuff adjustment these days (cost cutting measures?) Is there a way to adjust those types of boots or are they to be avoided entirely? Thank you
That observation is correct. There are two versions of boots without cuff alignment... Cost-cutting with rivets or fixed hardware; boots with a walk mode. In the former it is sometimes possible to remove the fixed, nom-adjustable hardware and replace it with screw/tnut/camming insert from another boot. For boots with a walk mode, one cannot swap the cuff hardware as the cuff-to-lower alignment needs to stay fixed for the walk mode to engage and disengage properly.
In our technique, we manage fore/aft balance primarily by moving the feet forwards and rearwards beneath the hips: We pull the feet back (to create tip pressure) or slide them ahead (to shift pressure rearward, toward the tails). One can also press the forefoot down and lift it up, but that doesn't have as big of an influence as pulling the feet back or moving them forward.
And the best opportunity to pull the soon-to-be new downhill foot back is during the transition when you are rolling it from little toe edge to big toe edge.
The primary problem is that learners do not see the idea that this is actually one foot-job. Just like skating, walkin, runing and cross country skiing. There you can clearly see that it is, but on alpine it cannot be seen -so you have to say: "put the weight to outside ski". On walkin you have not, even chlid moves her weight to one feet a time. It would be quite funny to walk with both 2 feet a time. But one last thing: in WC, the most usual mistake they do, "weight on inner ski!" and then falling, it is not because they are late on this, no. --It is when they are too fast moving the weight to "future outer ski"
I don’t agree, the fastest you move the weight to the future outside ski, the better. Also there is no problem if whilst you tip and bend your inside ski you put weight on it. In deep snow you actually have to put weight on it. The worst mistake that can be done in my opinion is to focus on the outside ski and try to steer my using the outside ski, all attention and steering comes from the inside ski, whether weighted or unweighted is of less importance
@@damiancitobarbanis7575 Wel, with your idea they racers all fall. If soonest inside ski pressure is good, then why not start the turn with inside ski? ;-)
Very good tutorial, I wish however to have seen the adjustments being made, not been kept off camera, or at least showing the tool used and the way to effectuate the changes.
So when I watched your demonstration in bare feet I noticed that you were rolling from big toe to little toe. This is an expression that I have heard for a long time. I worked in the ski industry 40 + years and have been involved in many coaching clinics. Big toe Little Toe
@@SNiboDuh Ankle angulation is not about bending the boot. It is about using the effect of kinetic chain by applying pressure on the side of the boot and start tipping by applying torque on the sidewall of the boot. When you focus on the feet and engage them first, as opposed to just moving the knees only, you use the effect of kinetic chain to coordinate the movements. Actually, this is a question of terminology. The name Ankle angulation is from Ron LeMaster Ultimate Skiing. You can like it or not;). If your prefer to use "foot eversion", I don't mind.;)
When encountering partial boilerplate on a steep slope, I have found it helpful to think: big toe! Big toe! In addition to effectively engaging additional edge angle, it also encourages me to get more weight forward at the same time.
@@SNiboDuhWhat was shown in this video using the bare feet can be done inside the boot and anyone who is having trouble improving their skiing and doesn't think that this is possible, most likely will never improve.
Weight can be shifted from one foot to the other. So can the centre of gravity. But balance implies the play between two opposing forces. As such it’s not a correct substitute for weight, the term the vast majority of skiers use. Otherwise the session is well done.
I believe their method is to discuss movements, nothing else. If you lift one foot off the snow, you don't need to use the word weight, it can only be on the opposite foot. All you need to tell the student is lift foot A, and things happen, the weight is on the other foot. you needn't mention shifting one's weight at all. I believe this is highly effective. I have skied for many decades, but I can tell you when I became aware of their description of the movement of the inside foot, flexing the new inside leg at the knee and ankle, and pulling the inside foot back at the end of the transition from one turn to the next, everything fell into place. It was a transformative concept. You do not need to use the terms of physics, like weight or center of gravity in teaching one how to ski. If the teacher talks about movements one needs to make, things will happen, automatically. I believe that concept is the foundation of their methodology.
Totally agree, Jim. When I was watching slomo slalom footage of Mikaela Schiffrin, it was evident that she was unweighting the current downhill foot very early in the process, thereby getting the soon-to-be downhill foot carving earlier than her competitors. Watching Diana's moves above encourages me to put more weight on that uphill little toe edge earlier than I have been doing it. Learning is a continual process...., esp for those of us who started later in life.
Teaching kids this winter, I would simply tell them to touch with the pole which is on the side they want to turn towards and simultaneously pick up that foot. (ideally the heel of that foot, to encourage them to keep their weight forward) It Works!
Hi Diana - Thanks for this informative video. I need to align my cuffs (quite a lot) beyond the amount allowed by the boots I have and wondered if it was possible to purchase the t-nuts you mention in one of your answers below? I am based in the UK so unfortunately coming to your shop is not that practical! Many thanks in advance.
Hi Guy, I am sorry, but we do not supply the t-nuts alone. Their installation has to be done "just right", and our insurance only covers it if we do the installation. Do you need to tip your cuff inward or outwards? If the latter, you can get some benefit from using a pad on the medial side of the cuff between shell and liner. (If you have to tip the cuffs inwards, then there is no "quick fix").
@@danorog007 thanks for your reply - much appreciated. I need to tip them inwards unfortunately so will try and find a boot fitter over here that can help. Guy
@@guycrawford6640 send us an email at ask.us@harbskisystems.com, and I can send you some photos of what we do to make a bit more room in cuffs, either beyond what we get with our t-nuts, or for boots where they cannot be used.
I am also thinking of buying those HEAD Raptor boots. The only issue is that I heard it is extremely difficult to put on or off. Do you have any tool to help to put it on or off? Or do you have any other suggestions? I am interested in 140.
Head's current boot is different than the one in the video. It's now called the Raptor WCR 140 ("WCR" are the letters designating the new model.) All of Head's latest boots (WCR and Formula) are made of plastic that is more temperature sensitive. This means that they are more flexible at room temperature, but then stiffen to their flex rating at about 20 deg F/-7 deg C. They are definitely easier to put on than the previous Raptor models (non-WCR). They are comparable to put on, or easier, than other brands' 140-flex models. That said, you should try them on a your local Head dealer to be sure you can get them on. Some people have stiffer ankles and higher insteps, and that makes it harder to put on any overlap-style boot.
@@danorog007 In your experience, does the boot gets stiffer or more flexible over time? Plastics tend to change over time. In the midst of winter, do you have any tactics to put on or off your boots? Do you use something like a hair dryer to loosen it up? does it work? I remember trying one of those Raptor boots, and it was so painful to put it on. Once in, it was comfortable. But it created a bruise on the top of my foot. Maybe my foot is one of the inflexible ones. Is there anything I can do to make my foot more flexible?
@@ujaekang All plastic boots get stiffer over time. The more the boots are exposed to sunlight and heat, the faster the process goes. They should feel similar for 4-5 years, but you would probably start to notice a difference after that. You can absolutely use a portable hair dryer to heat the front of the boot in the region of the ankle (where the cuff meets the top of the foot). This helps for getting the boots on and off. Some skiers with stiff feet find it helpful to spray the inside of the liner and the surface of the footbed/insole with a slippery spray, like teflon or silicone. A little goes a long ways. Make sure that your socks are smooth and snug. It's helpful to pull the tongue to one side with one hand, then use the other hand to open the opposite side of the cuff and liner - trying to flare the two sides away from each other to increase the circumference of the opening of the boot.
How did you tilt the cuffs further than what's possible with the stock boots? My boots (Atomic Hawx Prime) do not tilt far enough in with the stock cuff alignment adjusters.
Hi Lawrence, we manufacture different hardware to replace the stock t-nuts on the inside of the boot. The new hardware gives more "throw" than the stock.
The "how" varies with the make and model of boots. Some have a cam insert which can be turned to lean the cuffs either direction. Some boots have a toothed ladder between the cuff and lower; you need to loosen a screw, pull the cuff into the new position, and tighten the screw. Some boots have different inserts that have to be swapped into place. Let me know the make and model of your boots and I will tell you how yours work.
Please help! I have the Head Formula 120 with the adjustments on inside and outside leg I dont see anyway to adjust the cuffs since the hole is circular and not elliptical shape for the adjustment. Currently ski tips are pointing towards each other because my tibias are resting against the inside cuff of both skis (lots of space on outside of leg)@@danorog007
@@ryno7437 I am quite sure your Fischers have the older style of cuff inserts, that look like a cross or plus-sign (newer Fischer race boots have circular cuff inserts). There is one on each side of the boot cuff (medial and lateral). The stock inserts are black, and the through hole with the screw is centered in the cross. There are two other inserts, grey and red, with more offset (red has the most), meaning that the center screw hole is offset toward one of the 4 arms of the cross. We will call this the "short arm". Opposite this we will call the "long arm". (Note: the arms are not longer and shorter, but the distance from the screw to the end of the arm is longer and shorter.) You need to get these inserts from Fischer or a dealer. If your shins curve outward, you will want to tip the cuffs outward. In this case you would remove the stock inserts and install either grey or red with the long arm aimed upward on the medial (big-toe) side of the cuff and aimed downward on the lateral (little-toe) side of the cuff. If you have very straight shins, or shins that lean inward, then you will want to tip the cuffs inward. In this case, you would install either grey or red shims with the long arm aimed downward on the medial side and aimed upward on the lateral side. You can mix and match the colors (amounts of offset) to fine-tune the angle of the cuffs to match your legs.
How could his stance be that narrow? The skis tips would definitely be touching each other with this stance. If he just widened his stance a bit the gaps would be equal on both sides.
He does have a narrow stance, both in street shoes and in ski boots. He could just stand in a wider stance to make the indoor situation "look ok", but it does not ski well for him. Using an accurate stance when adjusting the cuffs is necessary, and results in the best on-snow performance.
Hello Chenchao, if you have bow legs, you most likely need to tip your cuffs toward the outside. Depending on what cuff adjustments you have on your boots, lower the lateral side of the cuff (the outside); raise the medial side of the cuff (the inside). Check your results and try to achieve the same gap on both the inside and the outside of each leg. If your lower legs are very curved, you probably will not be able to enter your legs, but any improvement is worthwhile.
@@danorog007 Thank you very much for your reply. I just did the cuff alignment by moving the cuff outside. I see that there are the same gaps between my legs and the shell on both left and right sides. However, after I put the liners back in the shells, when I stand straight up, the bottom of the boots is not 100% flat. I have to bend my knee so that the bottom of the boots are flat on the ground. Do you think whether this matters to the ski performance?
@@chenchaochenchao4592 it is not ideal when the boots do not sit flat. If you have centered the cuffs, then you would need underboot alignment to address the situation. That is a different process, and needs to be done at a qualified shop. Try skiing now that you have centered the cuffs, and see if you are satisfied with the results. If not, let me know and I will help you proceed.
I think this is the real deal when it comes to get rid of x shaped legs or A frame, when standing on ski. When standing neutral in my boots without alignment i was standing on my outside edge. To be flat i had to press my knees together a little bit. This lead to a x/a frame while skiing. I adjusted this first time after 40 years of skiing and over 10 years of racing. Now the edges feel so much more powerful and quicker. OMG. Watch my video, it is with the not adjusted boot. I will do a second on at the same spot with the adjustnent.
I have been to a specialized shop, where only thing they did was measure my foot (at least) and although I am beginner/intermediate they sold me a semi-pro ski boots. I was ok with that, why not invest in something that will last years. But not a single minute spend on setup or explanation! I have new series Tecnica Mach 1 MV with T-drive, I went on full weekend of skiing with this fixed and was wondering why those boots are so stiff when it is only 110 flex. Not a word about canting adjustment, not a word about fastening adjustment. Give us 400 bucks and bye bye! Thanks a lot for a video like this, it is all 100x more clear to me now and I already adjusted my boots and they fit great! You need to learn everything on your own, even money and well know seller do not help sometimes! :)
I am glad that the video helped you to set up your boots. "Out of the box" only works for the tiniest fraction of skiers. You now have good boots that are more customized to your anatomy... I hope that you enjoy them for a long time!
Thanks for the vid. One thing that was not mentioned or referenced is the flex adjustment screws/bolts on the back during the cuff alignment. Should these be taken out before doing the cuff alignment? It seems like they should be taken out as they bolt the upper to the lower therefore making the cuff adjustment difficult to do if they remain in. Yay or nay? Could you please elaborate on that? Many thanks.
Hi Sean, Good question. The answer is yes, remove the spine bolts before doing cuff alignment, On some boots, the rear bolts don't really constrain the cuff adjustment, but on others they do. Best to loosen them completely before proceeding.
Brilliant technique - balanced, effortless and elegant. I'm getting there but will I ever be this good? I don't know but I'm loving the challenge! Best wishes from the UK.
Hello Pink Panther, thank you for the kind feedback! If you use PMTS technique you are on the right track to get there. Always remember to enjoy the practice and to celebrate even the tiniest improvements. That's how progress is built.
Hello Honey & Jam, you have to pay attention as you try on boots. Most backcountry boots have no cuff adjustment. Many "sidecountry" boots (those with a walk mode) have no cuff adjustments, or have very little adjustment. Boots that are Alpine-specific, with no walk mode, are more likely to have a good range of adjustment. If you look for "dual cuff canting" as a feature, the boots are more likely to offer a good range.
Hi! These Harb Carvers are a lot of fun. We do not make or sell them anymore, but we have complete plans on how to make them yourself on our website. You can work with a local machine shop to help you build them. We do include a supply list that is US-supplier-oriented, but you will be able to find all the necessary supplies online or locally. Here is the link... harbskisystems.com/pages/harb-carver-diy
That's great! Thank you. Boots adjusted & if my logic is correct this should help me to not get struck on the inside edge which inhibits transition into the next turn. My ski club (dry slope) is due to open in another 4 weeks time along with outdoor sports facilities in the UK (following Covid shutdown) & I can't wait to get back amongst the slalom poles. No mention of canter adjustment was made when I bought my boots (from a well reputed boot fitter). I am at a loss to understand though why such information is not readily available on manufacturers web sites. Maybe there is an element of liability culture, but surely they want their customers to maximise performance & enjoyment from their equipment!
Martin, you are correct - if your cuffs are adjusted properly, you'll be able to roll on and off edge easily. Releasing from a turn with ease makes it much easier to stay on a good line when running gates. There is a dearth of information about adjusting cuffs, which is a shame. Many boots have that feature, and boots feel and ski better when it's done. At least you now know about it and can share the info with your clubmates. I am thrilled for you that your dry slope is going to re-open soon. Stay healthy, and I hope you enjoy the new boot setup while running gates!
These actually are a small unisex boot. In this particular boot, the women's model has a cuff that is 1 cm shorter than the unisex model, but there is no significant difference in the circumference. Becky skis well and she enjoys the support of the higher cuff and stiffer flex. However, it did not improve her cuff clearance. She had previously used the women's model, and the cuff setup needed to be the same in it. If a skier's calf tapers quickly, then a lower cuff is sometimes helpful in terms of cuff clearance or alignment as it can sit just below where the muscles flare outward. IF a skier's calf is a more even "diameter" just above and below the height of the cuff, then a slightly taller or shorter cuff won't have as great of an influence.
@@danorog007 very interesting and very informative. You are very knowledgeable and your video has taught me a great deal about boot fittings before which, I was unaware. Thanks for posting a great video Diane and for your reply!
Thanks- never had a single boot fitter talk about these adjustments. First offer is a footbed, then heat molding, or a punch or that the boots are wrong for my foot and I should just buy new ones. Have some new Lange's been to two different fitters, did get 1 punch but still had hot spots. Finally after fiddling with the cant in this video and making some cuts on the tongue the boots weren't making my feet scream to come off by noon! I guess that means my days of skiing until the pain was too much and switching to my snowboard in the afternoon might be over.
Alan, I am so glad that aligning your cuffs made such a difference in your comfort. It really does influence not only how the tongue sits on your leg, but how the leg, ankle, and foot all sit within the boot. Enjoy your full ski days :-)
just obtained my pair and scouring youtube for any and all carver videos i might have missed. this one is frankly incredible lol. the one footed balance my word.
@@danorog007 been watching the evideo on repeat the last few days and it really is great. any tips for training that relaxed stance leg maybe with the slantboard?
@@douglast3410 You could certainly practice it on a slantboard. One way to practice that is beneficial is to "compare and contrast"... Balance on a slantboard in your boots, lifting up the uphill foot a few inches. Do several where you deliberately stiffen the downhill (stance) leg. Then do several where you relax that leg. Do a few where you transfer the balance from both to the downhill; at the moment that you lift the uphill, do both versions - 1. stiffen the downhill leg; 2. relax the downhill leg. It's often at that moment of committing balance to the one leg that our brain tells us to stiffen it. You have to train yourself to do the opposite: that's the moment to exhale, relax the muscles, and settle into the front of the boot.
@@danorog007 thank you so much for this thoughtful answer! just putting it out there but it is pretty much name your price territory if you want to put together a new next generation slantboard training series ;)
