Formed on March 6th, 2021, Twisted Grid Studio™ - this is an independent music label, platform for marketing, distribution, and promotion for multiple genres of artists as well as sharing ideas, projects, and insights from the studio. Welcome to the Sandbox!
Artists currently signed with Twisted Grid Studio™: - OrbonBoch™ - Bending Grid™
Find our artists in Apple Music or the Apple iTunes Store, Amazon Music, Spotify, Pandora, iHeart Radio, Instagram/Facebook, TikTok, Twitch, Tencent, RU-vid Music, and more!
I purchased a blue backlit display from an eBay seller (glitchscience). The description was for a JP-8080, but it worked on the JP-8000 after some mild trimming of the upper case.
Absolutely top notch job! Your JP looks totally stunning! The blue LEDs are a really nice touch. My JP, which I have owned from new, is undergoing a similar resuscitation process right now, she has had her keyboard contacts cleaned and new 105 degree electrolytics. I had to disassemble and restore the stereo volume pot (as I could not find a replacement). Also she has new tack switches and rotary pots. I am about to fit 10K slider replacements. The slider pots have 0V one end and 5V on the other, the wiper goes through a 100R to a 74HC4051 analog multiplexor input, then to a buffer op-amp and then finally to an ADC input, so am thinking 10K should work with the same resolution as the original 20K? Great video, very informative and logically laid out. A true professional and complete perfectionist at work. Liked and subscribed! Thank you! BIG love from Techtone in the UK. P.S. My pitch bend and modulation controller stopped working after a battery change. If any one else gets this problem here is the solution: 1) Turn on power while holding [OSC2 SYNC], [-12dB/-24dB] and [FILTER TYPE] to enter Test Mode. Wait until display indicates "[1] MIDI Test." 2) Press the [3] button to display "[3] Bend Mod." 3) Push the bender lever left fully and gradually return it to the center. Press [LOWER]. 4) Push the bender lever right fully and gradually return it to the center. Press [UPPER]. 5) Push the bender lever to the MOD position and then gradually return it to the original position. Press [KEY MODE]. 6) When the '*' appears on the display, press [UP]. 7) From the previous display, press [4] to display "[4] Ribbon." 8) While pressing down on the left edge of the ribbon controller, press [LOWER]. 9) While pressing down on the right edge of the ribbon controller, press [UPPER]. 10) While pressing down on the center of the ribbon controller, press [KEY MODE]. 11) When the '*' appears on the display, press [UP]. 12) Turn off the power of the JP-8000. (Thanks to BevBKeys for this solution)
I'm not sure on the 10k vs 20k, but be sure to come back here in the comments and let us know!. Sometimes you just have to go for it and give it a try!
Hey, thanks for your reply, I have now fitted 10K sliders in place of the original 20K sliders and can confirm identical control operation.... All good... Yay!
Excellent restoration, im glad you have a unit that you feel comfortable with, i do feel that some of the stuff was unnecesary, like replaciog the IEC socket and some of the output jacks, i get the mains but not the control ones, and the midi ones only im sure were just an asthetic touch.
Sorry for the late reply. I would check the where the MIDI input plug is soldered to the board first, to see if there are any hairline cracks in the solder joint.
Thank you so much for this!!! I’m finally done upgrading both the power supply and microphone. The sound quality is phenomenal! The silent hiss and dirt sound is gone and it’s sooooo clean!!!! You’re the best man!!!!
Do you happen to have a schematic for the power supply? I have an NTK with no power supply and unfortunately rose would charge me for a new mic to get a power supply.
I'm sorry, but I don't have the schematic for this one. Try contacting the technical service department for Rode and say you're an electronics repair shop and they'll likely email it to you.
I am having a this very loud like distorted white noise when recording. Grounded and re wired the whole studio, same issue. I am using a PC but when I am recording on my mbp laptop (on battery) not while charging the noise is very low and can be removed using de-noisers. Was this the same issue that you were having? My NTK was built on 2004, I can buy a different mic but I love this one and got very used to the sound of it.
I just got a free DX7, but I'm not getting any output from headphones or main out. The battery warning came on the screen when it was powered on. Does that mean all of the internal sounds are gone? Help plz!
Change the battery. That fixes 95% of issues. And yes, you'll have to re-download the factory presets via sysex after changing the battery. It's not too hard to do. Use a free sysex tool and follow instructions on one of the DX7 fan websites. You tube might have a tutorial on it somewhere as well. Good luck!
Looks Superb & great documentary. I replaced my LCD but it still becomes jumbled after a few minutes to the point where its just jibberish. Can you enlighten me as to which cap to change out please? Thanks a bunch in advanced.
@@TwistedGridStudio Yes, yes I did. I should note the previous screen was going thru the same flaws so I ended up changing the LCD screen unnecessarily. Im thinking it has to be one of the caps. The other cap I replaced definately gave me clearer sound and free from distortion. Any ideas perhaps?
Congratulations excellent job tell us where you got the carburetor seals in fkm or green if you let us know some we don't know or someone knows I will thank you please...
my mic stopped working. not sure if its the power supply though. when i turn it on the blue light will glow but when i turn it off it takes a solid 20 seconds to turn off. it didnt use to do that. does this seem like something that would make the mic stop working??
Mine does that too. That's from leftover capacitance after disconnecting power. I don't think the led staying on indicates a problem with your power supply.
Thank you. This will help me in the conversion I am about to make to mine. Not so great on demonstrating the resulting sounds, if you don't mind me saying - but thanks.
I got it from a Canadian piano repair felt supplier. www.pianofortesupply.com/ They are super helpful and will even ship you custom felt cuts and sizes.
EXCELLENT video! Hey my JP-8000 wont save patch or performance changes anymore. I tried swapping out the battery, but no luck. Everything else works great. I hit write, I get the "Completed!" message, but the patch is the same before the modification attempt after a power cycle. Gracias for any ideas I could pass on to a tech! thanks!
The JP-8000 has a self diagnostic mode. Google search for JP-8000 service pdf. Go to page 10. Do the memory test on your keyboard and it will indicate which item is the problem. It also has a list of where each component is on the circuit board for each error code. Then you refer to the circuit board schematic to see where it is on the board physically.
Hey! I hope you could help me out, mine has a problem with the analog/digital converter (that's what they told me, but what I know is that it just sounds distorted at the output) do you know how it could be fixed?
Change the battery. That fixes 95% of issues and is cheap. And yes, you'll have to re-download the factory presets via sysex after changing the battery. It's not too hard to do. Use a free sysex tool and follow instructions on one of the DX7 fan websites. You tube might have a tutorial on it somewhere as well. If that doesn't fix the problem, then you can look into replacing the DAC.
I've had mine since the 90s. In storage for most of those years. But have been playing with it again, for last three years. In great shape, except was taking longer and longer to boot up, make sound. I found a schematic, and figured out which cap it was, replaced it. Next time I have problems, I'll refer to this video, and replace the rest of the caps. Thanks for sharing this info. Subscribed :-)
