Yes agree! But if it's my first time buying fabric I've never used before I like to buy it at Joann's so I can touch and feel it in person and test it at home on a small project, , then if I like it I will look online for a cheaper option
Yes she is amazing! I have only learned a fraction of what she teaches, but I always recommend people to take her classes, she is a treasure trove of knowledge when it comes to embroidery🤗
How I do mine, I use heat bond patches did I create in Canva and I do my patches and sublimation I don’t have machine, but this is how I do mine but good luck to you
I've been using denim from.worn out jeans. Many parts of the jeans still have good fabric. I have to cover the edges completely otherwise fraying shows.
I’ve found that denim tends to stretch a little too much for good embroidery when I’ve used it. I’ve tried the older denim without the spandex and the newer denim , neither one came out as well as different fabrics. I have tried to use a spray starch to keep it from stretching but it seems to get sticky on the needle. Any suggestions, as I have lots of denim and it’s good to recycle. Also often free when using old jeans!
Thank you for this thorough video. I struggled finding the right fabric backing and have been using felt with great results so far. I am going to try duck canvas next I think.
Thank you for your videos!! I use InkStitch because it's free, haha, but the way you explain your theories and thought process helped me translate it well enough to a different software. I'm trying to learn to make realistic patches of pets. Love your designs, please keep up the great tutorials!
I have not tried Design Doodler, or any other digitizing software to be honest. Hatch is just so great and fits all my needs😅 but I see lots of people talking about Design Doodler so I may just need to try it out!
Good question! My patches are fully covered in thread, so when you stitch on the twill, the back of the twill is also being covered with the bobbin thread, so the twill adhesive is no longer exposed. I guess if you make patches with most of the twill fabric exposed in the background you could use the adhesive, but I've never tested it and don't know how strong it would hold up when ironed on.
Oh yeah, you'd have to really do your research to find the material ingredients for how they are made. Good luck and hope you can find something that works for you!
I absolutely LOVE this technique and style!!! It’s gotten me really interested in incorporating appliqué into all my larger designs. I do have a question and hope you can help me. At 4:08 on this video you said your machine stops, did you add a manual stop and if so how? I’m trying to figure out how you did this without having to auto appliqué. Thank you so much in advance, and thank you so much for all of your videos! Love them all! They are inspiring, helpful and super informative. Great job and kudos to you! 😊
Yes I love how much of a time saver applique is and it just looks so great! So for the stops, I digitize the stops as a different color so it shows on the machine a seperate section. On my multi needle there is an option to stop the machine before it switches to the next color so I can add the fabric. On a single need the machine stops anyways after each color, so it's just a mental reminder of when uou need to add the fabric. Glad you found this video helpful!
Thank you so much for this video. I've been trying to shade a flower design that I digitized and nothing was looking good or right. I tried to do what you suggested after watching the video and now I need to see if it's going to look ok when I stitch it out. One question, did you do the petals of the flower separately or as one big flower?
Wow, I used only Rayon on my first little 4” x 4” machine but switched to PolyNeon when I got the 10 needle. Now with this comparison I think the Rayon is richer and for metallic colors, the metallic is much nicer. Thank you for doing this comparison!
Thanks for watching! And yes the tatami spacing is what controls the density. 0.016 sounds like you have your program set to display in inches vs millimeters, so you might want to switch to mm as it is easier to adjust the spacing
Excellent video - saved me a lot of comparison-work. I just started using the heat-away film which is superb - lovely 'wrap-around' edges with no need to cut.
I used Madeira badge-film for the first time yesterday and found it to be superb. It does require the same placement-line and placement/tack-down technique as the soluble that you've shown here. But, it's a plastic-looking perforated sheet that simply 'rolls into tiny pieces' and leaves the finished patch-border without any trace of itself, similar to the soluble but of course without the need to apply water - far more convenient and giving a nice full 'wrap-around' border to the patch. You may like to give it a try too - I've used the soluble-backing technique many times but still prefer this 'heat away' type of backing for my patches now. p.s. I am in NO way whatsoever connected with the above-mentioned label, merely a user of the product that found it to be very good. I'm strictly and amateur hobbyist also, and have no commercial interest in embroidery. The patches I made yesterday were for my dog's jacket! I finally applied a nice heavy iron-on backing to the patches and ironed them straight onto her (my dog's) jacket.
I LOVE Madeira and am defiantly a fan girl for all their products 🤣 I have been eyeing their badge-film and think I will take the plunge to try it out. I'll let you know how it goes!
You could totally do some of the added satins. You just have to make it less dense at .50 in satin densities. I've done that on multiple designs in my Etsy shop and customers love it. Thank you for sharing your hard work. Its so cute.
But what happens when you wash this patch since this border satin stitch has no fabric to support it. The border than might become very loose and if you stick your backing on the water soluble stabilizer will it last?
Good question which I forgot to address! since the satin border is relatively small/narrow it would be fine (assuming the satin stitch has an underlay, which should be the default setting in most digitizing programs). I also just did a quick test on the cat patch shown in the video and when I got it wet the border stayed just fine.
The border stitches don't need material on their 'outside' to support them - they simply pull around the edge of the badge's material to give the merrowed-border with no trimming-edge needed. A pretty-much perfect edge results - choice of border stitch (satin isn't the absolute best choice there is in my experience) can give many different 'looks' to the border-edge from a silky-smooth to a 'spiky' edge if desired! The iron-away films and the wash-away backings are very similar in use and results. I've used both and know this is accurate.
I just don't understand why your not stitching all your design using the WWS from start to finish? There is no need to digitize the extra step (I don't anyway lol)
Looks like you already contacted me on Etsy:) but just for others to know: yes I can do custom patches. Feel free to shoot me a message in Instagram or Etsy
