Hi there thanks for the comment yes, could use that, but I used the Teflon liner from my mig gun because I was running stainless steel I think that may be more durable with steel running through it that the stuff go the 3d printer. I coils be wrong though
Nice to see a DIY CNC where someone actually shows milling steel. I had a high speed spindle on mine but am switching to a spindle similar to what yours has.
Thanks, mate, appreciated. Yeah, my main reason was to mill steel. I have a lot of projects I want to do, and steel is what I like to build my projects from. The spindle is really good, I would say. Though, if the budget allows, get a proper spindle servo to run it. The AC motor I have on it is okay, but a spindle servo would have more power through the whole speed range and higher speed capabilities.
I put the largest Teknic AC servo on my full size manual milling machine and it seems to work well. Probably cheaper alternatives if you know what you are doing. I'll put the same servo on the CNC machine I have going.
Really like this types of youtube content! Showing the everything ups and downs. A advise is to have the correct lenght on your probe, then when you start getting more tools and holders it is easier to get a sanity check of the lenght than wondering "wait is that tool 23.73mm longer than my probe? When probing the round stock, don't know about mach4 but if you have a outside probingroutine first do that then you are on centerpoint for z
Thanks, mate. I appreciate that. You don't learn unless you fail, lol. The probe is definitely a game-changer for me. With the offsets and setups, it makes things a lot easier. I will have to look into the probing routine and see how to do that. It sounds better than my eyeballing method, lol.
@gingerninjaneering It might take a little fiddling with the toolseter height because these type of machines might not be as fast reacting to contact. Another advise is when you want to have control the z height you can set the offset on the bottom of the part and probe the surface you are placing it on.
@lunchman84 I did wonder about the speed; would probing slower help? That is a really good idea about probing the surface I'm putting the part on; that would be much more accurate.
I don't think you need a bigger spindle motor, you are already overloading that little taper. On a factory made cnc mill you have broken the endmill at the shank so your on the limit with ridigity also. Run the toolpath in the air before you start cutting so you can spot moves that won't work. For expensive parts I make it from plastic or something so I make the real part from the first try. Greetings from Hungary.
You make a good point. I guess it is only a BT30. Just the flute chipped at the end broke on the end mill, not at the shank, but it probably could have if the part had not come loose in the vice. I like the idea of running the tool in the air first; it seems like a logical way to test the tool path. It is also a good idea to test in a softer material as well. I will try that in the future. Thanks for taking the time to comment; it is most appreciated.
Hi there, I haven't yet. I'm still weighing up my options for the filling. Thank you. Most appreciated. I'm just building with what I have and can get.
@@gingerninjaneering I was inspired by your project, I've been looking for information on everything for weeks and I came across your videos, actually different from everyone else! Much more DIY than other projects I was thinking of filling my z with a mix of metal grit for sandblasting, fine sand and an adhesive resin for floors
@angelotrezza9256 That's awesome, mate. I appreciate that. I was thinking the same thing about filling. I have been researching epoxy granite as well as an option for filling. The machine does ring a bit when pushing it. Scrap steel is my favorite; I like the price of free.
Thank you. I got it off aliexpress you can either buy the spindle by itself or In a kit with the mounting and a spindle servo. TwoWin CNCTOOL Store a.aliexpress.com/_ms6ciAW. This is who I got the spindle through
Hey, nice build. I just bought a similar spindle after not being happy with the high speed one. That air cylinder is very compact you have, would you mind sharing info on it? Thanks, looking forward to see where you go with this.
Nice video from near down under! You chose not to one click print I assume so you could make it over to the machine. Any updates? Installed that micro Swiss yet?
Hi there, I have moved to orca slicer and rooting the machine. I got a bit sick of the ads and things in creality print. I control everything through orca now. Mostly just one click printing except on smaller parts and only really adjusting temp. I haven put the micro Swiss hotend yet haven had any problems with the original. I did have to replace the tool head pcb because the stepper driver stopped turning. I have a video coming out soon on that but my wife just had a baby that we found out about in the emergency department 40 mins before she was born. I am working on filming but finding time to edit has been my problem. Beer with I will have more content on this machine. And the mill.
o good stuff . it works well, but time will tell if the drive motor will keep going as long turning the bigger roll and all. cheers for taking the time to comment.
Mine went back, absolute trash!, I have been printing for over 10 years run 10 plus other makes and models and was so excited for this printer but unfortunately ..... It has some massive design issues that cause massive VFA issues and ghosting. Creality even admitted this and looks like the fix is possibly the K1C. They have made some adjustments experienced users pointed out to them but I won't be risking anything with them again ... I wouldn't recommend it if you want good quality prints
I freaking love my K1 Max. It's a great printer. It leans more towards experienced user vs bambu labs printers though. If you have experience in 3D printers this is a better go to than bambu IMO.
Tip from K1 Max owner. Don't use the retract to change filament. When changing filaments remove ptfe tube, cut your filament a little above the PTFE fitting, pull the old filament out of the back as normal, replace the ptfe tube over the cut old filament and reinsert it fully, load new filament up to the old cut one, then extrude 2 times while pushing the old filament through with the new filament. It will prevent clogs in the extruder.
yeah, I love mine too. and correct, do a couple of extrudes after putting filamentsin. but I do use the retract, and then I click the lever over and give it a quick pill and it's like a cold pull and seems to pull the old filament out. but to each there own I guess. cheers for the comment.
@@gingerninjaneering I started doing it that way because of that little piece of filament at the end when removed. I had one break off into the extruder once so now I just do it this way. Just as fast and no chance for the little blob to end up in there.
I have one, it’s… alright. It’s certainly an upgrade to my 7 year old bedslinger, but the reason it’s breaking the internet, if it is, is because of marketing. It’s not without its problems.
hey there, thanks for the comment. agree everything can have problems. but some of the time, with anything cnc if something doesn't work, it's a user error.
first of all your own built is so cool!!!!. I do not agree with this "Creality K1 Max: The 3D Printer That's Breaking the Internet". In my own experience this is the bambu lab. Thumbs up BTW
Kool project! If there's any voidspace/unused space in the collumn or elswhere, you can fill it with sand or leadshots or similar to provide more damping/weight to the machine. you can even epoxy it in place to make it contribute to the rigidity aswel.
Basically, you can't tune those chinese (AASD by YMPC) Servos for a CNC if you don't have a software that shows you graphs of move command and actual encoder position.
you shouldn't need to if you set the acceleration and set the motors up in mach 4 correctly. you can also bypass the drivers and put the encoader signal right into the controller board if your controller can use that. cheers for the comment
@@gingerninjaneering dude, you're very far back on this topic. I suggest you delve into it a bit deeper. Tuning is far from settting the "right accel decel settings". Lol
@chronokoks what more do you need? The motor speeds up and slows down with the weight of the machine perfectly they don't need any tuning that I have noticed they throw my table around at speed and don't loose any position. If they did the machine would stop. What is the tuning doing dose it test resonance or something
@@gingerninjaneering Dude why the fuck are you even arguing with me? Stop arguing with me and LOOK AT RU-vid VIDEOS ON THE TOPIC OF TUNING SERVOS. To properly tune a servo that does not have a sophisticated auto-tuning procedure is a pain and takes long time to learn. For proper tuning of a servo you first have to know the weight of the moving components (of the axis) to set the proper intertia ratio. That's just the first parameter to consider. There are like 20-40 others. Forget what you think you know, you know nothing. AGAIN LOOK AT THE RU-vid VIDEOS, DON'T ARGUE WITH ME, ARGUE WITH THE GARBAGE YOU THINK YOU KNOW.
Proportional Gain (P): This determines how aggressively the servo responds to an error (the difference between the desired position and the actual position). Too high a P gain can cause overshooting and instability, while too low can lead to slow response. Integral Gain (I): This addresses steady-state errors (when the servo isn't quite reaching the desired position). Adjusting I gain helps eliminate these errors over time. Derivative Gain (D): This anticipates future errors by considering the rate of change in the error. It's used to dampen the system and prevent overshooting. this is the same as tuning acceleration and things in mach 4 you are just making sure that it speeds up and slows down at the right point and that the motors will not over or under shoot. just because they don't have software dosent mean they can't be tuned. this is a budget build. I didn't have the money to spend on over priced servos that came with a tuning software. that I can set up myself. and I got 3 motors and drives for the price of one
Excellent build and build quality. I built a manual one using a sherline headstock spindle with a 120v DC motor and a variable speed controller and cheap compound chineese side table 7"x 18". Making the cnc part is next.
yes, you are correct with the right skills it's easy to build. the alignment and getting surfaces parallel and perpendicular when the machine you are building is too big to fit on another machine well for a price that isn't more than the cost of the entire machine, lol. thank you most appreciated.
So cool mate! Don’t forget to add the coolant system to clear the chips while pocket milling. With no chips you get better finish. (I didn’t state the obvious of cooling)
lol, most definitely I will be, but after I build the enclosure, it makes enough mess dry, lol. but will most definitely be on the cards. cheers for the comment.
Pretty cool. That boiler plate is a key component, great find. I've built a couple of small CNCs, used composite stone to make them stiffer, dampened & densier. In the end, it was cheaper to buy a used large CNC with a broken control, but I lost it in a shop move when I could not move it before I lost the space. One of these days I'll buy another.