@@BlackPilledWhite I haven't even used it yet. Isn't that terrible? I've had so many other projects that don't involve turning that I just haven't needed to use it. Your question motivates me though. Perhaps I'll take a break from all the other projects just to do a quick turning of some kind. Sorry that I can't give you a good answer. Thanks for watching and for the motivation. Take care.
Another fun check, thanks for sharing!!! I understand your single support point but I think if you added how you "leveled" the scale ... I'm assuming you clamped the scale to the 1-2-3 block after you got both ends of the scale to read the same value on your indicator. In that case, the scale sides are parallel but the scale has a bow in it. It's only a high (or low) spot depending on how and where the scale is supported. If the scale is held only on one end it's a droop. Semantics aside, for a "standard" pocket scale I think 1 mil droop over 6" is pretty darn good.
Have you tried the smaller version and seen how it compares? I like Tri mitre squares because they’re relatively thin and they usually fit in the hammer loop on my pants. But the two piece ones, you drop it a couple times or even once you can knock it out of square. I would spend whatever on a single piece one if I saw some tests like this one on it. 😊 thanks for the video.
@@nathangardner772 I do not have any tri-mitre squares. I do have a set of machinist's squares though. I agree that combination squares are a bit delicate. I handle mine carefully. Thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
Carpenters don't work to exacting tolerances. That's why houses & buildings fall down. In 30 ft. you will be off 1/16 of an inch. 60 ft. brings you to 1/8. My Starrett levels things to 5/100,000 in 12 inches. Machinists are more on the level than carpenters.
@@Dudeguymansir True. For general carpentry a speed square will suffice. For finish carpentry and fine furniture making, more accurate tools are needed. IMHO.
I have no idea how many thousandths my Empire square may be out (if any). It doesn't matter. I can't see the difference and that's what counts. I know, it's aluminum and aluminum wears,blah, blah, blah. If it gets to the point I can see it, I'll replace the square.
For starters, I absolutely agree that 4 mils is most certinly more accurate then any task anyone might be using ANY square for ... so any comment after that is just to gulid the lilly. That said, I dont think you can truly conclude the assembly is 4 mils out of square for all assembled conditions - for instance, would you get the same result if you flipped the scale over in the holder and cheched it again? For a more complete picture you would need to check elevation at some midscale positions ... please note I said MORE complete and not 100% complete. Likewise, not knowing if the scale has a big hump in the middle (or anywhere along its length), would you get similar results if you slid it to the midscale position ... and checked it for either scale edge facing up? Again, any additional measurments would be for fun and as a curiousity as this square is more than square for its intended purpose. THANK YOU for sharing your test and results!!
@@Stevie_D I believe you are right. I can perform the test again as you recommend and see what the results are. Thank you for the input and thank you for watching
That is truly impressive accuracy. Far better than anyone would ever need and miles better than anyone could ever cut. Carpentry ain't rocket science. It's much more difficult than that... 👍
It won't be square after a week of use, aluminum combo squares are garbage. There's no substitute for a good hardened steel square like a Starrett or PEC.
@@nobuckle40 Wow you are unhinged dude. I had agreed with you and your comment made no sense.. and you misspelled your big word boy. It's really dumb to mouth off to viewers on your channel as well. Good luck.
Need to check flatness of the stock and straightness of the rule - squareness only has meaning relative to flat/straight surfaces. Or do them in one go, by traversing the dial indicator down the rule. Checking squareness by checking the nearest and furthest points *assumes* that the stock/rule are flat/straight, but *checking* is what we're supposed to be doing here.
Thats pretty impressive! What do you reckon the droop would be in the steel and through the joint over that distance under its own weight? My guess is an additional 0.001 from gravity
I don't think I have a single 90⁰ angle in my house that was built about 30 years ago. I don't think any carpenter on this planet ever worked to a tolerance you just measured. 😂
AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! Dammit man. I saw there was more than one video on the alignment so i didn't jump to the conclusion that you left out the ONLY reason people watched these videos. I know you get something for interactions from videos so i feel real guilty about giving you anything after you've wasted my time, so I'm gonna make it worth my whime to tell you what a jerk you are. Dammit dude. Just show how to make the dang adjustment. Nobody cares how close you got it, but you think we do. So now you're just an a$$.
I think you're making that too hard. You have miter groves on the table top and that's what the fence should be adjusted to. Just loosen the bolts and align it to that (either) groove and tighten. You're done. No caliper needed. Now align the blade to the fence. That's much more challenging because of the trunnion.
This is a great idea. Suggest you move camera so we can see something beyond the back of your arm. Then show us a close up of the chamfer you just made! Keep up the great tips!
I have a question since I got one I am restoring but it is missing the depth stopper and the fence and whenever I look up the fence with the model number I get the 3720 model fence, does it just use the 3720 fence in the 3730 model?
I really don't know. I didn't even know that they made a 3720. I wish I could be more help. May your restoration go well. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Helpful, for the newly mechanic, in my humble opinion, don't forget to get in the car and pump the brakes so the caliber releases, or else there's no need for caliber or pads, gonna have to use your feet to stop the car, bedrock style
The difference is how long they hold squareness after use and wear. Quality heads are Cast iron and big box store square heads combination squares are made of die cast aluminum or ever worse zinc. A dyi homeowner would probably be ok with low end squares a metal worker or a professional would be better off with a cast iron PEC or Starrett. I am not a tool snob and I own a Starrett combination square for metal working layout and a Irwin aluminum head square for woodworking projects.
I used Starrett, Brown and Sharpe, and Mitutoyo machinist's tool for years when I was in the tool shop. Unfortunately, I sold a bunch of that stuff many years ago. I totally agree with you, cast iron/steel heads, that are precision ground, are the way to go. Thanks for your feedback and for watching.
I've been a cabinet maker, furniture builder and a finisher for 40 years. I've used the very worst to the very best measuring and layout tools. I find it interesting that you think homeowners dont want or dont need more precision layout tools. But I get it, "let them eat cake".
I really love your upload!! Thanks a lot for sharing this for us!! Let me tell you something! Enter every activity without giving mental recognition to the possibility of defeat. Concentrate on your strengths, instead of your weaknesses… on your powers, instead of your problems! Believe in yourself! Have faith in your abilities! Without a humble but reasonable confidence in your own powers you cannot be successful or happy. Hope you are doing well and healthy, and I give to you my big like and 🛎 for helping you grow! ❤😊
