@aljohnson2439 any hardwood works, it depends more on what you want to do. If you're just making a plain stick, no carving, I'd go with the hardest wood you could, but if you are wanting to carve I'd go with something a little softer. Sumac, poplar, cedar, even pine.
HI TIM, GREAT VIDEO! BEAUTIFUL WALKING STICK & YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY!!!! WALKING STICKS ARE VERY COOL ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU'RE WALKING UP OR DOWN HILLS! YOU REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR WALKING STICK ON STEEP HILLS OR UNLEVEL GROUND! WALKING STICKS ARE A BLAST BECAUSE THEY ARE "USABLE ART"! FIRST TIME TO YOUR CHANNEL & IT WON'T BE MY LAST!!!! ALWAYS STAY FROSTY & GOD BLESS!
It can, but not always. It depends on the wood, but you can look up the rubbing alcohol and water mixture to spray on the wood. It tends to work better.
Nice to see you both in tune with Christ. Hope this message finds you well and still making your Wee Folk. My Fiddlesticks are travelling around the world now thanks to your inspiration. God bless and keep you. Regards Peter.
Hi, I’ve done this to one of my sticks for aesthetics and to waterproof it, mine is black all over though. I believe charring wood seals it and prevents water getting in. I have seen videos where lengths of wood or wooden shingles are charred before fixing to a roof or the sides of a timber frame building for protection.
Hi again. Its taking hours to get down to a burr using the sandpaper technique (220 grit) I've tried 120 grit also and the blade seems flat to me and I can get burrs in seconds if I do it on a bevel but I don't want a bevel!!!!!! Am I a lost cause? Thanks for your patience. ATB.
@peteswright I'd say you're probably being to hard on yourself! It also depends on the quality of the blade you're working with, but my absolute best suggestion I could give you would be to find Everett Ellenwood's sharpening dvd and just watch it over and over, you'll get way more than I can help you with. Understand I'll stay with you on it as long as you need me, but this is my weakest point, just for full disclosure!
Thanks Tim I've been it touch with his daughter Joanne but with shipping its too expensive, plus its too much of a faf getting the money to her. She says she has some info on his techniques from the magazine you have over in America and will send it to me if she can find it. She has my address and phone number here in the UK. ATB, PETE. @@timpevey868
Tim. I have watched your video over and over but its razing more questions than answers. On the small black knife, when you put it down I can see a small bevel at the cutting edge. I thought the Idea was to start with the knife flat on the 320 grit and take the bevel from there to the spine of the knife, roll a bur turn to the other side and do the same. You can go to higher on that too. Is that bevel still necessary? ATB.
@peteswrighr I'm not quite understanding what you're asking, but the knife you mentioned really has no bevel, I was just using it to show my sharpening process, if you're removing the bevel you'd lay your bevel down and just work it away, it takes time for sure.
After testing that knife after stropping, you put the knife down. At 11.50 there's a good view of that sharp edge that i'm calling a bevel . I assumed there would be a complete flat grind from cutting edge to spine. Hope this helps on my questioning.ATB @@timpevey868
@@peteswright I can see where it might look like a bevel, but I believe what you're seeing is back to what I was saying about stropping correctly. That knife before I got it had been rolled at the end of the strop and rolled that cutting edge, but there's no bevel there, but your notice of it tells me I need to work on it and get rid of that roll, so thank you for that!
I am planning to make a hiking two piece staff out of a dowel. What joint system do you think would be the best? Or is it too much of a weak point to put on a walking stick ( as I plan to use it in a mountain country) If it is possible it would be great because it is really practical to carry that way .
If you use a hardwood dowel it should be fine, just use a quality epoxy. Tree line USA has everything you need, I'm only saying them because they're really the only ones I know.
I don’t see it as cheating at all. I don’t have access to woods so I can go and buy dowel rods or 2x2 and round them for sticks I’m 6 ft I like 6 ft sticks
I remember the incident of the Dentist that was a student in Harold class at a War Eagle Seminar. The dentist reported to us that he did blow into a patients mouth after returning to his Practice in Atlanta, Ga. It has been my pleasure of carving with Harold several times.
The gap space for epoxy is important. Avoid being too meticulous in the fit. Epoxy needs to bond not only to the surface you are glueing, but it also needs its own thickness to really become as strong as it can be - which is impressive. Use enough epoxy to cause it to squish out. Wipe the excess off with denatured alcohol or acetone.
You know, I set beside him carving every week for 7 or 8 years before I decided to video him carving, one of those things you look back on think, "how much of a bonehead can you be?"! 😁
@@timpevey868 around Cabot Arkansas Ward Arkansas and bebe Arkansas.. it's too dangerous to give out phone number or address.. pretty sad that people are like that now..
