The issue with the poor cuts seems to be that the tile is sometimes moving after scribing, either because the tool doesn't have the weight to stay still or because of the overly raised ridge in the middle causing rocking. So it is making the tile slightly angled which means you have uneven pressure along the cut when snapping? I wonder if you would get much better performance if you screwed the tool down as you said, and also placing a sliver of something either side of the ridge to reduce the excessive rocking especially on the smaller tiles.
Definitely would need screwing down to a board or work bench if you were cutting tons of metro tiles, it’s so light and compared to my Sigma cutter where you are scribing towards you you can support the cutter better than scribing away from you. Maybe a bit of extra felt either side of the braking bar would reduce excessive rocking and give more confidence when running the wheel through. Great comment BTW!! 👍🏻
Thanks mate. Never have used levelling clips. I started tiling in the mid 90’s and they just weren’t around, might do a video on it, but might not do well as they’re so go to for tilers now, might get a bit of backlash 😳
These days I prefer butterfly valves, as they are easier to operate, and seem less prone to the dreaded weeping on closing - after a long period of disuse.
Totally agree. Although I do find that butterfly valves (compared to lever valves) can stiffen over time and are hard to turn, especially on 22mm. Revisited a job from five months ago the other day, had to shut off the 22mm butterfly and had to get some grips on to turn the lever. Definitely better than ballofix’s though.
I’ve only tiled up to the edge of my window sill two or three tiles. One is two are sitting proud but one is maybe 1-2mm short. I will do the rest so they are proud and can pack out with adhesive like you said but do you reckon the one that’s fallen short will blend in with grout okay? I don’t want to have to remove it from the wall if I can help it.
I would say if it’s something you will always be bugged by then probably better to replace at this stage whilst you’re still tiling then regret it moving forward and always noticing it. 👍🏻
The bungs can work very well provided the tank connector does not have a groove in it, The plastic speedfit ones seem to be the worst for making a seal with a bung. The brass ones seem much better designed
I would never normally advise to start top down but I had a couple of points that I couldn’t go above and it’s really tricky to measure these tiles accurately. To stop them sagging it’s about using the right consistency of adhesive and troweling the wall horizontally helps. But you can only really get away with it with small tiles like this. 👍🏻
Sadly not as you don’t have a cold water storage tank with a Combi Boiler. Switch the mains water off in the road if the one in the house is seized. 👍🏻
Yes lever valves all the way never had any problems. Had an isolating valve once only installed for couple of years seize up and when turning the screw part leaked with water! Lever valves all the way!
Great video. Couple of questions: 1. Is the process the same if you buy like a ready-made niche to slot into the wall? 2. (Not about the niche) Are you just going to use the existing plasterboard and sand the adhesive off before retiling? I was thinking I'd have to replace the plasterboard in mine when I take the tiles off.
Hi, I’ve never used a ‘ready made’ niche, sounds interesting, I’ll have to take a look! I will repair any damaged plasterboard with aquaboard or tile backer board, scrape off any old loose adhesive, I’m not too worried if there’s some left on the walls and then apply waterproof membrane over the whole area. I’ve made a video on that topic if you’re unsure. All the best with your project! Rob.
Good explanation but have seen on another video where the guy is cutting the wall tiles to overhang by about 9mm and then setting windows trims into the adhesive for them. Your way is how I would do it. Also I see you guys have not used tile levelling systems. On the current project I am using them for the first time because I saw so many reviews making out they were the best thing since sliced bread. But having used them I'm not that impressed. I think they become a hindrance especially when you're having to push a tile well down and adhesive is pushing through the grout lines. It sticks onto the levelling spacers and makes the gaps even bigger and harder to resolve. I work much better just using my eye, a level/straight edge and standard spacers.
Thanks for this. I think different people overhang more (or less) if they’re using different trim profiles or setting the trim in weird ways. I started tiling before these levelling systems were invented. I’ve tried them but can’t get on with them to be honest - they’re a bit misleading I think - they can make a tile flat but not necessarily level, they’re two very different things. I agree with you, just take your time with eye and feel and you can’t go wrong. All the best with the projects bud! Rob.
Hi Lester, very informative video, can i ask , what options are there if you have a newly tiled shower /bath room and there is no access to put in isolation valves for a new bar shower, what would you do in this situation, i would also like to see more videos of you working on a project, tiling, plumbing etc. Tips for diyers, thanks love your work.
The one in the video is 1mm from the lighting circuit as are most shaver sockets in bathrooms. But always check the spec on the product you’re buying. Hope that helps? Rob.
Thanks for your quick reply! I'll be installing the same 'proofvision' but likely the double version. Do you think that will still be okay on a 1mm cable? Thanks so much for your video and help!
It really depends on which finish you choose. There are high gloss finish Porcelain tiles that would be considered slippery, but if you chose a matte/textured finish it would be fine.
Ha ha! Got to be in the hundreds! As soon as you look in the airing cupboard and you see the old fashioned ones with the weird spiral handles you know it’s not happening!! 😂😂😅😅
I've never actually snapped one but have often had to remove the wheel and use a spanner on the spindle. Even so, rarely have I had one that completely shuts the water off which then involves draining or stopping up the Cold Water tank. I would never fit one!
@@stephenweston1807 so true! Even if you have one that turns off, it never fully shuts off the water, even if pinched with grips! Why are they still in production??
