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Most prop strikes are people going on wrong side of the marker outside of the channel been on the Trent over 30 years. A certain company is renting boats no license required recipe for disaster
Agreed. The bigger risk during our travel was having to pass a larger vessel heading towards us in a tight channel. We just shut it down to an idle and got close and personal. No sense pushing out past the markers like you say.
We traveled through with a boat draft of around three feet without issues, other than weeds. As long as you stick to the marked canals. There are spots where the canals are too narrow to pass another boat. It is very rocky - these are the spots that are scary. The weed risk is more on your shaft bearings and transmission. Puts quite a drag on them chewing up a lake of weeds. I wouldn't go through myself, in a bigger boat than we did.
Service Manager here, The reason for regularly checking your brake fluid and exchanging it at the proper, manufacturer specified, interval is a good thing is because of two reasons: 1. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water. Water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid (in fact, brake fluid is rated based on boiling point, with DOT 4 being the highest). Over time water gets absorbed, applying your brakes creates friction which converts kinetic energy (motion) into heat energy (friction) which helps to slow and eventually stop the car. If too much water gets absorbed into your braking system, it boils off leaving a void in the hydraulic system. Liquid cannot be compressed, but gasses can. Water vapor being a gas will compress, making your brakes not function as well as it should. Excessive moisture in your brake fluid causes a squishy or spongy/soft brake pedal that requires more pedal travel before it starts to engage. The other issue with moisture is that it can cause corrosion in the brake lines. 2. Most of your brake hard-line and even the hoses have a copper coated lining on the inside of the brake lines. Moisture and heat creates corrosion which will eat through the copper lining and can cause your brake lines to fail. Brake fluid, much like motor oil, has additives in it to prevent corrosion. Over time those additives break down and stop working properly. Combine the two and you have old, dirty fluid that no longer is actively preventing corrosion as well as excessive moisture that boils off and actively causes corrosion. Both of these things are very bad for your brakes and will eventually cause your braking system to fail. This is why most manufacturers recommend changing the brake fluid at specific intervals. Check your owner's manual to find out when to do it. Some manufactures have stopped issuing specific mileage and instead use a "test-to-replace" system. A good rule of thumb is to change it every 60k miles. Or you can find a shop that uses test strips to test for copper content, around 200-300 copper parts per million (ppm) is when it's time to change it. You can also buy a tool that measures moisture content and change it when it tells you. But please do change it. Don't ignore it or it could lead to costly repairs down the road!!
God, how I miss American toilets, with the tank right there so you can just lift the lid and fix the problem. Here in Argentina, most toilets have the tank INSIDE THE WALL, and you can't see WTF is going on.
The one HUGE factor you left out was the Pozidive. Invented by GKN in the UK in the 60s , able to overcome the main problems of the Phillips drive of cam out and able to apply higher torque force to the screw. It is the most ubiquitous screw/screwdriver system in the world. Also, the square screw drive is the main reason I dumped the Kreg pocket hole system for one that uses Torx 😊
Hi Mike, great point. The Pozidriv was a major enhancement on the Pillips style screw head and driver. Ikea use them in our area. Made a huge difference for torque, as you mention. Thanks for bringing these up!
