I am looking at a Ford 550 backhoe and the backhoe itself will only swing left and right maybe 10° what can be causing that.? Just buying it to do some digging around my 40 acres digging up stumps and whatever if I buy it, but I’d like to find out what it would cause that problem.
MF 135 probably 60s or 70s model. Perkins 3 cylinder diesel. Hung in one gear, I think third. Can’t get in reverse either. Prior to fatal accident one year ago, deceased brother in law, we think he said it wouldn’t go into 2nd. Never said anything about reverse issue. It sat in field next to accident site for a year before I decided to go get it working again. Did and drove it carefully for about 1/2 mile in whatever gear it was locked in. High/low works and replaced hydraulic fluid Saturday and got lift working. Need all gears and especially reverse working. Property needs major bush hogging. Saw some vids suggesting use long screwdriver in fluid entry hole to pry over a gear. Your thought please sir. Learning a lot but new to me. Any help appreciated
I will try your stuck valve theory on my 1986 Long 2360. My three-point hitch was working before and after working on my control valve manifold, the hitch will not go up or down as if there is no hydraulic pressure. I did add hydraulic oil to the reservoir because it was way low. I can pick up the three point levers in the back and the arms go up and down easily. Just dead! I hope there is nothing too seriously wrong. Is there such a thing as removing air form the hydraulic system
Not really as far as air... but also make sure the draft control lever is not activated. If you worked on the lever quadrant at all it is very eSy to have the draft engaged which will make your hydro system act wonky. FYI the draft lever is a Cresent shaped lever usually underneath your everyday position levers
My 550 backhoe transmission will work Forward and reverse only for about 45 seconds. Then I have to wait for about an hour for it to cool down and then it will work again. Any tips?
Ford 555 drives forward and reverse just that it's the opposite lever position And when drive on the road sometimes the tractor will almost stall and if you put it in neutral will start drive in the opposite normal direction of travel
The 6.4 is known for pushing a lot of vapor of out the oil fill cap. As long as there isn't pressure behind it, you're fine....for now. The 6.4 is still a money pit.
Pretty sure the float bowl zone doesn’t matter as fuel level doesn’t get anywhere near there with an operating needle stopper in the fuel inlet and the Venturi center makes that an air chamber anyways so might run a touch rich if anything, and updraft motors should be rich. Outer edges matter if you care that much but draft is pulling air inward so not much getting out that high. Gasket seals imperfections between the two and the brass gas drip balls for a ford, screen for continental and others at the bottom is going to leak both directions anyways.
This is true..... only if the tractor stays on level ground or stationary! but most tractors are titled in furrows with plows and up/down extreme angles on hills, bouncing around on rough ground in fields etc. Fuel is constantly sloshing around in there.
The only reason I could think of would be if there was an engineering redesign requirement for one of the sides. This would allow them to change one and keep the opposite side intact. Also, no need to update any part reference documentation.
Needs a new return spring seams like. Every starters different so i could be wrong. I used to work for A&S Ignition in Patterson N.Y used to deliver arts for them all iver new york it was an awesome job to have and i learned a little bit while i was there driving.
Best to see the link here... should take you directly at the time in the video where we set those adjustments >>>> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qL_iyNAkBL4.htmlsi=FoDLU1xGQhHzh3Pi&t=1582
No... Vapor lock is the "Boiling" of the fuel in the line or carburetor bowl.. think old school science class.. like a pressure cooker... as the temperature of the liquid rises-- so does the pressure.. eventually the pressure will be high enough to prevent the liquid from flowing as it should. Older carbureted cars would have this issue in summer days in hot climates sitting at long stoplights or idle long periods.. and would start to run rough or skip etc... would have to turn them off for a while to cool down then they would run correctly again.
@MMSAGRIBUSINESS thanks so much for responding! I posted this video in need of help and a couple ppl suggested my issue is vapor lock. Would you agree? ru-vid.comlzDO5aAWQ34?si=4DQh8ktpq8Fn9jPc
This actually sounds ignition related!! Of course Im not there, so I am going by what I see and hear.. Almost like an ignition coil getting hot and failing.,.. Does this tractor have the big square coil on the front of the engine? or is the distributor on the side of the engine. Also.. will it restart and run after a few minutes or maybe an hour..?? ( run until it huckups again?) and just for giggles... try running without the fuel cap on... just to make sure its not creating a vacuum in the tank .
What would cause fluid to leak out of this valve? I was likely putting too much weight on the 3pt and noticed fluid coming out of this valve. Now the 3pt is stuck in the up position even with the lift lever pushed all the way forward. Does this sound like a stuck valve or something more serious? Also wondering if I just need to add some fluid to it. If the fluid level got too low would it cause the 3pt to stop working?
Fluid can leak out of there.If there is too much weight .. it is a relief valve Which is the intended outcome . As far as it's staying up, There is a secondary lever below your regular control levers. It is curved it looks like it wraps around the control lever box that is your draft control. You may want to make sure that lever is in the correct position. In one position it allows normal up down position control and in the other position is draft which will be either fully raised or fully lowered
My son has an International 184 with the same problem 👍 Also are you familiar with governor issues? If so he changed his governor and the tractor wouldn’t start after that, backfiring out the intake, I pulled it, rotated the gear 180 and it’s doing the same thing. Thanks
Yep, I screwed up. Knowing next to nothing about cars I did exactly as you said and got the clutch stuck open. If it wasn't for your video I would still be shaking my head. A sincere Thank you for taking the time to post this video.
Something that is also overlooked when having a flywheel turned most people dont put shims on the crank before installing the flywheel.We did it once and had to do the job again,the boss chew the machine shop and said if you dont do your job right ill find a shop that will.From then on we always got a sheet saying how much was taken off and a shim to take up the difference.It makes it so much easier to set the clutch up.
I have a 24T2 Zenith on a52 tea 20 same thing but gets worse as she warms up,starts runs then dies out, choke works for a while,then quit, wait a minute then starts again only to quit again
When this happens... try immediately removing the fuel tank cap.. pay attention to any sounds like pressure relieving or suction sounds like opening a soft drink.. Even if you dont hear any of these noises.. try to restart with the cap removed . Also pay attention to the fuel level in the sediment bowl assembly. It is very possible that the nut is too tight.. especially on newer replacement bowls. People will over tighten them to stop a slow drip at the bowl.. and that will actually deform the assembly where it will not flow at full volume. If the second issue is the problem ,, the fix is to replace the gasket in the bowl assembly with a CORK version!! Either make your own from cork sheets or can be ordered pre-made through amazon etc..
I've noticed that dame issue over the years. I've had great luck with the cast iron carburetor. And almost always had leak's on the pot metal carburetor. In the past I've checked with a file and then used Indian Head to seal it up after rebuild just because of this same design flaw. Great advice and I always thought I must have done something wrong in the past. But seems it's not me it's just junk from the factory.
Great video and explanation on tractor shifter problems and hang-ups. Thanks! Makes me wonder why they won't put a grease fitting to keep shafts shifting slick.
Hey man...thanks for the tip! Have a starter where the drive gear cracked, so ordered a replacement. Will need to be able to compress old drive so I can get the pin out. Your video shows me how.
I picked up my first 9n at an auction. The day I picked it up we had to bump start it to put it on the trailer. Have used it just a few times since and like everyone, was hard starting and next thing I know ga dripping out. Today went out and tried to start it and same thing. Ended up having to charge the battery twice. Finally took carb off cleaned it out but it was not bad. Put back together and a few more tries it started up. Had to start twice after that and same issues. But it started. Found this video and immediately went out to look at the plugs. Tractor has 437s in it, all carboned up and gapped too wide. Came right back in and ordered up a set of the 216s. Wish me luck but after reading all the comments I think I found a solution!! Thank you, I will reply back!
