Что сказать, красавчик! при наличии растяжки для колец - выбивал киянкой, полировального станка - шлифовал руками. Не удивлюсь если у него есть насадка алмазный диск на бор-машинку или фреза или гильотина, но он распилил лобзиком. Заметил что потери металла он не собирает, наверное из дешевых металлов, кустарь.
Im not sure how its better but I can tell you that my hoke torch was leakey and so were the ones at a place I used to work at. I switched over to the mini torch and have no regrets. Thanks for your interest.
@@masterworksjewellerybyjona3255 The Hoke is far more versatile. It accepts a wide variety of tips from large to small. It can melt a much larger quantity of metal, solder a heavy shank or do the finest chain repair. You can use it one handed and easily adjust the flame with your thumb. The mini torch is too wimpy. I routinely size gold rings while holding them in my fingers. Get in, get it hot, make the solder flow and quench it before the stone gets hot. No messing around pulling and resetting stones, no wet tissue paper or wet sand. That's how you size a ring fast. The mini torch could never do that. I worked in a wholesale trade shop, we had a 24 hr. turnaround time for sizings. No one used the mini torch.
@@desmondmurphy449 Awesome, sounds like it the perfect product for you to continue to use. It was not for me so I tried something different. I really enjoy hearing about and sharing about different experiences. appreciated Jonathan
Thank you for your wonderful video! I would love to see more mokume gane-how you make the billet and create the patterning. Which metals did you use in this ring? When making gold mokume gane have you found some combinations that work really well and others that should be avoided?
hi Jonathan! Great video, thank you so much for sharing your process. I'm curious, how did you calculate the gauge needed in wire form to mill flat and to the width you want? Looked like around 2mm round after you planished, then filed a flat to help start the milling process?Thanks for your help!
I always roll out the width of the ring first and then roll it to the proper length. I also know the thickness I want to achieve. The first few rings I made I had to estimate the length of the planished mokume rod needed to cover the liner ring. I was able to narrow it down and create a system based on percentages. If I know that a 72mm length would cover the liner ring I multiply it by a certain percentage for the wide bands and another percentage for the narrow rings. I have to keep in mind that I need to have sets of diagonals at both ends of the rolled out piece so I can create the hidden seam in the diagonal lines of the pattern. This system also allows me to figure out billet lengths for rings wider or narrower than I normally make.
