This channel is about my 1991 500SL Roadster , I'm not the best at doing video work but will keep uploading things about my car, I've had it for about 5 years now and have done the soft top hydraulic cylinders, lots of electrical and ignition repairs , the car is sorted now and a blast to drive, they say the 91 had the most HP out of the 12 year run, it came with 322HP. It had 34K on the clock when I bought it and its now a tic over 38K, I'm in Southern California close to San Diego , so weather is very nice and can drive it year round! I keep all my car stuff here, so some video on 1990 Mercedes W126 300SE sold, 1978 Chevy 3/4 truck(non German) sold, 1992 Mercedes W124 300E ,my sons car, runs great!
Better off just getting a used one from the junk yard. Too much work is involved, plus you're Mickey mousing something that will literally save your life or whoever drives that car. If you ever sell it, please disclose that to the buyer
Never heard of it lol, make sure it’s fire proof, the pads they sell us are cut pretty nice for our cars, but it’s just cheap crap! I really like the fiber pad on our W124, 30 years old and still holding up.
Hi was wondering if you can help me. I have to disconnect and reconnect my battery to get the top working. Once I get it to work properly it will keep working great. The problem of that once I drive it somewhere it won’t close. It thinks it’s closed because the pump will only try if I pull back the tab. I then have to disconnect and reconnect the battery until the soft top starts working again. Again. It will work perfectly once I do this. But once I drive it somewhere I’ll have to reset it again. Thanks. Idk where to figure this out.
Never heard of that one? Maybe there’s stored codes? I would ask BenzWorld R129 forum, lots of of helpful folks there, register, always put your year and model in post, good luck.
Another great video !. GoPro looks good , sound too. I know what your next video will be about: Headliner 😁😁..Quick question: Is the cover on the 300E shiny, like "sun repellent" ? And if it is do you happen to remember where did you get it? Thank you.
Got it for free from Amazon, I review items for Amazon they send stuff to me, review and keep the product, it's a cheaply made cover, you can see my review. www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1R721DN?th=1
I have a 89 mercedes 190e I am also in socal . Have you ever had a check engine light go on ? Do you know the common issues . I see the difference in codes from 85 to 89 to 90 and above
Usually it’s the 02 sensor, that was on my 90 300SE and the 92 300E, if you search the net you can replace it with a early Mustang one, cheap about $30 instead of $90 for OEM In my experience with these cars it’s always emission related.
I got an 88’ 300E about a year ago, will be doing a whole tune up and vibrating dampener replacement which I hope isn’t too hard for me to do😅 but they do seem like smooth rides 😎
@@infiniteblessings6793 About the vibration dampener (aka harmonic balancer) . Despite what the MB manual says you do not need to remove the center bolt, actually you don't want to because that thing will require a 200 ft lbs of torque and locked transmission.
@@mygermancars7264 thank you so much for getting back . Would you say a 1990 mustang would fit ? Are you talking about splicing it ? Or do you have a specific year of the mustang
@@AlonSOAMAZING This www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZEJCY?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=mycars0c-20&linkId=360c7d0d3cca067fdfd1f5afa9759665&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Nice clean looking car. Working on my neighbors 92 red convertible with 31k miles on it that has been sitting in my court for the last 7 years. They do run hard and sound good too. Indiana is the wrong state for these cars!!😂
My driver mirror is really hard to adjust and doesn’t move much my seal is all crack, hard and have a big gap so i spray penetrating oil for now i guess i need to replace both mirror seal and what’s binding great video i just recently got a 190e im trying to restore thanks
@@mygermancars7264 Did it burn oil before that and if so how much per 1000 miles? Did it fix it? How much is it burning now? Mine burns around a quart per 1k miles, engine has no leaks at all. And also, did it idle smother with new lifters? Mine runs perfectly, except that the engine shakes ever-so-slightly at idle rpm. I am dealing with my m103 for years now and I can assure that everything else is top notch with the engine, but yet it shakes a little bit at idle. Cheers!
@@mygermancars7264 engine and trans mounts were replaced recently. No, I mean it misfires once in a while, I know for sure that injectors’ spray pattern at idle is perfect, and that the same amount of fuel goes to all 6 cylinders, there’s no problem with ignition either. All 6 cylinders have great compression within +-3% difference. And of course no vacuum leaks. I have replaced literally everything on this engine in 5 years I own this car, but it is misfiring at idle same exact way when Got it. That’s my last resort, I suspect that one or more lifter got stuck and do not compress like some of yours, which causes valves to open at idle more than they should. The car now has 144k miles, it had 114k when I got it.
Isn’t fun lol, stuck lifter you should hear it big time, maybe one is not holding its oil? On ours one day I heard tapping, it would come and go, on cold start it was very loud, that means it’s not holding it oil, some oil should stay overnight, so just replaced all and running diesel oil, it’s thicker and it stays in lifters overnight. Run your problem in BenzWorld, those guys have helped me for years.
No idea, it screws in fine, they all do over the years, but under pressure oil finds its way out, watched a certified Benz mechanic, and he used teflon tape.
@@mygermancars7264 thank you for fast reply. I’m trying to replace the OEM electric sensor with a mechanical gauge and I need to find the thread pitch to get an adapter to make it work.
I got rid of my fan clutch and fan and went with dual 12in fans controlled by a davies craig fan controller. Now my car runs 80c on 95deg day running ac and no lost power due to tan and clutch. And looks factory
@mygermancars7264 I used a pair of mishimoto 12 in fans and davies craig digital fan controller. Easy install and very reliable. You can program desired operating temp. I got tired of my car running hot and power loss due to fan. You don't realize how much power loss there is from fan till it's gone. I would never go back to original fan.
I replaced that sensor about 4 times over the years thinking it was bad, after a lot of research I learned how to test them, turns out all four tested good lol.
87 c is like 190 f for me to hot in the summer I’ll put it back in in the winter . These cars Iove cold wether . Someone said it would run about 55 c with out thermostat that’s about 110 f that sould be good in the summer
These cars just run hot during the summer months, crazy system, I’ve replaced every part of cooling system and it still runs hot in stop and go traffic with AC on, the AUX fans high speed hack I did allows me to control them, turn them on with dash mounted switch, that. Brings temperature down in 30 seconds! I think installing electric fans instead of clutch fan would solve the issue permanently, all modern cars have that setup.
@@jimmycarter9099 hope that helps you, on my 92 with the M103, the only time it starts getting hot is when using the AC , stop and go traffic, outside temps around 85F, the gauge starts going over the 100c mark which is 212F, that’s when high speed fan should kick in, to test the system, turn key to #2 position, engine off , hvac off, pull electrical connection at 2 pin blue sensor , high speed fan should activate, if does good, if it doesn’t, then you have to find out why, the signal wire goes to push button unit in dash, that unit sends signal to relay in fuse box, from there signal/power goes to ballast resistor by headlight, then to fans. High speed fan is critical to bring temperature down. That’s just a test for fans. The entire system has to be 100%, fan clutch has to be good, in stop and go traffic it doesn’t lock up and cool, it only locks up at 3K rpm when you’re driving, Mercedes did that so your not stressing engine and better mpg. Make sure your engine cooling system is 100%, coolant flow, electrical part of system, if using AC system right pressure’s, pressure sensors etc. As you can see it’s a pain in the ass to have it 100% lol. I spent over 1K getting it to 100%, but still where I live it can be 100F every day during summer time and this German car just doesn’t like it. If I had to do it over I would have removed the fan clutch, installed an electric cooling fan in its place, tied to sensor, that would be more forgiving and work like all modern cars.
You're highlighting some extremely important things that NO ONE knows about on the m103 Mercs of this era! Thank you for making this! Would be absolutely worth it to add Timestamps especially when you talk about Freon pressure, and its effect on the low speed circuit of the aux fan! So crucial
Good info. Thanks for sharing. No matter how hard I tried to remove the front ones on my 300E I couldn't do it - it's stuck pretty hard and I'm afraid I will brake the hard line it's attached to.
I'm kind of confused. I thought the four pin thermostat sensor at the back of engine controlled the aux fans. But it's 2 pressure switches? My aux fans are always on and I'm trying to figure out what actually controls on and off on these fans. Is it the pressure switches? Thermostat sensor? Ac or freon level? Do they turn on when AC turn on? My ac doesn't work so do I have to get the AC compressor to work before I get the fans to work. It's like you said everything has to work perfect or nothing works.. I'm going insane.
The 4 pin is for fuel management , the blue 2 pin is for AUX fans, wires for it go to climate control unit in dash, the signal then goes to relay that powers AUX fans , the pressure switch at receiver dryer turns on low speed fans when AC is on, I think there's also a high speed fan pressure switch there that senses really hot freon temps, it activates to protect AC system. Its a strange system for sure, if your low on freon the low speed AUX function won't work., if your fans are on from the get go, the 2 pin could be bad.
I got mine from ebay, there's one guy in europe that makes them, 3D printed. his name is Ákos Gönczi, www.ebay.com/itm/403004285733?fits=Model%3A500SL%7CMake%3AMercedes-Benz&epid=1928554901&itmmeta=01HWEQ8X16SKBZAYS2K33DCN92&hash=item5dd4ed6325:g:i28AAOSwoPFlnAM5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LAbu4rh1fRoTH5V8AD1g8dVbkd1EtB49b%2FhqF94jsirVM0FHnDoHVbOa8l0B0KzCfsDNAucwhwRpieN%2BApzJY6SCf5GyqWl%2BIU7T1573fbPN5rhVtIw1Xnn7%2Bk97dCV1x2--X8%2B91S0GDJx7PGWCKRbkT4Wlub3x4JJOdavTKWYmbFleg50tiieSqyUfceN42q8n9XhPy5n3F4jXb7avsOYyDrARQOmquWUZhXeKoYZXjYsvtEzvFC8UA--d1hw%2F9gsNOwToajrKAgKyyLfJaDoa1mQkQ%2FAxyZEvxt2qoxvknpKPLXocjV6wO3q0LnvgA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4NCj1-Nj
I don't know if my message went through. I am watching your video 1991 R129 Seat Track Repair Part 1. Where can I purchase the gears shown in the video?
Thanks for the earlier video with fans and wiring color talk.. I made a pretend coolant temp sensor with speaker wire banana plugs, some resistors to ground & it got computer out of limp-mode(?) so far. New part on way - that woke up my Aux fans & altered idle a bit. The info on the computer & wiring is a help trying to fix where mechanic tried to get starter to go when it was a bad neutral safety switch (they only disabled my cabin fan somehow & offered to give car to charity & me a donation slip). I towed it to relatives house and put in the switch - fixed. For this one - The dealer price on rotors was lowest price one time I checked - they order & ship by the case... They sent the right longer brake wear sensors for my W124, early 94 and also right back to the 1970/80's W123's - the plastic wears thru & shorts a wire to the rotor lighting up the warning light while wire lasts - reusable until they get triggered. There may be a nice to change each decade rubber dirt seal around the caliper pistons. I'd have thought opening bleeder more, or just gravity and the squeezie vacuum (to -14 psi) would have sucked juice out the back line fine. Pressing pedal once & hold is good too. Somewhere it was a good idea to change all brake fluid at some interval because it can collect moisture & blackness. Memories & food for future fixes. Other adventure - Back of head has coolant connector with a nice $2 o-ring where it took a few evenings 2 wrenches & valve grinding compound for more friction.. to get the 2 bolts out.. Symptom was a small waterfall out the back of the head. Got to borrow truck, rent trailer, tow it home 160 miles & ride a mega-bus. It helps having blogs & videos at peachparts, pelicanparts, fcpeuro, ipdusa(volvo), youtube... MB seems to change stuff more than Volvo.
