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I just traded for this 05 Titan and now that it's getting cold i noticed it only blows air out of the dash vents. I looked up actuators and it popped up your video. Thanks for the detailed replacement info. I've been dreading it, but it looks much easier than the one i replaced on our Ford Flex. Just ordered the actuator. It'll be nice to have a defroster in a couple weeks😂
You’re welcome! Yes, the mode actuator is somewhat simple to replace, as long as you don’t have the Rockford Fosgate stereo system (that significantly restricts access). It does require laying on your back and some hand gymnastics, but still relatively straightforward. I haven’t had to replace the temperature actuator on mine, but I’ve heard it is extremely hard to access.
So I’ve replaced the driver and passenger side actuator because my heat only worked on the passenger side side. After replacing it, the heat worked on the driver side, but after changing the temperature knob, it started to blow cold air on the driver side. Do you think i need to replace it again or is it something else?
@@FixandMaintain no it was ticking a couple years ago and I replaced the passenger side actuator which stopped the ticking. It hasnt ticked since and most recently I changed the actuator due to the heat not working
I’m not sure. You can test it by removing the actuator, then plugging it back in and testing it with it not installed. Also check to see if you can turn the blend door itself or if it is stuck.
Good video. I repaired mine, but unfortunately I believe at least one of the springs are worn to the point where they no longer provide adequate pressure on the copper contacts. I'll be replacing it with an aftermarket ignition switch.
Hi I recently picked up a 2011 titan. When the engine is cold I removed the radiator cap and started the engine to check for any bubbles once it warms up but almost instantly upon starting the coolant gushes like a burst water main.... I can't imagine a head gasket problem as the car runs perfectly fine with no power issues. Do you habe an idea why it's gushing out on a cold engine ? It doesn't appear to loose fluid ( unless the radiator caps off per above). Thanks and great tutorial! Subd
Running the engine with the radiator cap off is really only for topping off the coolant in the radiator (before it's completely full) after a coolant change. If it’s already full, the flow from the water pump and the thermal expansion from the engine will certainly cause it to start overflowing. Since your system shouldn't have air bubbles in it, just make sure it's topped off when the engine is cold (and not running). Then, go back and check it and the reservoir again later (with it COLD) after running the engine to see if it needs to be topped off again. In case you want to know the science behind it: The radiator cap is needed to raise the pressure in the cooling system because pressures above atmospheric pressure actually raise the boiling temperature of the water/coolant mix. That way the high temps in the engine don't just create steam inside the cooling system. When there's no air in the system, it should dump any excess coolant into the reservoir if it goes above the preset pressure due to thermal expansion. But then, as the system cools, the hose going to the reservoir will draw coolant back in like a syphon to keep the system full.
Thanks so much for taking time to respond! I bought you a coffee! (Well an espresso anyway). This is the first car/ truck I've owned where when the engine is cold and the radiator cap off that coolant has flowed out like a running tap. Is there something different with a titan compared to say a corolla? It still seems to weird to me but ok I'll take your advice and make sure it's topped off then after a drive just make sure the overflow stays put.... please don't let it be a head gasket as I stupidly didnt check when I bought the truck.
Thanks! I haven't ever started my Titan with a full radiator with the engine cold and radiator cap off, but I have seen similar coolant overflow on other vehicles. As long as your oil is normal, exhaust is normal, power is normal, and the coolant level stabilizes after refilling, you should be fine.
I have a question so my car blows cold air when the ac and heat is on. I was starting to think it’s my thermostat but my car doesn’t over heat so what problem am I having? Do I need to replace both?
@dashawnchill5033 the coolant should be completely full (at the top) under the “radiator cap” when the engine is cold. I use quotations since it’s to the left of the engine and not exactly on the radiator like a traditional car, but it is technically the radiator cap. Then, the reservoir should be at the full line, which if I remember right, is somewhere below halfway on the white plastic tank.
After changing my plugs in my 2012 Traverse it’s saying stable track disabled and check engine light flashing. Any idea? Bad plug? I did remove the cover to access the rear plugs. Probably should’ve did it your way. Great video.
@@FixandMaintain Thanks for replying. No ABS light and no misfire. More like rough idling that worsens in hills or quick acceleration. When letting up on the gas the light stops blinking after 30 seconds. I’ve only driven it a couple miles for testing. I’m thinking a bad plug? They are the same as originally installed AC Delco Possibly I didn’t get the intake gaskets back on properly?
I think either of those are plausible. If you have a scan tool, that would be the best way to diagnose. If you don’t have one, most major auto parts stores will scan codes for free.
@@FixandMaintain I should invest in a scan tool, just not sure I’d understand what it says. I’ll take another look tomorrow. Nearest store is 5 miles away and I’m afraid to drive it that far. Thanks again
I have the Harbor Freight version of this amzn.to/3NdS10g that I picked up a few years ago and it's the perfect size for throwing in a vehicle tool bag. Its button layout is a little weird, but gets the job done. It gives both the code and a small description. But if that's not enough info, just googling the code will be enough to figure out what's going on. There are more expensive scan tools that have even more features, but that one covers all the basics with check engine and ABS codes.
I followed the instructions with surgical precision. During the compression phase, the adhesive let go of the plastic, allowing the resin pressure to bleed off. At this point the adhesive is contaminated. Being that I'm miles from town, there's no getting a replacement kit before it cures. Be aware there are better kits on the market, even though this is a fantastic video on how to do the repair. I suspect the kit had been on the shelf too long, and the adhesive was not as strong as it should be. There's no way to correct this problem at this point. The other version with suction cups is far more reliable and robust.
That’s no good. Yes, I think your suspicion is accurate. I’ve used a couple of these kits over the years and haven’t had any issues. I’ve also used a roll of similar double-sided adhesive with a hole punched in the middle to utilize the same kit on multiple chips (using a USB powered UV light to cure one while going through the filling process on the next chip) with similar success.
Great how to video. I didn't get these headlights but I got other new ones and need to replace them on 04 titan. I like that you named all the bulbs needed also. 👍🏾
@@FixandMaintain So the inexpensive Permatex kit is geared towards amateur DIY repairs versus Clearshield that’s geared towards professionals. Got it. Thanks 🙏
Not that I’m aware of, but I’m not sure why they wouldn’t sell it separately. I hate that Chevy removed the fob program feature from the menu. With older models, it was a setting in the info center to learn new remotes.
I just bought a 2008 Impala 3.5 with 88k miles for 3k at the dealership i work for! Due to some paint fade, they didn't want to sell it on the lot. They had it due to be shipped out for wholesale, so i inspected it and bought it. Nothing is majorly wrong with it. One of the door switches is broken so its always reading door ajar, and the tire pressure sensors are dead. Otherwise in fantastic shape. Its been parked since 2021, it was a rehabilitation centers transport vehicle and they traded it in while we were having a sale. It has new tires, newer brakes etc. I'm going to be swapping all fluids soon, first thing is the oil. This video shows me that this is going to be an easier oil change than our Lexus. Thank you so much for the video!
Wow, that’s a great deal! You’re welcome! I’m pretty sure the switch for the door is embedded in the door latch/lock assembly. The tire sensor are fairly cheap for a 4 pack of no-name sensors on Amazon and can even be replaced without a machine if you know what you’re doing or when you get new tires, hand them to the mechanic to replace at the same time. To program them, spend the extra $10 to get the single button program tool, put it in learning mode with the key on and push door lock/unlock simultaneously on the key fob, then go around LF, RF, RR, LR. Mine was a super reliable car and got fantastic gas mileage for its size and age. Hopefully yours will be as well.
Wear ring is designed to break if need be to save the impeller. Now you run the risk of sacrificing your impeller and wear ring if something goes wrong💰💰💰 for 1-2mph gain.
Comparing SS vs a new plastic wear ring should be similar performance. However, SS should last the life of the PWC. In fact, Yamaha only uses metal wear rings in the waverunner. I believe the two main reasons BRP uses plastic in the SeaDoo is 1. Cost and 2. Corrosion resistance in saltwater (versus the SS lined aluminum housings in a waverunner).
@@JackJones-fg1jx I'm also typically on the bandwagon of leaving things OEM. However, for my specific use case (relatively deep freshwater lakes), I think the SS wear ring was the best option for longevity. I can't imagine how the impeller would ever touch the wear ring inside a metal jet pump housing unless something got inside that would cause major driveshaft, impeller, and jet pump damage anyway. That being said, I did have to upgrade the original composite jet pump housing in that naturally aspirated GTX to a metal one from the supercharged version due to the previous owner riding in shallow water and sucking up rocks (damaging both the impeller and the jet pump vanes behind the impeller). With the composite jet pump housing, I can see there is the potential for slight flex that might cause the impeller to touch the wear ring. However, if that were the case, you should know there's a problem because you'd constantly be replacing plastic wear rings with consistent impeller marks (like I was with the old, damaged plastic jet pump housing).
Thanks for the video I wish you had shown how to get the glove box out of the way. That's what I came to the video for to see how to do that but you left that out
It’s super easy. When I open the glove box in the video, you can see my had slide in the middle, then push down. That will allow it to get past the tabs that catch on each side.
No, not for brakes. I’m a little picky about the oil I put in the engine, but the other fluids, I just make sure they meet the spec recommended by the manufacturer.
You’re welcome! Yeah, it’s one of those things that you don’t ever think of being a problem area, but glad it’s a (somewhat) easily accessible part when it starts going out.
Im noticing that when i turn my Armada off my cluster dials are ticking or jittering as well as the blend doors stuttering open an closed..can this draw power an drain my battery or should i be looking for my power draw from somewhere else???
I’m not sure what would cause the gauge cluster dials to tick when it’s off. I know when my actuator went out, it would click for a short time after turning the truck off, but it would always stop after a minute or so.
Thank you for the video bro. Dealership wanted to charge me close to $1300 to replace my alternator. The Alternator was expensive but with your own effort saved me 4:01 a lot of money.
My guy thank you! My 2012 titan has been doing the click think for a few months. Bought the part the other day. Today it took me 8 times to get it going. Got to work, grabbed a screwdriver and in ten minutes I was done. Hardest part was trying to get my old butt in there.lol
@@FixandMaintain would you care for some pictures of what a really bad one looks like inside? Cracked mine open today. Burnt marks, flat copper points, etc.
Sure, that would be interesting to compare to what mine looked like. Mine would always start by the second attempt. My email is fixandmaintainchannel@gmail.com.
Because it’s just filling the chip with clear resin. It’s not going to completely eliminate the chip, but it will help keep it from creating a running crack along the windshield.
Before you had changed the ignition cylinder, did you have a single click sound under the hood? Trying to see if I need to replace the starter or this.
Man I'm glad I found your channel this morning. My 2006 did this until the AT went out and I got a used 2012 that does the same thing. I figured out how to fix my ignition tune key issue and this today.
Depends on if you have dual climate control or not. I believe it’s 3 without dual climate control, 4 with. Thankfully the only one that has gone out for me is the mode actuator, which thankfully is the easiest to replace.
I would say it’s more of leaving the cap off to while you completely fill the radiator to avoid air pockets being trapped in the engine block rather than “bleeding off” the air. But as soon as it’s full, go ahead and put the cap back on to prevent thermal expansion from causing it to overflow.
Thanks. Maybe 1-2mph, but not a noticeable top end speed difference versus the stock impeller. But, a huge hole-shot improvement as I mentioned in the video from the poor clearance in the damaged stock impeller. The engineers at BRP paired that particular stock impeller with the engine for optimal performance. I’m normally keeping things stock when possible, but the price difference was too much to ignore when I needed to replace my prop.
