FTP Speed Shop is one man working out of his garage, trying to turn his automotive dreams into reality, and giving you some helpful tech along the way. Join us on this journey through the struggles and successes. As I (Mike) try to keep my automotive dreams alive and make new ones along the way. So get in, sit back, and strap in, cause we are going for a ride.
Your best option is to find a third gen rearend that had disk brakes (89 or later), and you can put a posi in it and the 4th gen rear brakes (backing plate and calipers) bolt right up. You can even bolt up 4th gen rear brakes to a drum brake rear end as well. All you have to do is pull off the drum brake backing plate and when you put the 4th gen brake backing plate on: you have to center it up on the axle and you will notice that the 4 holes in the backing plate will fall on that brake drum flange. You need to trim off some of the top of the flange. Drill the holes, using the backing plate as your template and you will have plenty of metal to spare where the holes don't get to the edge of the flange. Works flawlessly. I have don't both of these situations on both of my third gens. Keeps the cost down and you don't have to mess with the 4th gen rear that doesn't fit. I know there is a lot of literature out there that says it does: but it too wide with the factory wheels.
Beware about the 4th Gen rear axle assembly. I tried that swap and it does not work. The 4th Gen rear axle assembly is wider than the original 3rd Gen rear axle. It will bolt up but your wheels will stick out further from the wheel well.
id-10-t questions.....installing this same system on a trifive with sbc out of a 70 vette....when you dropped the distributor into the motor did you have to get the rotor pointing in the vicinity of #1? Also, how how did you find #1 on the cap to get the wires in the correct order?
You want to rotate the motor over to 15 degrees BTDC before you install the new distributor. You can have the number 1 plug wire pointing in any direction as long as you know where that location is. It normally is pointed forward just towards the drivers side. If the distributor doesn't drop in where you want it you will have to get a long flat head screw driver, sick it in the distributor hole and rotate the oil pump slightly. Until the distributor will drop in in the correct location.
@@FullThrottlePerformanceMike Thank you for the reply. After getting the motor set @ 15 degrees BTDC, when I dropped the distributor back in, the rotor was was pointing almost straight ahead, not towards #1. Do I need the keep adjusting until I get the damn thing pointed more towards #1?
Carful our wires likely wont match. My white was for the guidelines. Also if you cut the wrong one the wires are very thin they dont want to splice back together.
Even with all of the issues, it's a pretty clean car body and rust wise. If it was my first car, I would be happier than a pig in shit! The Aces EFI unit solved a lot of the issues it had with the wiring. Give it a year or so, maybe 2, and this old girl will be brought back from the dead!
Man seeing those Tokicos brought back some serious memories of me being 20 years old with my first prelude, which was also a 4th gen. Loved that thing, lovedddd the stock Recaro-made seats and the digital fuel gauge <3. Was also my first manual. Now I'm on my third prelude, this one is a 5th gen and I've got the whole front end taken apart lol. Great to still see prelude videos coming out
Another Suggestion get a piece of pipe (pipe is stronger then sheet metal) that fits the diameter of the rollers (does not have to be the same size, just same size or bigger) that will fit against the roller. Then weld on a longish piece of flat metal (even angle iron, though heavy) to it that IS square. Angle Iron allows the metal to rest on it and is easier to square up (a trick on that piece of metal is to run a grinder along the inside edge to make it square or recessed - your choice). You know have a reference edge to line up the metal with. Adjusting the rollers to be even can be done with a roller gauge. Roller Gauge: 2 wedge shapes with matching 1/4" marks (yup, like a ruler). Pushing one in gives you a reference line, then move it to the other side and move it to the reference line and they are squared up 2 - If you're going to make one, make 2.
P why would when you put the alternator in you can put the bottom bolt in with no problem but then when you swing the top up to put the top bolt in its off a quarter of an inch
I have yet to dyno my setup....but based on playing around with a 600+ hp c6 Corvette. It should be in the neighborhood of 600hp. I did have a BTR stage 3 blower cam, and ported snout. So that will help a ton on the hp. I hope to get it to the dyno and professional tuned yet this year.
@@FullThrottlePerformanceMike okay I will give it a try because I don’t want to get seat covers just cause those would make the whole feel weird if it’s poor quality
Just pay more attention to studying what are you going to bid for, check the pictures carefully, google for chassis number and find out abt the history, don’t get too excited abt how good it looks, be as critical as possible and buy ONLY from Insurance companies or banks, not from private sellers or what so ever. Good luck 👍
Dude, thanks for the cliff notes to my video! I will add to your list one thing. You have to go inspect the car in person if you are dropping that much money!!!
@@FullThrottlePerformanceMike of course, if you have such an option, totally agree, but if you don’t, careful studying of all the details available on photos and previous listings can give you a chance to avoid such unwanted surprises 🙌
I like your video and thank you for sharing the truth about some of the scams that are out there. There are some research tricks and you shared a few of them to help validate. It's a good sale.
Copart is not the morality police, there were plenty old red flags on the truck. There are other vehicles that are very much more transparent but you have to be Savvy.
Im trying to find the backup cam you used in this video to purchase it on Amazon. I clicked on your amazon link/shop and its not working. Can you send me your Amazon page and the link to the camera? Thanks!
For $15 dollars you don’t have to be a parts changer. Over fill oil with 2-3 quarts and see if oil pressure resumes. If so it’s the oring. Thanks for explaining the process of replacement though.
@@FullThrottlePerformanceMike My harness burned because the turbo caught fire. I bought a car like this from a friend. I tried to fix it on my own. I reconnected all the wires but it won't start. It seems like it doesn't have the power or it doesn't get gas and there's a air hoses that I don't know where they are connected. This is a very important project for me. I want to restore it for my son.
@elmermorales8054 what wires got burned in the fire? Have you checked fuses. You may have to open up the plastic loom and check the burnt wires back and replace a longer section of wire.
Dammit why didn't I see this video 3 days ago when I was sweating my balls off in the engine bay of my boat trying to weasel mine back in?!?! My belt is screaming like a banshee right now. Thank you for this, I'll go back and get it back in alignment in about 10 minutes now as a result!!
This video is amazing. My daughter and I are changing her alternator in our driveway and when the new one didn't fit we were really stuck for a solution. Thank you so much. Worked like a charm.
Great Tip But WAIT A MINUTE!!!!! You Forgot The last most important tip....Neutralize the Acid after the acid cleans the wire!!! Use baking soda in water as a paste or solution to neutralize the vinegar acid or the acid will continue to corrode the wire!!!!
It should work fine, they are designed to move to take the slack out of the alternator. Just watch it as you are doing it. Make sure it's moving as you tighten it.
Im going to let you all now what happened at copart inernet went down was dug up during auction everybody got their vehicles cheap .think about why you cant be a copart when the auction is going on
