Hello, I found this gearbox here and I'm about to do the same on my E36, but here in Brazil, it is quite difficult to find videos and tutorials like yours,. could you share some references of those pieces, like the one you put at the end of the shaft, the bearing model, and what was the flywheel you are using? the original one, or the diesel flywheel?
Super cool to see another Brisbane local building solid e36's. Thanks for the helpful videos too. I just got a 318ti I'll probably see u at some events soon haha
Looks great I was going to use Tamiya paint before seeing you use it 😊 But I don’t see why you didn’t save time and spray from the inside of the lense and just mask the remaining parts off that you don’t want paint on(which is really irrelevant just don’t get paint on my low beam lense and your gucci) I’ve been painting lexan rc car bodies my entire life and on those since they are all clear we typically paint using polycarbonate paints which are flexible since toys crash and it’s resistant to cracking and chipping, therefore we paint the bodies from the inside and that allows for cars flipping and no paint being damaged
What pressure plate did you use? I am looking to swap from a zf320 5 speed to a gs6-37bz 6 speed and retain the single mass flywheel I swapped for the zf320
The 1 2 3 gear ratios are a bit too short when using the DZ. Does it work ? Yes. They are more common than the BZ varinant wich has the correct gear ratios for a petrol engine. This could be countered by using a 2.93 or 3.15 rear diff making the car quick in the lower gears and have good highway upper gears. 👌👌
@@Dildology shorter ratios are a lot harder and more expensive to find in Australia, as the diff was welded I would have needed a new diff entirely. Also as I street drive the car to events it would have been screaming on the highway. The gearbox swap gives me the best of both worlds, and it’s also a much stronger gearbox for when the car sees boost in future 😈
We talked before about the zhp cam swap, never heard back from you about the cam lock tool for TDC positioning. Do you have a print file you can send me?
So I am intrigued by this cam setup but I would like clarify what is being used. The intake cam from a non vanos m50 is being used as the exhaust cam, and a m54b30 intake cam is being used in intake side. Do any m54 vanos components need to be used? Are there any good tutorials on this conversation
It’s pretty cool hey! No other m54 parts are needed. However you will need to machine the m54 cam vanos splines down so it’s shorted. You will also need to machine the m50NV cam gear mounting face down too. There should be some info online in forums and stuff!
@jpbuilds5 so do you have a link for the cam blocks to set timing or if you printed them what would you charge to print a set for me and ship them to me in the States?
Hi from East EU! A few months ago i do the same thing in an e46 m54 320i. Here i buy this gearbox for ~80 eur, the auto driveshaft for ~100 eur, the most costly thing is the new 320d clutch kit for ~200 eur... :D I overfill the gearbox a little to 2L oil, to prevent possible dry run damage (because of tilted position) No oil leaks or any issues at all. Now i have ~1000 km in this setup, no issues at all currently, im very happy with it, the 1-2-3 gear is really impressive with this gearbox and a 3.38 diff. :) The rev limiter kicks in: 1. ~45km/h 2. ~80km/h 3. ~125km/h Cruising in 6th: 2000 rpm ~85km/h 3000 rpm ~130km/h Fuel consumption for the 2.2 engine with 18" wheels is around 8l/100km at 130km/h. BTW I made myself the clutch shaft extender, just glued it to the shaft with epoxy, no need worm bolts, and i do not replace the pilot bearing, at 370.000 km it is in perfect condition.
Is it a problem to fill it with 1.6 liters of oil? like stock. There is some improvement if you put 2 liters. I'm asking you because I have the same box but I just put in 1.6 liters.
@@gerasimoskakkavas I dont know, just wanna prevent possible dry run, because of tilted position. I dont have experience with stock oil level, maybe it's ok just like in normal position. I just wanted to make sure there was no lubricating issues, maybe it's not necessary, but i dont see any drawbacks yet.
Nice job getting those seals out. I'm at that point right now with my 92 325is. Not sure if you can help answer a question for me? Before sending the head to the machine shop for surfacing and cleaning, i removed the cams but left the valve and springs. When it was returned, the guy had removed the small elbow and gasket at the back of the head (heater water inlet?). What i can't figure out is where 3 small washers came from which were returned with the elbow. At first i thought they were washers from the spark plugs because they are similar in size. Any thoughts?
@@jpbuilds5 hey brother. Got my hands on one actually! Is there an upgraded clutch kit you recommend? One that’s holds good torque fora turbo car. If u could link it id appreciate it :)
@@TruBimmer I just use a clutch max stage 5 kit I think (the 6 puk one) seems to hold up to NA abuse, after about 5 events and a year of use it was fine. On my boosted 46 I run a southbend stage 2 enduro clutch and it’s very nice for the street, held up to 355 wheel for over 4 years now
@@jpbuilds5 ok thanks for that I’ve had people tell me that they have different splines and drive shaft are different and some people say it’s plug and play there is not much information online
There’s a guide on pelican about the cams. Usually you can rotate the cam so only the front lobe is pushing down a valve. So you fully tighten that cap down and the rest of the cam just sits in place as there’s no force on it. Done it on an s50 tons of times. No danger of uneven pressure on the cam.
M50 makes 190hp from the factory. Are you saying all your mods made no extra power? How much do you think you gained from the camshaft setup you used over stock camshaft setup that came in a m50?
I would say it made a little bit more power, would have been more noticeable on a 3L bottom end. Hard to tell the difference as I don’t have a dyno I’d estimate 5-10hp absolute max haha
Finally, a really good video covering the meaning behind "cutting rear fenders" is extremely in-depth, and I am looking forward to doing it to my wagon now. What is the tool setup that you used for your angle grinder and Dremmel?
I was gona do this in my e46 but to get it to start you have to rewrite parts of the ecu to get it to start cuz it thinks something is wrong without the trans. Does the e36 not have this issue?
