Thanks for this video. There are many older vehicles that would be candidates for this system. I suspect everyone watching this understands why it is good, even though it is TBI and not MPI, still much better than the old carb and points! Also probably 10 or 20 million of us who hate front wheel drive vehicles!
I had several of those but never a need to work on them... Redone a lot of the Chevy 6 cylinders. Using a 230 head milled down and valve job , on a 250 block was a favorite... Don't know but I'm guessing you can't put a 170 head on a 200. Or a 200 head on a 250... ? I wasn't doing it for power , I was doing it , chasing 40 mi per gallon....
HI, not sure what it is but the housing is billet. I've also locked out the advance and have an MSD programmable with a vacuum sensor control the timing
comp cams makes a top end kit with screw in studs ,guide plates ,push rods and i also use the magnum roller tip rockers . ive built three 455 engines using the comp valvetrain parts and im very happy with the results and its easier to purchase all the matching parts than to piece it together hoping the various manufacturers parts will work well together
@@jackwillson8099 I thought the same about your statement. I dont know how you check your guide clearances but i certainly dont check mine with a dial guage and the valve six hundred thou off the seat. I mic my stems and dial bore gauge my guides or use small bore gauges or what i call ball gauges/mic's. Telescoping. The difference would be an accurate measurement for clearance. Measuring with the valve a certain amount off the seat the shorter the guide the more clearance it would yield. Ive often pulled the valve out and gave it a shake just for a reference to see what condition the guides were in but never to measure accurate clearance.
@@jackwillson8099another reason you shouldnt check clearance with the method shown here is because you wouldnt know where the guides were worn. You really need to check the guides near the top, middle and at the bottom and i prefer to measure the diameter at 3 different points but atleast 2 points 180° from each other with one being on the load side. You really would not want to check a setup that had been previously ran the way it was checked in this video. Its not much of a concern with a new valve/guide/seat that hasnt been run. But checking the way in this video on the non-thrust sides of the guide would not show the wear from a rocker/tip that was pushing and pulling or side loading the stem into the guide.
Huh? Helicoil is going to be stronger than aluminum threads, that's why they used it on the high areas with high load. They cheaped out by NOT adding them for the accesory mounts.
BUT what are the valve sizes?????????? Oldsmobile used 2.07 inch Intake valves and exhaust was around 1.64 inch if I recall correctly!!! This meant Oldsmobiles had amazing flow!!!
Even for a bored and or stroked 455, a 2.07 int. & 1.625 is not enough for serious power production. Considering Pontiac Ram Air valve sizes 2.11/ 1.77 could out flow the Olds BB head dept.
@@johnplato4976 Guys going after serious power production don't buy $1200 speedmaster heads. They spend serious money for the good stuff from places like mondello or rocket racing where you can get bigger valves and huge ports. These are just a somewhat decent set of street heads
You can install them from the bottom. Leave the motor mount bolt out and twist engine as needed. My car was originally a 350, just replace what I had. No problems yet. 445 mount look much different. Either works as long as you have matching ser of 350 or 455 mounts. Btw, using studs with lock washers has provided no loosening or leaks. However, they are tricky to put on
Yeah mine went into safe mode after the blow off stopped working so I assumed it’s somewhere along the lines of the boost pipes. I’ve been looking for ages. Thank you very narrowing down where to start looking.
This is a fantastic video and I am going to check a few things when I get home. I did want to tell you what mine is doing. It’s an R60 and engine light comes on and the turbo kicks off. But if I am running down the road, put the clutch in, and turn the car off and then back on the turbo will start to work again. Any thoughts on that one?? :)
I think you may just saved me from replacing a turbo! I just got a mini s and the guy said the shop told him the turbo was bad, but after looking at the turbo, no shaft play and no wastegate play and wastegate closes with around 7 of vacuum. After looking at the vacuum lines under the manifold, I noticed one of the lines was disconnected, I reinstalled the hose. Still no boost, after finding this video, I realized that the shop or the previous owner has the vacuum lines completely backwards…. 🤦♂️ Time to pull the manifold again and fix it. Thanks for posting this video!!!! Must appreciated!
yet more reasons to not get a Bimmer. I'm a good wrench and keep thinking 'I could work on it', but like Audi and others, you gotta do catortions for every little issue.
My 2003 acura mdx /after long drive over 400 miles ,next morning started up/smell burning,stopped engines and checked noticed burn smell,then re start,but unable to re start,no luck/got new batteries starting up good now got a lot smoke near the alternator battery wire connector.wolla its a bad alternator,notice battery picture on dashboard, but for weeks, there was a maintenance light blinking and disappeared,now I understand why/ cost $340 in a shop my family known,part if i buy at auto zone $79’ hopefully this will help people have the same issue.
