This is 3 Years old at the time of this comment for context. Anyway, 'Print & Cut': I'm not sure if this feature was part of Lightburn when you made this vid (I think it's fairly new)- you should not have to move the Jig itself around at all and you can even just literally drop the jig in at any random angle, though keeping things square is recommended so the laser isn't moving at strange angles on straight lines. Then use the 'Print & Cut' tool to align the laser to two of your targets (ideally opposite corners/as far away from each other as possible). This tool is great for Jigs, picking up a project where you left off, continuing a Job that failed for whatever reason, or also for burns that are larger than your laser bed area, so you do part of the Job, then move the work, use print & cut to align everything and do the other part and repeat as many times as needed until the job is done. My 10 watt cuts out every once in a Blue Moon and this feature has saved some long Jobs. It's a really neat feature that I'm pretty sure wasn't around back when this vid was made. This comment isn't to tell you how to use it, just pointing out the feature/tool- there's a lot of short vids here on YT that explain it much better than I could with just this text- it's a REALLY handy tool that I think every Lightburn user should know about since it's so useful for so many things and opens up the possibility to do larger projects than your laser bed is capable of. Anyway, nice vid, thanks for it :D
At 25:40 you turn on the OUTPUT for the frame. Does that meant the laser is actually ON while it is in the framing movement process? Should it be off and only the SHOW box checked?
That means your min setting is to low. Your co2 laser has a min power where it will not fire. You need to keep upping your min power until your corners show up. You just found your min power percentage of your laser tube
@@computercreationz one more question. I'm totally new to engraving. I'd like to print a few hundred tags/labels for fruit trees and grafts. It doesn't matter to me what material is used, as long as the material is weather and corrosion proof. Do you have suggestions on the best laser and best material to use for this project? Thanks again for your time and assistance.
Pro tip: if you’re just looking for scrap stone to practice engraving on, look up countertop shops near you. The amount of stone they pay to throw away is insane. Plenty of places would happily let you take some pieces of scrap, although it may not be in neat pieces. Putting it on one of their bridge saws and cutting it into squares would be trivial for them though so you could also ask about that.
Thanks for the great video! When you were "snapping" while centering items in Lightburn, was there a command or menu item in the Lightburn porgram that allowed you to perfectly center them?
Got my ass handed to me by 1/2 Sande Plywood from HomeDepot. First sheet cut like butter no problems. Second sheet. I thought it was cut when the second half of it wasnt cut all the way through. When through that same situation 5 times a few sections cut out fine but the rest took me 5 more passes. I'm going to clean the lenses and try again tomorrow. Licking my wounds tonight.
Hey good day Robert. Sooo timely - I just ordered some polished granite for experimenting. Thanks so much for the excellent, detailed tutorial. I did not know about the Painter's Paint trick. Hope you are well and thanks again for sharing many excellent ideas and tutorials. Cheers!
Very good video and it is exactly the problem I'm having BUT, believe it or not, BALSAWOOD. I have a model airplane kit manufacturer and sometimes 6mm balsa, both soft and hard, won't get through with my machine after doing it for several months, the machine now refuses to cut through this material. Is there any solution? Thanks a lot. EDUARDO
make sure your mirrors are clean your focus lens is clean and your laser is in alignment. if all of those check out it could be either your power supply or laser source.
Nice video. 1 correction would be that .PNG "Supports" transparency, but does not mean all .PNG files have transparency. So, where a JPG can not have any transparency, simply saving a file with no transparent portions, will not suddenly add transparency. If your photo has a background, that must first be removed, before saving as a PNG. :)
I recently purchased a Westinghouse Dual fuel 4,000 watt generator. I learned that unlike my old Generac generator, the Westinghouse has a floating neutral. I installed a generator bypass switch which enables me to disconnect the furnace from the main. I also purchased a Neutral ground bonding plug. I typed up a list of instructions, for my wife, on exactly what to do to plug in the furnace. They are step by step including using the bonding plug. So the plug doesn’t get lost/misplaced, I made a label for it and mounted it to the top of the bypass switch box, and I laminated the instructions and taped them to the furnace next to the bypass.
Make sure your soap to objects is on found in the gear icon. Once turned on if you drag your artwork by the center it will snap to the center of the cutout you have on your jig
Thank you I’ve been having problems with that. I’m gonna try today to re-cut the image that I’ve been having problems with so this video helps me make sense of what’s going on. Thank you.
I would like to know what is the minimum height you can get that new grip Galvo down to? Meaning can I get it to sit very low to the bed. I don’t have an open style laser, I use a Thunder which closes. I have a low mount for my Grip 1 and it works great. Lastly, in the video, the gentleman from lens digital said that the original grip was 10,000 rotation steps. In the documents that I have it says 8000 steps. Can you clarify which is correct?
Thanks for your videos its been a great help. What do you think about this unit at a similar price compared to bolt plus? It seems like the bolt is better at engraving and nova is better at cutting, but its hard to understand the threshold - Like will it be noticeably poor quality engravings compared to bolt? Will bolt's cutting ability be slower and induce more burns? Thank you!
If your cutting thicker materials more than 1/4 “ then the nova has the advantage due to its head design directing air flow straight into the cut where the bolt air delivery is angled. The speed difference between the bolt pro series and the nova is quite substantial and it you do allot of engraving the bolt series could save mountains of time
Thanks for your videos its been a great help. What do you think about this unit at a similar price compared to bolt plus? It seems like the bolt is better at engraving and nova is better at cutting, but its hard to understand the threshold - Like will it be noticeably poor quality engravings compared to bolt? Will bolt's cutting ability be slower and induce more burns? Thank you!
if your a hobbest the entry level bolt is fantastic. if your in business and time is money the bolt plus or pro series is worth the extra cost due to the additional features and speed increase you get with the upgraded models.
I wanted to express my thanks for your videos. I got some Staninless/Black/Red from Lonestar Adhesives and have been struggling as I never took the speed above 400 in my material tests. It was resulting in lots of black residue that was very difficult to remove. I'm running a Thunder 35/80 so I just increased power by 20% to get in the ballpark of your 100 watt machine and bang perfect red engraves are coming through. I appreciate you still coming out with new videos for those of still in the glass tube CO2 gantry world.
This video addresses a different issue, your suggestion is the the right way to to it but most people don’t think that far ahead. They run out buy a generator and assume it will work just by plugging it in to your furnace.
You're doing a very good job explaining and no music in the background. Thank you for that, but I need help with the software but the current version. I just got the new Z5-1 Fiber Laser Engraver, Desktop I thought I would start with something basic and not too expensive just to learn the software, hoping eventually it will go to Lightburn. I do have three other. Diode laser 5w 10 w 20w I'm currently using light burn but the software that came with it is easy cad I'm not quite used to that one but since you purchased yours two years ago, the software has changed slightly in the logo was completely different. I'm having a hard time finding someone that can actually explain the software without music in the background and out without just someone pointing a mouse around one location to the next with no explanation. Any suggestions thanks.
LightBurn is sway easier to use once you get the hang of it. the sooner you move to LightBurn the faster you will pick it up. I do one on one classes reach out if you want to learn LightBurn computercreations@charter.net
Clinton, thank you so much for the comments. It’s people like you that take the time to provide your input makes it worth while for me. Your input matters!
