This is the second video that i saw and at the end don’t show the motocicle from the front. I dont know how how much the protector covered, in case of accident.
@@stubrown6903 press the space bar to pause. I’m not good at speaking, too many times I listen to others and I don’t understand their words (the way they are facing etc). Other people don’t have English as their first language, they may not understand either. (Also) I play music when I’m working on my bikes. I dislike turning it down to try to hear someone. This is my reasons.
Hello frend, hope this question finds you well, could you please tell me: Does adding a Switch to turn off the battery, completely solve every battery issue related to drainage over time? I'm not very experienced but My solution so far is to carry a car battery on my side trunk lol. after a minute or two the battery revives But this is not optimal and it's hurting my battery lifetime.. my best guess is to add a interruptor on the wire to the positive pole of the battery, BECAUSE: it does turn On instantly when Completely charged separatedly.
@@waitchusx Any of the things will help: 1) you can disconnect the black battery wire after you ride. the interruption doesn’t have to be the positive pole. 2) or pull the number 1 fuse from the fuse box. 3) or Some people have added switches to the battery. The fix I show you will stop the drain. 4) or Hitchcock’s sells a cable that will do the same thing I showed in the video. The Hitchcock’s cable or the fix in the video will take away the drain from the battery.
@@whitetonguemotorcycling I have a lot more video but it was useless when the project went no where. I’m out of the country for a few months. My son will ride it home when it’s ready.
Thank you! It’s tough to consider the steps between instructions, consider “common tools” I have pneumatics and fancy equipment and how to breakdown sections in parts someone can follow. Jumping around helps no one.
I am looking into buying a cam and my first choice was the Tec, but they stopped answering my e-mails in mid stream. So now I am looking at Hitchcock's stage two cam. It appears to be a billet build as I do not see a decompressor in the picture. I am having problems with popping and stalling at idle and am changing the valves and hoping to eliminate the decompressor. Is this vid using data from the Hitchcocks stage one cam?
Hitchcock’s is from billet now, they don’t have the decompressor anymore. please go to their website for updated information. If you’re having idle issues. 1) adjust the TPS to .67 v. 2) replace the spark plug with iridium 3) eliminate the parasitic draw. I have videos on all three. “Follow on maintenance” video in the 462cc will show how to adjust the TPS. Adjust to .67v not .50v. Hitchcock’s sells an iridium plug and parasitic draw harness (I have a DIY video too). Worth every penny.
@@Mytwistedvoices I did all that with the help of On Two Wheels Ben, eliminated the Euro stuff as well. Added the Fuel-X pro and no real change to the stalling. The bike still pops and backfires through the intake and dies, always around idle. A mechanic who works on RE bikes said it sounds to him like a valve not seating right, or the cam decompressor failing. I figured I might as well go for 30hp if I am going to have to pull the head anyways.
@@Mytwistedvoices I also saw no real specs that I could use to justify buying the Kent cam over the cheaper and more popular Tec cam. I would like to be sold on the Kent cam with dyno charts and such. My guess is that the two cams are the same except for price and that is why Hitchcock's doesn't give technical data. They are selling on what is called in marketing, prestige pricing. The name brand and the generic may be identical in all ways but some people want the prestige of having the most expensive. I have done business with Hitchcock's and they are great, but I told them I was a value based customer. Sell me on why I should buy the Kent over the Tec. It will be interesting to see if they respond and how.
@@danielben-avraham1539 sounds like you did your homework with the failing camshaft. I how you get the valve situation straightened out. It isn’t hard to use valve grinding compound to lip the valve, just takes a little time and tools. GL.
Congrats on these videos. I am by no means a mechanic. I've always been better at breaking things than fixing them.... But I'd never have gotten the job started without these posts. Sadly, when I got the head off I found a big chunk missing off the side of the piston, so I now have to strip down the whole engine to clean it out. This will feel like an ancient explorer going off the map without your videos. Well done. Excellent work.
Good Luck with your project! There is a lot of good feed back with this video series. I am curious how your piston lost a huge chunk of metal? What state are you living in?
In the sunny state of Hertfordshire (said with a degree of irony since the sky here is rarely anything but grey..) in the UK. My own fault. I ran it dry through poor maintenance, so I figured I might as well upgrade if I had to take the head off anyway... I'd have attached had a pic if I could, but it looked like someone had taken a bite out of the side of the piston. Couldn't see any bits with an endoscope, so I guess I just have to bite the bullet and start stripping. A cautionary tale for any that don't take routine maintenance seriously enough..
Writing a script increases the time. I found that people follow along in their garages or outdoors. I found that some important words are hard to hear, the words I put are large and to the point.
@@Mytwistedvoices it's plugged on the speedometer, which is plugged on battery. The rpm, turn lights and other stuff works perfectly, but the sensor doesn't work properly, I tested passing the magnets in front of it, and the speed doesn't change. The sensor light is always on.
@@flamelacacio8150 sorry, I miss understood. Two wires provide power the other is for sensing. Open the connector and make sure there isn’t a bent pin. Check the sensor for plastic or covering.
Thank you for the great video! I was dreading re-installing my battery after having it on a tender all winter - now I'm ready to jump in and get it done after work today!
Do this again, (I saw you. I went to Facebook and messenger you but it said you didn’t have messenger) Try to join “Triumph Trident 660” on Facebook. I’m a moderator there. But there are resources at the Himalayan site. Just answer the questions with “looking for mtv on all the questions “… this time I’ll accept. My bad we will get this right.
Can you help me? When I start up the menu settings of my speedometer, it says directly C2871. I can't enter a code or anything else. I have the version where you can add the speedo cable on the back of the sensor.
Thank you for the feedback! I’ll keep doing Himalayan videos. The next series will be the sidecar and the neck bearings lube. If you install this brake Let me know how you like it!
The first videos had voice. But vocal parts were scripted and added time. Someone told me he puts his laptop in the garage, turns up the music and reads my videos. So, words are large and the sound is off.
Good on you for putting your money into trying it out. I simply put the softest pads in that I could but the braking is still weak. I ride two up and am touring Europe this year so if your genius idea works I would be the first to scream from the roof tops and steal your idea!!!
I got the idea from online groups. But they were so vague. The Street 750 had a couple of versions of the brake calipers. Even then some sellers didn’t put a year of the caliper or the part number… so I put it together over a couple of months.
Hi , as a Snap On Tools dealer for thirty years , I congratulate you on your tool choice BUT , please use a breaker bar to undo tight fittings (this will help protect the teeth on the ratchet gear , and save you from slipping and hurting yourself ) The screwdiver is useless as a chisel as the nylon handle absorbs the impact and results in less power delivered to the work piece , and you will eventually spoil the tip on your screwdriver , The clue isin the name , screwdriver for driving screws , chisel for chiseling , sorry about the sarcasm but after having "FAULTY" tools waived in my face for thirty years , it gets tiring , all the best
The screw driver was merely moving the thin retaining washer into place, incorrectly using it yes but substantial damage abuse, no. The face of the blade was not “cutting “ into anything. And the punch locked the washer into place, proper tool. I actually have pry bars to pry into place but this isn’t thick material. Second, breaker bars are nice on 10+ year old rusty vehicles when the bolt has moved for a long time. Just used one in the replacement of the rotor on a 2012 Ford. But the nuts on the bike are have not succumbed to corrosion and the torque value of loosening the nut should be within the ratchets ability to move it. If the nut was loose, why would you sell a long expensive ratchet when literally anything should work. Not saying you’re wrong but I feel the resistance of the nut is less than the ratchet’s ability to move it. I’m not standing on it, I’m applying reasonable force with my hand/arm. If I was using my foot or a ratchet strap… that’s improper. 30+ year aircraft mechanic. The ratchet is upwards of 20 years old without fail. (That’s why I have snap-on, there is value in the tools).
I’m have finished filming a video where i actually use a chisel this time to stake the retainers. The material is thicker and warranted a different tool.
Just used this video to install my PCV on my Himalayan . I will be using your big bore kit videos too in the near future .Many , many thanks for making them , they are a great help to everyone .atb
It’s a person choice but I think it is worth it. The big bore gives more off the line power. The second gear becomes a launch gear to hire speeds. In turn the low end torque becomes a benefit to off roading in the lower gears. The Hitchcock’s kit is reliable and robust. The engine has not overheated or had an issues. I wanted to put an aftermarket pipe and an auto tuner to the motorcycle, but it runs like a 1930’s sewing machine. That content was scrapped.
I have had a lot of feed back from the content posted and it seems many riders are very happy with the up grade. Of course a good Hitcock's camshaft or TEC camshaft will add to the top end.
I saw some other reviews and the left side doesn't stick out as much compared to the right. I'm thinking whether or not I should get the Triumph or the one from EvoTech. Do you notice any difference on both sides? Thanks a lot!
They don’t need to match, they have to be futher than the highest point on each side. I definitely don’t want them unnecessarily wider than they need to be. I trailer with another bike. Honestly, I didn’t even notice that they might be different.
