I don't get it. You just built the PAX wardrobes without adding or customizing anything. A built-in look would've been impressive, but this is just the standard IKEA furniture directly on the floor. The corners look bad and hard to access.
Mr. Bee, you have provided very valuable detailed measurements for the first timers who haven’t bought the cabinets or railings to measure and are in the planning phase.
Ikea is quick to supply, doors arnt too bad, fitted three of these kitchens not too many the tiny screws they give for the rail are a worry, small details like built in gasket to sinks with tap reinforcement for a neat $130 sink impress me
As a retired structural engineer and builder, I would recommend not using drywall anchors. Over time, they will come loose, due to the weakness of the drywall. Just find the studs and screw into those. A screw going into wood at 16" o.c. is much stronger than an anchor going into drywall at 12" o.c. I install blocking for the base and uppers, and use 1 3/4" No. 9 flooring screws so they don't hit plumbing or electrical. Cheers from Canada.
The enhet is a simpler and more affordable system. I recommend getting a laser level and follow the methods of this video to measure floor and ceiling. For base cabinets set the laser level where u’d have the top of the cabinet and set all to the same. For upper cabinets u can even put a straight piece of wood where the bottom of them are and put the laser on that to set them on there until screwing on the wall to make it easier. Hope this helps
@@tbeeskitchens railing system would’ve been nice on the Enhet. I already installed them. I used the studs to mount them but I had to drill in the back board to hold them and toggle bolts.
Hello, question: how much does the rail stick out from the wall? The space between wall. Do the ikea cabnets sit snug to wall or is there a small space.
I did enjoy your video, but I don't think it a good idea to rely on drywall anchors to secure kitchen cabinets, nor to rotate the sliding level adjusters so that the elongated holes are vertical. If you look at how drywall is secured to the studs, it's held in place by a few #6 screws, there is no way you should rely on those to support kitchen cabinets. Find the studs and screw into those for cabinet rail support. If you rotate the level adjusters so that the elongated holes are vertical, this reduces the amount of friction available to prevent the levelers from moving. Your video is an example of what I wouldn't do to fasten kitchen rails, and if you're doing what you do for other people, eventually, someone is going to get hurt, and they're going to come after you.
Thank you for creating this video. I don’t do daily rehabbing, so videos are super helpful. Feedback: It would be helpful if to see the exact tools down in the description. Other than that thx!
This is by far the best instructional video for these rails. Please continue to make videos as this was really excellent and so helpful - you should continue :-) Thanks so much
