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Thanks for all the complaints guys! I got this for $25 b/c of the toxic reputation. Bought 4 ft of Gates hose and some 8mm clamps at NAPA and I'm good to go. The can itself is actually quite good with no restriction. Use teflon tape on the drain for peace of mind, better than unscrewing the cans.
I bought mine from you open box - it came w/o the red O-ring or instructions, and so I relied on this video for installation. Big mistake. He briefly flashes a pic of the instruction sheet at the 4:00 mark, which if read online says very clearly to remove all the components from the factory module before installing the GFB piston & spring. At the 10:00 mark you see he left the internal green factory O-ring intact, so I did as well - hello boost leak. I had to drop my new Titan and start over by following the instructions online. Fixed.
Come on guys, that's a totally Jerry rigged set up. That pipe isn't even tight on that little stub on the muffler. It's going to leak. Just go to a muffler shop and have it correctly made and welded for about the same price as this garbage.
I bought the AFE Sway-away 2.5 coil overs with external bipasses for the front and 2.0 piggyback bi-passes on the rear for my 2012 f-150 along with the extreme offroad upper control arms and 3 inch leveling spacers. i love them. Those ones are really nice.
Following up on other comments on the screwed up bracket hole. Compare 12:21 13:37 14:20 there is definitely something sketchy going on. The template used at 12:21 is different than 13:37. At 13:37 the template looks aligned and punched correctly. But you can't tell where the edge of the bracket is relative to the desired hole. Then at 14:20 way too close to the edge compared to the desired location on template at 13:37 . The center of the final hole location also looks higher relative to the corner shown on the template at 12:21. That seems a huge issue for a structural modification.
Here from Rural Detroit Motown there are still me Hypnotizing RAPTORS around Here. I Gooseneck them, Rams & Camaros. When the Protégés hit the Trial Local Roads … Wow. Ford’s are RUSTING OUT for a decade now. They’re dropping the Ball & I worked there. Things Change.
You don’t have to pull vacuum to pull out the CV. It just slides off engaged or not - he even proves that when he shows you how it works. Not sure why he spent so much time on showing this. Completely unnecessary. I’ve done 100 IWE vacuum hubs on these Fords - never pulled vacuum.
I can probably assume the wire for the turn signal connects to the existing turn signal, which is easy enough to figure out. But I’m not sure about the other. Will any live wire do? Which existing connector is being tapped? Does it matter?
If anyone has the same question I’ll answer mine: The blue wire is for the turn signal and it connects to the white LED. This one you test for a signal that flashes when you have your turn signal on. For me, this was connected to my existing harness which connects to the mirror. The brown wire is for the daytime running lights. To test which one to connect to, find a wire which is always hot. It probably won’t matter which harness. Note that some connections likely have higher voltage, so make sure to compare the brightness of the test light and use the wire which makes the light the brightest (assuming you want the best looking lights 😉). I’ve had issues with this one in my passenger side, not exactly sure what’s going on yet. The running light on this side seems to only work when plugged into the pin for the turn signal.
I’m stuck on the finalizing tune portion I’ve let it sit for almost an hour get nothing I’ve updated and have tried multiple times any suggestions or a solution
